Looking for a kit match for a particular battery

Lostsailor

100 µW
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Messages
8
Hi,
I know I probably should have done more research before buying this battery I have, but well, I have it would really like to find SOME ebike conversion kit it will work with. I mean the condition of the battery is brand new and I'd hate to think it's of no use.
Anyway it's branded with the "Blix" logo on the side of the case (looks like a caricature of a lower case "b").
It says it's 48v 10ah and also has a separate line on the label that says 18a.
All I see on eBay in 48v rear hub kits claiming 1000w and all the descriptions indicate they require a 12ah or greater battery. Is that true?
And if it is the case, can anyone recommend a rear hub conversion kit that will work with the battery I described?
Looking for a product link preferably.
Thanks
Tom
 
Assuming the battery is good, then you want a kit with a controller that's rated at 18A continuous or less. Usually a controller of that size would come with a 500W kit, so search on that and pay attention to the specs on the controllers.
 
Another option would be to limit a typical "1000w kit" controller. Some old style cheaper kits have a three speed switch in them, which essentially limits amps in the lower two speeds. More sophisticated more recent design kits have displays, which usually give you 5 or more power choice settings.

Just run your new battery with one of those, but just avoid using the higher power settings.

If you have a wattmeter display added to a kit, you can just use the throttle carefully, Making sure you keep your amps down to around 10 amps or less as much as possible. With 48v kits, 10 amps still gets you a solid 500w, which should mean about a 20 mph cruise speed.

Even with a cheap, naked kit, there are still options. Like avoid giving it full throttle starting up, and keep your speed at 20 mph or less. If you want the full potential of a typical 48v 30 amps controller found in the 1000w kits, with 30 mph speed, you should get a second battery to parallel with your first one, so you have 20 ah of capacity.

It is also possible to slow down a 30 amps controller, by snipping one of the shunts inside. Usually there are two or three shunts, and cutting out a piece of one of three, would make a 30 amps controller into a 20 amps.

Or you could just get a different controller, 48v 15 amps, and use it with any motor from a 36v kit.
 
Lostsailor said:
And if it is the case, can anyone recommend a rear hub conversion kit that will work with the battery I described?
Looking for a product link preferably.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-36V-17A-Controller-For-250W-350W-Brushless-Motor-Ebike-Electric-Bicycle/353290930607

Combine one of these with one of the surplus Jump bike motors and a KT display, and you have a superb system for the money.

https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/26-bafang-dc36v-sturmey-archer-rx-rd3-electric-bike-wheel-with-tire-brake

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KT-LCD3-Display-Electric-Wheel-24V-36V-48V-Intelligent-E-Bike-Panel/332849482230

You'll also need a throttle and maybe a 9 pin motor extension cable.
 
E-HP said:
Assuming the battery is good, then you want a kit with a controller that's rated at 18A continuous or less. Usually a controller of that size would come with a 500W kit, so search on that and pay attention to the specs on the controllers.

Wow... Thanks... I had focused last night on a kit with the following specs. And if I read you right, I should be in okay shape with this kit after all. Feel free to slap me in the head if I'm mistaken... Also those surplus kits @36v will prime my next project, which is to build a short bike for my daughter for zipping around the Fenway Five campuses in Boston when she returns in the fall. Those prices make that a sooner rather than later event. Thanks!
Oh, and the battery I got was actually from someone I know, who thought he was going to be replacing the battery, ordered it and had his old bike stolen while he awaited delivery. It's brand new and is in pristine shape. So, I gave that going for me
Thanks again... And here's the specs on the kit I now intend to buy:
Item Specifics:
Voltage:48V
Wattage:500W
Motor Type:Rear wheel motor 500W D/DC type.
Display:Bafang Display C951/C965/850C/C18/500C/750C/860C---opational
Wheel size:20"/26"/27.5"/700C
Controller Specification:
Voltage: 48V
Current: 18 ± 1A:

Peace,
Tom
 
Scratch the plan above.... the eBay seller pulled the kit, and re-lisrted the kit at $100 more. Eff them.
Going with Chalo's suggestion of the surplus jump bike wheel suggestion, with the separate controller and screen.
I hope nobody minds, but I may be back with follow up questions during the buil.
Thanks to all of you. Learned a lot from you guys.
 
Chalo said:
Lostsailor said:
And if it is the case, can anyone recommend a rear hub conversion kit that will work with the battery I described?
Looking for a product link preferably.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-36V-17A-Controller-For-250W-350W-Brushless-Motor-Ebike-Electric-Bicycle/353290930607

Combine one of these with one of the surplus Jump bike motors and a KT display, and you have a superb system for the money.

https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/26-bafang-dc36v-sturmey-archer-rx-rd3-electric-bike-wheel-with-tire-brake

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KT-LCD3-Display-Electric-Wheel-24V-36V-48V-Intelligent-E-Bike-Panel/332849482230

You'll also need a throttle and maybe a 9 pin motor extension cable.

Do I set this up as a front wheel motor? Or is it a deal where put it on the real axle and move the existing cassette from the donor bike (a Fuji mx-550)?
Also, the extension motor controller, should I get the kind with the 9pin plug at both ends, or 9pin at the motor side and separate wires at the controller end?
Also 36v throttle as opposed to a 48v throttle?
Peace,
TOM
 
Chalo,
I noticed the controller supports PAS and 2 "ebrake" connectors. Should I also grab a cadence sensor and motor interrupt brake handles?
Part recommendations, if so?
Peace,
Tom
 
Do I set this up as a front wheel motor? Or is it a deal where put it on the real axle and move the existing cassette from the donor bike (a Fuji mx-550)?
The "Jump" recycled wheel/motor ASM is disc brake only which eliminates the Fuji.
It's not much of a donor bike anyway.
The Bafang SWX02 10 Turn motor in the Jump wheel is a fast motor, figure around 26 to 27 mph top speed on a 48V pack, way faster than a skinny road tire, non-suspension, v-brake bike wants to go. I know, I did a "Jump" build.
The Jump wheel, spokes, tire and motor turned out to be very high quality in like new cond., a smoking deal!
I rode it for a while as a frt. mount, but decided I wanted it on the back, so I bought a new SWX02 rear motor only and swapped the motor core into the Jump wheel. It's 13 Turn motor, a little slower, about 25 mph and it turned out really nice.
The best hub motor/wheel combo I've used in 10 years of building hub motor ebikes.
Here's some threads;
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=110408&p=1617839&hilit=bafang#p1617839
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=111052&p=1627779&hilit=bafang#p1627779
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=111160&p=1629246&hilit=bafang#p1629246
 
I cant remove the rotor and use it?
Dude I ordered it.
If it fits in the dropouts is going to be used.
If your just saying the barrier is the brakes, I'll find a way around it. But I already clicked the 'checkout buttons. And this stuff is on order.
Peace,
Tom
 
motomech said:
Do I set this up as a front wheel motor? Or is it a deal where put it on the real axle and move the existing cassette from the donor bike (a Fuji mx-550)?
The "Jump" recycled wheel/motor ASM is disc brake only which eliminates the Fuji.
It's not much of a donor bike anyway.
The Bafang SWX02 10 Turn motor in the Jump wheel is a fast motor, figure around 26 to 27 mph top speed on a 48V pack, way faster than a skinny road tire, non-suspension, v-brake bike wants to go. I know, I did a "Jump" build.
The Jump wheel, spokes, tire and motor turned out to be very high quality in like new cond., a smoking deal!
I rode it for a while as a frt. mount, but decided I wanted it on the back, so I bought a new SWX02 rear motor only and swapped the motor core into the Jump wheel. It's 13 Turn motor, a little slower, about 25 mph and it turned out really nice.
The best hub motor/wheel combo I've used in 10 years of building hub motor ebikes.
Here's some threads;
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=110408&p=1617839&hilit=bafang#p1617839
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=111052&p=1627779&hilit=bafang#p1627779
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=111160&p=1629246&hilit=bafang#p1629246


Thanks for the links BTW ... I'm learning quite a bit.
And please, let me qualify my level of experience so we're clear on how far beyond your (and I'm sure most folks here to varying degrees ). I was casually, I dunno, messing with the concept for quite a while using rewired alternators and other alternative paths during the turn of the century, but got out before serious ebike technology started to really before there was a strong initiative widely taking place around me. But after grabbing an early SLA powered Mongoose with a separately geared rear wheel motor. I was disappointed and bailed. It took a stroke last year, for me to renew my interest I was actually going to pull the trigger on a mid drive Sondors or a Biktrix juggernaut duo, but then saw all the DIY, and thought I'd experiment. Big learning curve for me. And I totally love that folks like all of you have established such and amazing knowledge base and community. And I plan on benefiting from you guys and all your individual and collective experience.
So I need to scrap the Fuji? Can you recommend a bike that's fairly common and relatively inexpensive bike to switch to for the materials I am already committed to?
 
So I need to scrap the Fuji?
Nobody said that, it still a bicycle. For a mini-motor on 36 Volts, it would be ok for an "assist bike w/ a top speed around 20mph.
The reason it won't work is the Jump whl. is not v-brk. compatible, it doesn't present a flat side for the pads to work on.
At 3.6 Kg., the Bafang SWX02 falls in the middle of geared motors and as I mentioned it will hit 27 mph on 48V full speed, but can be limited down by the controller. A decent set of suspension forks might be nice to take the sting out of the hits at speeds in the 20's mph.
At the very least, I would look for a decent 26" "hardtail" mountain bike. 26" whl.s have fallen out of favor these days on mountain bikes and depending on where you live, there should be some deals in your local Craigslist.
Bike island is always a good place to look for deals on bikes.;
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=List&SubCategoryNew=Bikes:%20Mountain%20with%2026%20inch%20Wheels
 
motomech said:
So I need to scrap the Fuji?
Nobody said that, it still a bicycle. For a mini-motor on 36 Volts, it would be ok for an "assist bike w/ a top speed around 20mph.
The reason it won't work is the Jump whl. is not v-brk. compatible, it doesn't present a flat side for the pads to work on.

Not arguing that anyone did say that. I'm playing catch up from research that started on YouTube where the explanations being given are not of the quality or detail I'm getting opinion here. And with that said, thanks for providing more useful detail. I wish I'd been more detailed in my initial description. That woulda helped.

At 3.6 Kg., the Bafang SWX02 falls in the middle of geared motors and as I mentioned it will hit 27 mph on 48V full speed, but can be limited down by the controller. A decent set of suspension forks might be nice to take the sting out of the hits at speeds in the 20's mph.
At the very least, I would look for a decent 26" "hardtail" mountain bike. 26" whl.s have fallen out of favor these days on mountain bikes and depending on where you live, there should be some deals in your local Craigslist.
Bike island is always a good place to look for deals on bikes.;
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=List&SubCategoryNew=Bikes:%20Mountain%20with%2026%20inch%20Wheels
So I think, from things that you and other folks have said, that if I get a bike that has support for disc brakes, and at least a front suspension fork, I should have a workable foundation.
Can I ask two more questions?
I did as much research as was available to me about the controller Chalo guided me to and it indicates it supports PAS. Does that mean I can add a cadence sensor module to the crank and take advantage of it with this front wheel motor? Also, he suggested a throttle. Should I get a throttle favoring the voltage of the battery, or the controller (48/36)?
Combine one of these with one of the surplus Jump bike motors and a KT display, and you have a superb system for the money.

https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/pr ... tire-brake

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KT-LCD3-Displa ... 2849482230

You'll also need a throttle and maybe a 9 pin motor extension cable.

Post Script question... I have paid for the motor/wheel component, but I just checked eBay and I haven't actually completed the checkout, so the other parts still sit in my cart. So I can change my selections if I need to, and am hoping that I can get feedback as to anything I need to add/subtract/ or substitute from the above items to get to the finish line on this project?
 
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