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HALL fault on SVMC 48080

Posted: Mar 29 2021 5:39am
by Kimovitzh
Hi all

I've bought a Sabvoton SVMC48080 from the guys at QS motor (siaecosys).
When I connect a QS 205 35H to it and do the hall angel test I get HALL fault.
If I turn the wheel by hand, I get HALL fault.
- the controller sees all hall sensores in the HALL status in the windows app.

Now, if I connect my SVMC 72150 and do any of the before mentioned acts, nothing. Works just fine.
So motor is good.

Double checked the wiring.
separated hall wires from phase wires.
- no help.

Tried to email my sales contact at siaecosys, answered all the questions, send all the screenshots and now I'm just ghosted.
No answers.

Anyone with any ideas what to do next? :cry:

Re: HALL fault on SVMC 48080

Posted: Mar 30 2021 4:32pm
by Kimovitzh
No one have any idea?

Guess that's why QS is ghosting me as well :cry:

Re: HALL fault on SVMC 48080

Posted: Apr 07 2021 9:56pm
by amberwolf
The most likely problem is a connection between controller and motor, probably in the controller's connection or wiring, since the other controller does work, eliminating the motor side connector and wiring.

It could be a contact in connector that is not seated, so it pushes back out of the connector as it is plugged in. It could be contacts taht are contaminated or corroded/oxidized, or that are not crimped correclty (or at all) to the wires. Could be a broken wire anywhere from the crimp to the solder joint inside the ocntroller at it's circuit board. Could be a bad or missing pullup resistor on the controller board, on the hall signal line. Could be no voltage to power the halls from the controller (or insufficient). Possibly other things, but those are a start.

You may not see most of these visually, and may have to do electrical testing to find out.

Hook up motor and controller and battery, and switch system on. Manually turning wheel, check for toggling voltage just above 0v to just below 5v on each hall signal, black lead of meter on hall ground on *motor* side of connector, red lead on each hall signal in turn on *motor* side of connector (to eliminate the connector). Any voltage different than that, note in the thread.

A multimeter on continuity (wiht no battery on controller) can check from the back of the motor hall connector to the inside of the controller for each wire (to eliminate the connector itself, you have to check from the motor side). Should be nearly 0 ohms; anything higher note here in the thread.

Next most likely is if the controller has an option for 60 degree vs 120 degree halls--almost all motors are 120. Use whatever setting worked in the other controller.