How to design a turbo boost

MarkJohnston

10 kW
Joined
Mar 25, 2021
Messages
620
Hello,

I want to build a small and lightweight but high voltage battery. The point of this battery would be to over volt the motor temporarily to get a ton of speed i.e. 50 mph just for 5 or 10 minutes.

I have two batteries 54.6 10 amps that are linked in parallel. The turbo boost would be on an on off switch maybe directly linked to the motor. I am planning on re wiring the axle because of a pre exisiting damage/cut to the axle wiring. So maybe I could custom build battery wiring directly to the motor to deliver high voltage so the CONTROLLER DOESN'T GET FRIED.
 
What is your controller amperage?
What is your battery 10A or 10Ah?
You will need to find a 18650 with 30A or go different chemistry for more discharge current but it all depends on your controller, your battery would not over rule your controller. Your controller is boss.
You do not want to over work a very physically small battery that you can use for 5-10 minutes.

You might want a switch to switch controllers, that will instantly disconnect the normal controller meanwhile connects the high power controller which already has your high powered battery hooked up to it. Then you need to worry about "back flow" so you dont fry anything. The word escapes me at the moment. Maybe diodes on the phases, go sensorless. Who knows I'm spitballing.

Or just go high powered system that is limited until you want it not limited. 3 speed switch?
 
MarkJohnston said:
Hello,

I want to build a small and lightweight but high voltage battery. The point of this battery would be to over volt the motor temporarily to get a ton of speed i.e. 50 mph just for 5 or 10 minutes.

I have two batteries 54.6 10 amps that are linked in parallel. The turbo boost would be on an on off switch maybe directly linked to the motor. I am planning on re wiring the axle because of a pre exisiting damage/cut to the axle wiring. So maybe I could custom build battery wiring directly to the motor to deliver high voltage so the CONTROLLER DOESN'T GET FRIED.

You really have no idea how BLDC motors work, do you? Or difference between volts and amps, speeds and watts required, and how torque comes into this picture?
Maybe it is not that good of an idea to hot rod stuff you are woefully ignorant about?
 
BalorNG said:
You really have no idea how BLDC motors work, do you? Or difference between volts and amps, speeds and watts required, and how torque comes into this picture?
Maybe it is not that good of an idea to hot rod stuff you are woefully ignorant about?

That stufff is easy, I have torque arms and will install another. I had a 72 volt set up before and it went 50 mph. :twisted:
 
MarkJohnston said:
. So maybe I could custom build battery wiring directly to the motor to deliver high voltage so the CONTROLLER DOESN'T GET FRIED.

Before you get off into the weeds with new big ideas, maybe spend some more time reading, tinkering, and generally figuring out how things work in the real world. The clueless crackpot aroma is getting pretty strong in here.
 
MarkJohnston said:
BalorNG said:
You really have no idea how BLDC motors work, do you? Or difference between volts and amps, speeds and watts required, and how torque comes into this picture?
Maybe it is not that good of an idea to hot rod stuff you are woefully ignorant about?

That stufff is easy, I have torque arms and will install another. I had a 72 volt set up before and it went 50 mph. :twisted:

*sigh* I'll see how torque arms will help your motor when you wire battery directly to it...
 
MarkJohnston said:
Hello,

I want to build a small and lightweight but high voltage battery. The point of this battery would be to over volt the motor temporarily to get a ton of speed i.e. 50 mph just for 5 or 10 minutes.

I have two batteries 54.6 10 amps that are linked in parallel. The turbo boost would be on an on off switch maybe directly linked to the motor. I am planning on re wiring the axle because of a pre exisiting damage/cut to the axle wiring. So maybe I could custom build battery wiring directly to the motor to deliver high voltage so the CONTROLLER DOESN'T GET FRIED.

10 minutes is an eternity in EV world, Drones deplete most of their batteries in that time, and so do some ebikes... none of this makes sense, sorry.
 
markz said:
Or just go high powered system that is limited until you want it not limited. 3 speed switch?

Yeah, i'll probably have to do that. I want to build a 108 volt 60 Amp hour battery. I would need to get a dirt bike or motorcycle chassis though. it wouldn't be a bicycle at all at that point. That would be an extremely heavy battery. I would also need a 7000 watt controller and a motor that could handle those watts.

The big problem is that my current set up is burning through disc brake pads and brake pads like matches. I tend to go WOT all the time, i hate riding on sidwalks and bikelanes. I need something that keeps up with traffic. There's always tons of debris, glass, etc. i've gotten so many flats it's insane. There's a very thin film of debris that's really hard to see, like sand always in the bike lanes here, + just tons of trash in general. It's a dirty city. :x

I'm usually traveling 30 mph at all times. right with the cars :twisted:
 
You need to focus more on stepping up your brakes and tires game than on fooling around with regen braking that won't deliver on your expectations.
 
Chalo said:
You need to focus more on stepping up your brakes and tires game than on fooling around with regen braking that won't deliver on your expectations.

How??? I already bought expensive $150 hydraulic disc brake + $60 rotor all shimano. I just bought 4 new metal disc brake pads for $60. MY build (bike) + rider (me) All total weighs 300 lbs. The braking forces are insane on a bicycle going 30 mph with 300 lbs. I've been snapping spokes during super hard braking. Regen braking??? I never said anything about regen braking, it's flat around here so really no need.

As far as "tire game" goes what sort of tires do you recommend? I highly doubt any kind of tire is going to with stand all the glass and debris from gutter/sidewalk/bikelane riding around here. I was thinking about conti gatorskins because they have kevlar belts but they are very expensive at $180 a pair. Tubeless would be even MORE expensive. This thing is quickly becoming a money pit!
 
regen/ebraking saves on brake pads, not sure how it suits your riding but I was in your situ but with sane, common sense riding speeds on a bicycle and would go through lots of brake pads. 375lbs + ebike components + bike. With v-brakes I could stand $5 pads, Chalo would report go with salmon kool stop pads but they were $20, but now I got mechanical disks with $9 generic pads from Chain Reaction Cycle so I can stand that but I do a lot of eabs braking.

Maybe you should just go to motorcycle components and motorcycle brakes on a motorcycle frame..........just buy a motorcycle or moped.
 
markz said:
regen/ebraking saves on brake pads, not sure how it suits your riding but I was in your situ but with sane, common sense riding speeds on a bicycle and would go through lots of brake pads. 375lbs + ebike components + bike. With v-brakes I could stand $5 pads, Chalo would report go with salmon kool stop pads but they were $20, but now I got mechanical disks with $9 generic pads from Chain Reaction Cycle so I can stand that but I do a lot of eabs braking.

Maybe you should just go to motorcycle components and motorcycle brakes on a motorcycle frame..........just buy a motorcycle or moped.

Almost every brake brand has replacement pads on aliexpress between 1 and 2 dollars. I've been using them fine, I have a hunch they come from the same factory as the originals (illicit production runs).
 
MarkJohnston said:
I've been snapping spokes during super hard braking.

That's a very bad sign about your wheels, not a commendation of your brakes. Remember that braking forces for any single spoke get divided by 36. If that's breaking anything, there's something the matter with your wheels.

Regen braking??? I never said anything about regen braking, it's flat around here so really no need.

Sorry about that; I misremembered you as one of the folks chatting about regen recently.

I was thinking about conti gatorskins because they have kevlar belts but they are very expensive at $180 a pair.

Those are very lightly protected sport tires. Hardly armored at all. Their main advantage is in the marketable name. For real protection look at Kenda Kwick Drumlin, WTB Thick Slick Flat Guard or Cruz Flat Guard, Schwalbe Marathon Plus, Continental Contact Plus, or Michelin Protek Max.

Tubeless would be even MORE expensive.

Tubeless would only make you spend more time fooling around with your tires. At best, you might sometimes be able to choose the time and place. But in return, it will always be a sticky mess.

Have you tried connecting your motor directly to a battery yet?
 
OK well I will have to check that out but who knows whats in the brake dust huh

Tommm said:
Almost every brake brand has replacement pads on aliexpress between 1 and 2 dollars. I've been using them fine, I have a hunch they come from the same factory as the originals (illicit production runs).
 
markz said:
OK well I will have to check that out but who knows whats in the brake dust huh

Tommm said:
Almost every brake brand has replacement pads on aliexpress between 1 and 2 dollars. I've been using them fine, I have a hunch they come from the same factory as the originals (illicit production runs).

The difference in performance/wear is none or maximum 20% lower, it is within placebo range.
 
MarkJohnston said:
There's always tons of debris, glass, etc. i've gotten so many flats it's insane. There's a very thin film of debris that's really hard to see, like sand always in the bike lanes here, + just tons of trash in general. It's a dirty city. :x
Yours would be a good candidate for moped rims + tires.

Moneypit? Who told you that 30+ MPH would be cheap? :lol:
 
Chalo said:
Have you tried connecting your motor directly to a battery yet?
Might get a stutter and a hum ... before the smoke and fire?

TURBO!
Check controller caps, Multi contact switch controlled 2x 25.9V 25.92Ah batteries, as 25.9V 51.84Ah "switching" to 51.8V 25.92Ah. Doubling volts should push 30mph capable eBike towards 50mph. Dependent on battery still sufficient to supply required amps.

.. ☠ Warning ! ☠ Do not get involved in below thread!

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62231&start=725#p982488

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62231&start=975#p995420

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62231&start=1175#p1002186

.. ☠ Warning ! ☠ Do not get involved in above thread! You might be risking exposure to some form of "Spiraling Dementia"!
 
99t4 said:
Yours would be a good candidate for moped rims + tires.

Moneypit? Who told you that 30+ MPH would be cheap? :lol:

Yeah but that would be even more expensive, because then I would get a much bigger hub motor, actual motorcycle brakes, etc, etc.
 
im switching the bicycle gears to super man/ super hero level ratios. So i can actually pedal it at 30 MPH+ :lol:

I have a 55 T largest chain ring + a 11 T chainring on the free wheel. Trying it pedal it without the motor on the highest rings would be excruciating lol.
 
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