What retailers / OEMs use the Lishui LD-LS83 controller?

Volvofan

100 mW
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
39
Location
MA
See this one here:
https://www.lsdzs.com/ls_product/showproduct.php?lang=en&id=137

It's 48V nominal, 25A peak, sinewave, has the connectors I need, and is compact enough to fit in a very space-constrained application I have.

The only problem? I can't find where to buy it! Any ideas?

Thanks,

-Jon
 
Anyone have any ideas on this?

Definitely looking for this specific controller for two reasons:

1) Small enough to fit in existing 36v controller’s location
2) I’ve already climbed the learning curve re: re-flashing Lishui controllers with open source firmware and I like the flexibility that provides (ie removing speed limit, display protocol of choice).

Thanks,

-Jon
 
Volvofan said:
Anyone have any ideas on this?

Definitely looking for this specific controller for two reasons:

1) Small enough to fit in existing 36v controller’s location
2) I’ve already climbed the learning curve re: re-flashing Lishui controllers with open source firmware and I like the flexibility that provides (ie removing speed limit, display protocol of choice).

Thanks,

-Jon

Get this controller instead. Much much powerful than the 6 fet, and still able to fit into super tight spaces. Link to aliexpress shop right a the top of the post.
 
Thanks! That looks like a great controller, but it’s still about an inch too long and a bit too tall to tuck into the space I have to work with (inside a carbon frame downtube, above the battery almost where it meets the top tube… and mashed in there with all the wiring, too). The height I could work with, but the length is VERY constrained.

I’ll give it another, closer look when/if I decide to do the 48v conversion this winter. Thank you!

-Jon
 
KT-22a w/waterproof connectors maybe? It has 9 mosfets and you don't need anything fancy to set up the many available parameters. There's a shorter version called a 17a that is quite a bit shorter but uses 6 mosfets. Both have great options for displays.

Biggest feature (IMHO) is KT gives you what they call "imitation torque control" - which is chinglish for power based PAS. This allows you to set a customizable amount of power (assist), the amount being based on your PAS level. This amount does not change no matter your speed.

I've used both of these (22a and 17a) on installs similar to what you are describing and they work out really well. The 22a is able to supply nearly 1000w at wide open throttle.....
A 500w motor will really scoot when fed that kind of power for a few seconds.....
 
AHicks said:
KT-22a w/waterproof connectors maybe? It has 9 mosfets and you don't need anything fancy to set up the many available parameters. There's a shorter version called a 17a that is quite a bit shorter but uses 6 mosfets. Both have great options for displays.

Biggest feature (IMHO) is KT gives you what they call "imitation torque control" - which is chinglish for power based PAS. This allows you to set a customizable amount of power (assist), the amount being based on your PAS level. This amount does not change no matter your speed.

I've used both of these (22a and 17a) on installs similar to what you are describing and they work out really well. The 22a is able to supply nearly 1000w at wide open throttle.....
A 500w motor will really scoot when fed that kind of power for a few seconds.....

Thanks for that reply! I do like the Lishui controller but if the KT17A is capable of true FOC control (or is at least sinusoidal) then maybe that would do the trick. It’s the right size, is capable of 48V, and my display is a Kunteng LCD9, so it ought to be compatible out of the box :) Another option on the table.

-Jon
 
Jon,
Regarding either the 17a, or the 22a, I can tell you that they are dead silent, and there is no motor noise. This would be inside an alum. tube though. I pack the wiring in pretty tightly to keep the controller from rattling around, as well as to help it transfer as much heat as possible to the bike's down tube.

Point being, packed into a carbon fiber tube, I'm not sure about the controller's ability to get rid of any heat build up? Just a thought. -Al
 
AHicks said:
Jon,
Regarding either the 17a, or the 22a, I can tell you that they are dead silent, and there is no motor noise. This would be inside an alum. tube though. I pack the wiring in pretty tightly to keep the controller from rattling around, as well as to help it transfer as much heat as possible to the bike's down tube.

Point being, packed into a carbon fiber tube, I'm not sure about the controller's ability to get rid of any heat build up? Just a thought. -Al

It takes quite a bit of poking, prodding, and twisting to get the current harness to snug up into the same cavity that the controller goes into… definitely not a lot of space left over for things to rattle around once it’s all in there!

As for heat dissipation, I have thought of that as well. Current controller is rated at 36v15A and its aluminum shell gets a little warm to the touch… but not scorching hot. I have never had any problems running wide open throttle for a couple miles at a time on summer days. Hopefully another couple of amps wouldn’t be a deal-breaker, even at a higher voltage. Let’s say these controllers are 90%-95% efficient. 36v x 15a = 540W; 48v x 17a = 816W; 816 - 540 = 276W, 95-90% efficient means basically another 15-30W or so of heat inside that enclosed carbon tube. That doesn’t sound unbearable, but I guess there’s one way to find out :)
 
AHicks said:
Jon,
Regarding either the 17a, or the 22a, I can tell you that they are dead silent, and there is no motor noise. This would be inside an alum. tube though. I pack the wiring in pretty tightly to keep the controller from rattling around, as well as to help it transfer as much heat as possible to the bike's down tube.

Point being, packed into a carbon fiber tube, I'm not sure about the controller's ability to get rid of any heat build up? Just a thought. -Al

This: not a good idea to cramp a controller inside a carbon frame. Reason is no so much temp, but rather crack propagation. The inside of carbon frame has rarely a smooth surface and is prone to punctures.
If you do so, make sure to remove any sharp edges and pot / fasten that controller very tightly. I would still recommend putting the controller somewhere with easy access and better airflow. MOSFET are just as good as their cooling is.

Also, no KT controller is FOC capable, and while their sine wave approximation works well for most hub motors, it's not nearly as smooth a true foc from a lishui controller with an stm32 chip, at least from my experience.
 
qwerkus said:
This: not a good idea to cramp a controller inside a carbon frame. Reason is no so much temp, but rather crack propagation. The inside of carbon frame has rarely a smooth surface and is prone to punctures.
If you do so, make sure to remove any sharp edges and pot / fasten that controller very tightly. I would still recommend putting the controller somewhere with easy access and better airflow. MOSFET are just as good as their cooling is.

Also, no KT controller is FOC capable, and while their sine wave approximation works well for most hub motors, it's not nearly as smooth a true foc from a lishui controller with an stm32 chip, at least from my experience.

More good points, thanks for the insight!

This carbon frame is REALLY beefy, but I will take care with its insides nonetheless, as you caution. I very much appreciate a nice, clean-looking, “bike-like” frame without a lot of component bags or bolt-ons that scream “Frankencycle!!!”, so I’ll likely stick with stock location until the magic smoke comes out. When/if that happens, I’ll be freed from the fetters of size constraints, and will find a way to get a nice Lishui-based controller out in the breeze. I currently have a small project box that contains my DC converters and a couple lighting control switches sitting on my top tube just behind the handle bars… I suppose I could put those into the space vacated by the controller and place the controller on the top tube instead… at least then it’s a “zero sum game.”

Anyhow, all pipe dreaming at the moment until I make the 48v leap. For now, I intend to give it a season with the new IGH, carbon belt drive conversion, open source firmware, and new display to ensure that’s all working as intended. Then, a new 48v battery and controller is “phase 2” and perhaps a dual motor configuration (with a TDCM IGH in the rear wheel) shall be “phase 3” in a couple years 😈
 
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