looking to build a solar E-bike charging system

Photobug

100 µW
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Apr 23, 2022
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I have friends who own a bike rental business. They have been given a grant to electrify the utility bikes they use to deliver some rental bikes around town. They are also tasked to build a solar system to charge the bike batteries both for the new bikes which will have either Bafang or CYC motors on them and the Bosch and Specialized bike batteries they have for rental bikes.

I have built a solar system for my truck so know my way around a solar setup. But as I was describing the system it seemed silly to go from Solar energy to 12v to a battery to then go through an inverter to a power brick to return back to DC to charge the bike battery. Is there anyway to go from solar or from a 12V battery to a 48v battery?
 
There are MPPTs that have other output voltages...but the MPPT may not behave as the ebike charger does; it depends on the specific bike system whether it will work with it or not. (some OEM ebike systems have communication or signalling between their chargers and their battery/controller/etc systems, and disable the system / won't charge / etc if this is not present and correct).

As long as the MPPT provides the same output the charger did, limiting current to the max that specific bike's battery charger did, then you could directly connect it. There are some threads about this over the years, with more technical details including specific MPPTs, if you poke around.

But you'd need a separate MPPT for each battery to connect to, since you can't just connect different-states-of-charge batteries to the same pair of charging wires.

It's very probably much cheaper to use a system (whether 12v, 48v, or whatever) that uses a typical solar system (panels, MPPT, battery, inverter) to produce standard AC power that the chargers then individually run from, and just charge each bike normally with that.

Just needs an inverter that produces a clean enough AC waveform for the chargers to run correctly from, and that can provide enough simultaneous power for all of the chargers to run simultaneously from at their max continuous rate. ("all" meaning as many chargers as they would ever possibly have to use at the same time, so you might want to leave room for growth in the system).



If the panels can always output enough power thru the entire day to run that inverter at max power, the battery can be pretty small capacity. If there is ever a time they might not, you'd need a battery big enough to handle any disparity; if there is ever a time the panels might not produce any power but charging was still needed you'd need a battery capable of handling the entire full power of the inverter for the entire length of time this might happen, plus some extra for growth of the system and extra to compensate for losses as aging of the battery occurs.
 
a cheap ok option is an "mpt-72 10a". its a straight dc-dc conversion automatic module thing

this is a nice little "step up" dc solar charger (not real mppt but okish)..... it will take a 12v-60v and make upto 90v from it.
has some nice programability for battery maintenance/safety.

its output power is limited by input power (10a max input) but it should do the trick. you will need one per bike and enough panels to feed them.

this will be your simplest option. (other modules with similar functions are available https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192143107756?hash=item2cbc9f26ac:g:jxwAAOSwGPNcAWsk this one is a little simpler/less fine tuneable but same idea.)

however if this is a buisness model (needs dependability)......you might be better off using solar to charge a large stationary battery bank. then use that to dish out energy to the bikes individual batteries.

i say this......as i guess the ebikes will be in use in the daytime (when the sunlight is shining) meaning day charging of indivdual bikes might not be an option.

this large battery should give you a bit of a buffer zone to be totally solar powered even when the sun isnt shining or is intermittantly covered by clouds. it should also ensure the bikes batteries will get a full charge in the time you expect/want/need.

i.e. if you dont have it.....you could plug in all your bikes....and its not too sunny over one day/weekend/period of time....and you find that all your bikes only got half a charge and your fleet is out of action for a day.
or vice versa, all/most your bikes could be out being used on a sunny day and your solar panels are charging nothing (going to waste).

id say youd want a stationary battery with the same/bigger kwh as all your bikes+batteries kwhs' added together.
i.e. if you have seven bikes with a 1kwh battery each. go for a 8 - 9 kwh large battery.

as for panels. i guess you understand a 1000w panel 'should' fill a 1000wh (1kwh) battery in about an hour (under full sunlight)

youll have to do some of your own calculations dependant on the number of bikes, frequency/time of use, battery sizes, available solar panel mounting area, budget.

ive definately missed a lot, but i hope that helps.
 
Thanks for the info guys.

I had already responded to Amberwolf but i guess it did not send.

I am only doing this to help out a local bike shop that moved just around the corner for me because they are super nice people and I like the concept. I do not know the details of the business but also assume during busy season most of the bikes are out every day. So would need to develop a battery storage situation. As much as would like to do a LIPO, I don't think it is in the budget or at least not a big enough battery bank to support charging the entire fleet each night.

I could calculate the total batteries in the fleet and amp draw of the chargers but do not know the flow of the bikes, and I don't know that they know either. Are 90% of the bikes out each day and do all the batteries come back with the batteries drained? They may know the bikes out percentage daily but likely have no idea what capacity of the batteries are used daily. Part of this grant they have is to record and keep track of the amount of energy and savings from the solar setup to charge the e-bike batteries.

I like the idea of avoiding an inverter as it is just one more expense and weight if this thing becomes mobile. I have already created a mobile solar station for myself. It also seemed silly when I was describing my system to them when I got to the battery and then described the inverter converting the DC 12V power to 120 AC so the brick could then convert the AC to DC to charge the batteries. It seemed like one or two unnecessary steps.

The MPT-72 seems like a nice option. When I looked at the commercial e-bikes it looked as though there were only two prongs on the battery so maybe no communication or control from the charger, but I will reach out to the battery companies to get their input on the potential to charge without and inverter. I looked at 48v batteries but the prices on them are a large percentage of the total grant. It is possible the whole project will need to be scaled to show proof of concept on a smaller scale, as in only build the system to charge a portion of the batteries but size at least the MPPT to grow to accommodate more panels and batteries in the future.

The reseach continues, thanks for all your input so far. I will report back with what I find out from the battery manufacturers and how this all works out.
 
Without sounding condescending, how well do you understand how an e-bike battery charging system works? Yes, e-bike batteries have a positive and negative post (or tab or connector) like every other battery, but that is not how the charge is controlled. It is controlled through the BMS. Maybe you already know this, but it doesn't sound like it from your posts.

48v e-bike batteries are generally 13s or maybe 14s. Which means their charging voltages are 54.6v or 58.8v fully charged when every cell is brand new and fully functional. After some use, the individual cells may not take a full charge so the final SOC will be lower. It is up to the BMS to control the balance of the cells, hence a final SOC that may be lower then when the battery is new.

In any case, 48v will not be what your e-bike electronics are looking for.

Is it possible to bulk charge an 48v e-bike battery to 48v without damaging it? Yes, but the cells/cell groups won't necessarily be in balance with each other and that could cause a LVC problem down the line causing a bad experience for the customer who's bike suddenly stops working long before is should. No e-bike rider likes to be 5 miles from home and have the bike quit. That makes for a long walk-of-shame pushing the dead bike back to where you rented it. Or even waiting for a van to show up with a replacement is no fun.

Nobody likes inefficiencies in their systems, but the systems have to integrate with what you have.

Also, if you are looking at options for a power wall, look at LTO cells. They are low powered and heavy, but they can charge really fast and last for many-many years.

my 2¢

:D :bolt:
 
Photobug said:
I do not know the details of the business but also assume during busy season most of the bikes are out every day.
If you want to develop a system that will actually do the work they need, you will need to find out the details of their usage patterns, and of each of their bike's batteries and chargers. Without that info, you're just building a general solution that may or may not do the job they need, potentially wasting their money and time at best, or making a dangerous hazard at worst, depending on the solution you build and how they end up using it. (they may not use it the way you intended...and that is where you have to build safeties in they can't accidentally bypass, or just plain build it so they can't do it wrong).

If I sound a bit harsh, it's because batteries can be serious fire hazards when treated the wrong way, and it doesn't take more than one wrong charging to damage one to catastrophic levels. Since the end-user (the business's employees doing the charging) usually doesn't really know a lot about all this, any solution you make will almost certainly need to be foolproof and failsafe, or you could be on the receiving end of a lawsuit if it burns their business down. We'd all prefer to avoid that. ;)

I probably didn't remember to cover all of the potential gotchas, but I tried to do so. Hopefully someone else will add anything I missed.



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Overnight Bank Capacity

So would need to develop a battery storage situation. As much as would like to do a LIPO, I don't think it is in the budget or at least not a big enough battery bank to support charging the entire fleet each night.
There's no need for something as power-dense as LiPo (like RC Lipo, for instance), especially since those usually have a pretty short cycle life.

For a battery bank on a solar setup, you're looking more for high capacity and long lifespan. Since lead tends to work better when kept near full charge, FLA battery banks (like car batteries, as many in parallel as needed to store the number of Wh required to charge the bike batteries) would probably work better for this purpose.

If budget won't allow that big a battery bank, but they do need to do most of their charging when the solar isn't active, then you should figure out which bikes are the lowest Wh batteries, and setup a bank that will fit in that budget that will charge however many of those bikes it can. Then mark those bikes as the "solar charged" bikes, so the employees only charge *them* on the system overnight, so it doesn't get depleted and not charge the ones on it enough to be used the next day. (since the overnight system is presumably not monitored by anyone, and simply assumed to be charged to full by the next day, as that is usually a safe assumption in these cases for AC-powered charging systems, and they'll apply the same assumptions to the solar).



I could calculate the total batteries in the fleet and amp draw of the chargers but do not know the flow of the bikes, and I don't know that they know either. Are 90% of the bikes out each day and do all the batteries come back with the batteries drained? They may know the bikes out percentage daily but likely have no idea what capacity of the batteries are used daily.
Does teh grant require that the solar system do all the work of charging the bikes? Or only some of the bikes? or??

To build a system that even *can* do the work, you need to at least guesstimate the total Wh of the batteries in the bikes that have to be solar-charged; the OEM batteries may even have this printed on them. (if not, you can calculate a guesstimate by multiplying the V x the Ah)

Assume worst case, that every bike comes back empty every day, and has to be fully recharged overnight to be ready for the next day.


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Monitoring.

Part of this grant they have is to record and keep track of the amount of energy and savings from the solar setup to charge the e-bike batteries.
Then they will need to get some watt meters to monitor charging; enough to monitor every bike that is being solar-charged.

This can be done at the bike level, but it's easier to do it at the AC input to the charger, with something like a Kilawatt meter. If the meter can handle the current draw from all the chargers operating at once, you can use just one, but it's likely you'll need more than one to do this. Since you don't have to monitor each individual bike, just the total power in Wh being drawn from the system (to compare kWhr costs to the regular AC system), all that has to be done is to reset all the meters each charging session, and total the numbers from them all, so however many meters it takes to support the total current draw from all the chargers at maximum current draw simultaneously.

They should be able to assume that (if using inverter on the solar) that the watthours used on it are the same as that of regular AC; it may be different (worse) on the solar inverter if the inverter is not a good sinewave like the regular AC; powerfactor of the chargers could be worse and efficiency would drop.


If you don't use an inverter, you'll need to use a DC-type wattmeter instead, between the individual current-limited DC outputs of the solar system and each battery, because you cannot wire all the batteries in parallel, even if they were the same voltage types, for multiple reasons--each battery *must* have it's own separate DC-DC from the solar source; this is going to cost (probably a lot) more than the battery-inverter system. Unless they make a meter you can use with the variable voltage / variable current DC of the solar panels themselves, that can handle the worst-case simultaneous current draw of all the separate MPPTs, (or you use separate panels and meters for each MPPT, etc) and the meters will not interfere with the MPPT operation, there won't be a way to use a single or grouped set of meters to measure Wh, you have to do it at each battery's charge input.


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DC charging

I like the idea of avoiding an inverter as it is just one more expense and weight if this thing becomes mobile.
It would be nice, but since you are not dealing with a single battery voltage or type, then to do a non-inverter system you are going to be building not one system for all the batteries, but what amounts to a complete system for each and every battery they have.

If you were doing this for just one bike, (not one at a time, but just one, period), using an inverterless straight DC system is relatively easy. But doing it for a bunch of different bikes with different batteries is not.

Even doing it for a bunch of the same bike that have to be charged at the same time is not.

First, you can't just apply a DC voltage to a lithium battery to charge it.

You must have the specific maximum voltage that specific battery charges to, and not higher or lower. You must have the specific maximum *current limited* current that specific battery requires (or lower, but not higher). If you don't do this, you may damage the batteries or even cause a fire. (the fire might not happen the first time you do it--it may take cumulative damage to do it, and it could ignite during any usage, at any time, not just during charging, once the damage occurs).

So you can't just use an MPPT with output high enough to charge the highest voltage battery, and run with it. If you have controls on that MPPT that the person doing the charging can set to the specific for each battery, *and you trust them to always always always do this correctly* (which isn't going to happen, someone will make a mistake eventually and damage a battery or cause a fire), then you could use a single "programmable" MPPT to charge *one battery at a time*.

The current limiting is extremely important. The battery doesn't do this itself; the charger has to. When a battery is empty, without current limiting in the charger (that matches what the original charger limited to), quite a high current can flow when applying a voltage to it. If it's not enough to damage the charging voltage source itself, it'll probably be enough to damage the battery, or the charging wiring, possibly even enough to start a fire during the charge process. (if not, enough to damage the cells to potentially cause one later).

Some batteries are capable of being charged at a somewhat higher current than the charger they come with is designed for; sometimes cost is the only reason a slightly higher current charger is not used. But sometimes it's because they calculated out (or tested) what current the cells can take as they age, which will drop over time, and they picked a charger that will "never" exceed that, so the packs never get damaged by the charging process itself. So unless you analyze every pack being charged for it's internal parts (not just every brand, but each individual pack because they may not all be made of the same cells, etc), you're much much safer to assume the manufacturer knew what they were doing and use only the maximum current that the charger that came with the pack is limited to, for charging that pack.


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Second, you cannot wire multiple batteries to the same one simultaneously. Only one battery can be connected to one charger or MPPT at a time.


Each battery will come back at a different state of charge, which is a differnet voltage level. Connecting them together means wiring them in parallel at the charge port. Doing so with different voltages means current will flow between them. If this current exceeds that which the BMS in the battery can handle (especially since the charge port is not designed to handle reverse current), it will damage the FETs. That usualy means they get stuck on. It's a silent failure, so you won't even know this has happened, most of the time. When that happens, the BMS can no longer ever prevent overcharge of a battery; as it gets out of balance over time, high cells will get higher, and low cells will get lower, until a high cell eventually is at the overcharge point where damage or fire occurs.

It's even possible that, since the current isn't limited except by resistance (which isn't much) when this occurs, you could have a nearly full battery wired in parallel with a nearly empty one (or worse, a bunch of nearly full and just one nearly empty, if wiring many in parallel), and so much current flows from the full to the empty that it heats the empty cells so much they just burst into flame right then and there. If the cells don't, the wiring could.


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Why an inverter is "better" in this case

Even though an inverter wastes power...it means you can use the original chargers, and the end user only has to plug them in, just like they always do. Any mistakes they could make they could make without your system, and therefore are also not your fault. ;)

The inverter just provides regular AC power. The chargers do all the work they originally did, and the batteries are at no more risk of damage or fire than they were without the system you will design / provide.

You don't have to build a system that considers each individual battery's needs, and design it to ensure the end-user can't screw up and plug the wrong one into the wrong charging port so they don't burn their business down or set a bike on fire under a rider later.

You don't have to build Wh monitoring into each charging setup; you can just do it at the inverter's AC output. The end-user doesn't have to total and reset each battery's monitor, they just record and reset one or a few AC-side meters.


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Important safety considerations of DC out MPPTs (or any other source)

The MPT-72 seems like a nice option.
Does it have user-settable voltage and current limits? If not, you can't use it to charge the batteries safely.

To be safe, it must have a current limit that does not exceed that of the charger for the specific battery it is being used to charge.

To be safe, it must have a voltage limit that matches that of the charger for the specific battery it is being used to charge.

If it's not user-settable, you need one for each separate battery, one which has already been set by you or is factory-set, to those limits, and it needs to be setup so it can't be connected to the wrong battery.

If it *is* user-settable, then each person that will ever do the charging will need to be trained on how to do that, and they must be trustable to always do it right, every time.


Information from companies:
When I looked at the commercial e-bikes it looked as though there were only two prongs on the battery so maybe no communication or control from the charger, but I will reach out to the battery companies to get their input on the potential to charge without and inverter.
It's likely that most don't have charger communication, but there are some systems that do. They almost always have extra pins on the charger port than the two needed for current flow, so if there are no extra pins, it is a safe bet that they don't have charger communication.

For OEM bike companies, they will almost certainly tell you the warranty is void if you use anything other than the original charger, and that nothing except the original charger is safe / allowed to be used / will work on them, depending on what their lawyers tell them to say. If they do say anything else, you'd really need the information to come from their engineering department to trust it, as anyone else may not know what the real information is, and could just be going by marketing info or ad copy. That's pretty common, unfortunately.

In most cases, your best source of information on what specs to use for charging is right there on the charger that came with a particular battery. Don't use anything that exceeds those numbers, and it should work like the original charger, as long as it operates in the same way as the charger.



It is possible the whole project will need to be scaled to show proof of concept on a smaller scale, as in only build the system to charge a portion of the batteries but size at least the MPPT to grow to accommodate more panels and batteries in the future.
That's probably a good way to do it, if the budget is limited. Build a foolproof small-scale system, then as budget allows, duplicate that system as many times as necessary to do the work required.
 
e-beach said:
Yes, e-bike batteries have a positive and negative post (or tab or connector) like every other battery, but that is not how the charge is controlled. It is controlled through the BMS.

Just to clarify this for the OP and anyone else reading later:

It is really controlled thru the charger, in that the charger controls the actual voltage and current applied.

All the BMS does is decide when to disallow charging, and when to allow it, based on it's monitoring of the actual cells (or cell groups). It can't control what voltage or current goes into the cells--that's the charger's job.
 
Photobug said:
I have built a solar system for my truck so know my way around a solar setup. But as I was describing the system it seemed silly to go from Solar energy to 12v to a battery to then go through an inverter to a power brick to return back to DC to charge the bike battery. Is there anyway to go from solar or from a 12V battery to a 48v battery?
Sure. But I doubt that's what you want since that will only charge one battery.

There are several options.

1) Charge a 12V battery and use a (standalone) inverter. If you already have the parts this could be cheap. Note the battery can be a terrible battery; all it has to do is hold enough energy to deal with surges. Then plug the AC chargers into the inverter.

2) If all the batteries he wants to charge are exactly the same voltage, then use a stationary battery at that voltage, then use resistors to limit the maximum current and charge them from the stationary battery. Better yet use active current limiters to prevent overcharge and increase charging speed.

3) Get a cheap "blue inverter*" and do a pseudo grid tie system. The inverters I am thinking of use a current sense transformer so they will never send power back to the grid; they will start throttling back when the current starts going positive. Then plug your AC chargers into the output of the inverter. The inverter will supply the power the chargers need and no more than that.

(* - https://www.amazon.com/Inverter-Limiter-DC25-60V-AC110V-Switch/dp/B07GC53QBD/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1YETKPX17FIFP&keywords=grid%2Btie%2Binverter&qid=1650915796&sprefix=grid%2Btie%2Binverte%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-5&th=1)
 
amberwolf said:
Just to clarify this for the OP and anyone else reading later:

It is really controlled thru the charger, in that the charger controls the actual voltage and current applied.

All the BMS does is decide when to disallow charging, and when to allow it, based on it's monitoring of the actual cells (or cell groups). It can't control what voltage or current goes into the cells--that's the charger's job.

Please explain to me how is it wrong to say that the bulk charge of the charger is not the final control of the final charge outcome? If the bulk charge is all a lithium battery needs, then why not just hook it up to a solar panel and let it go and charge to whatever without a BMS......

And I agree that a charger applies a voltage and current, much like a solar array can do, but it is the job of the BMS to finish the final voltage and balance of the battery.

Am I wrong?

:bolt:
 
If I managed to read some of the long diatribes I’d probably never have tried to do solar charging. It’s really not that complex. I used the guidance from our forum benefactor. https://ebikes.ca/learn/solar.html.

Because shipping small orders is expensive from Canada I saved an additional $25 and $19 shipping and got the MPPT from a Walfart listing.

https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/solar/adjustable-400w-boost-mppt.html
 
Just to clarify, I am somewhat ignorant but not an idiot.

I haven't had time to read all the comments but will as I am learning some things and being reminded of others.

To point out I do know lithium batteries require balancing and a BMS. The fact there are only two inputs to a battery tells me the BMS is internal. I am not going to take that for granted I am reaching out to Bosch and Specialized to confirm that idea. However, I have done some research and relearning of the LIPO concepts, I forgot in the last year like a 12v battery does not charge at 12v and the same is true for a 36 or 48vs. Having a 48v storage battery benefits me none as it will need to be converted to whatever volts needed to charge any battery the same as a 12v. I have given up the idea of skipping an inverter.

I have learned a little bit more about the bike stores charging needs:
They will have 2-3 cargo e-bikes and a fleet of 25 e-bikes and even more pedal bikes. I was crunching the numbers and figuring out how many of the bikes we could charge each night, looking at the amps (1.9-2.5) of the chargers and the size of the batteries (400-500wh). Almost every bike goes out each day and comes back with the battery nearly drained. So I had my numbers, then started working backwards to design my system, crunching all the numbers along the way. Like how many battery chargers can I run on a 2000W inverter. I should have started the other direction. This morning I looked at what I can expect from each 100W solar panel. I figure maybe room for 2 100w solar panels, as they rent the building and I am looking at placing some folding panels on their small lawn, this is the true limitation of the potential.

Crunching the numbers in reality I should be building this system with the idea in mind to charge only the batteries for the 3 cargo bikes. These bikes will largely be busy during delivery and pick up in the morning and evenings and one or all will be idle during peak solar charging times. With this new insight, I don't need a huge inverter or a huge battery bank. I need as many panels as we can fit and afford. We were leaning towards a lead-acid battery bank, but now can maybe go LIPO.
 
I don't see mentioned in a quick scan, but given the variability in bikes, charging, schedules/times/amounts they charge not to mention solar output on sunny vs cloudy vs summer vs winter days, you might consider a grid tied system where you dump power on the grid when not needed and take it back when it is.

Consider if you need a system with the capacity to charge all your bikes on a short, cloudy winter day and size the system for that - but it only charges bikes, then a great deal of the time, it may be idle or at least not working to full capacity. Conversely, if you have 'just enough' capacity during the summer, you might not get all bikes charged on shorter or cloudy days. Either way, tying into the grid will help balance your load and optimize the system - just that your electrons might not always take a direct path from a solar cell to the battery.
 
4πr^2 said:
Consider if you need a system with the capacity to charge all your bikes on a short, cloudy winter day and size the system for that - but it only charges bikes, then a great deal of the time, it may be idle or at least not working to full capacity. Conversely, if you have 'just enough' capacity during the summer, you might not get all bikes charged on shorter or cloudy days. Either way, tying into the grid will help balance your load and optimize the system - just that your electrons might not always take a direct path from a solar cell to the battery.

Just found the quote feature on this forum. I am in Jackson Wyoming. Not a lot of biking in winter, there is some now thanks to Fat Tire Bikes. Not a lot of tourists looking to rent. It is still winter here, it is freezing and snowing more often than not till June, winter starts in October. Looking mostly for a charging system to last May-September.

I might be able to tie into the grid but not sure how much it is worth here. I just looked and KWH costs about 6 cents so it costs likely 3 cents to charge each battery. It might take a lot of time to recoup the costs of any solar charging system.
 
You are paying how many of thousands to get $0.00 a charge?
How much would it cost to charge from your utility power outlet on your wall? You said it would be $0.03, lets say 500wh battery so $0.06 per kwh. I bet you could invest whatever they give you in solar panel loan to a high dividend stock that pays out MONTHLY not quarterly and be ahead of the game. But with inflation, who knows.

I will see a sale on a panel every now and then I believe its $500 for 100w, sale is $250 for 100w, nationwide department store their product in store, non of this marketplace bullshet.

Stationary charging, ideal ebike/bike biz.
I would get minimum of one, or two 240v outlets in the charging area for charging the battery along with a minimum of 4, or 6, 120v outlets for charging, outlets are cheap, if you use them you use them.
The 240v outlets allows you to dump a lot of kw into the battery that the 120v outlet cant do.
Lets say the owner is rich, and has a 72v 70ah battery, and wants it fully charged in a short time. Thats a total of 5kwh, at 72v and 25a or better yet 72v 35a (if the battery can take that charge rate.) Just depends, solar seems like such a waste unless the price is right I would stick with electric. Business you dont want to mess around, you got one shot, skip the solar bs, unless the grant or loan is to good to pass up.
 
calab said:
You are paying how many of thousands to get $0.00 a charge?
How much would it cost to charge from your utility power outlet on your wall? You said it would be $0.03, lets say 500wh battery so $0.06 per kwh. I bet you could invest whatever they give you in solar panel loan to a high dividend stock that pays out MONTHLY not quarterly and be ahead of the game. But with inflation, who knows.

I would stick with electric. Business you dont want to mess around, you got one shot, skip the solar bs, unless the grant or loan is to good to pass up.

I know about investing wisely, I comfortably retired early by investing wisely. I play with electronics in my free time because it is fun. I just crunched the numbers on charging via electricity, does it make sense to build a solar setup when you have electricity in the shop, No. But a grant is free money to play with and he wants a solar charging system, so I get to play with electronics at his expense.

Given the new goal of only charging his cargo bikes i can build a very small system or maybe a prebuilt one to charge the cargo bike batteries. In the offseason he could use the setup to camp out his truck.
 
Photobug said:
Just to clarify, I am somewhat ignorant but not an idiot.
We were leaning towards a lead-acid battery bank, but now can maybe go LIPO.

I don’t get the Bosch LiPo connection. What are you asking Bosch and Specialized?

I’m retired (tired) too, and knew squat about electronics other than sat linked irrigation controllers. Great fun to learn.
 
I need as many panels as we can fit and afford.
That's right.
I built a sm solar charging system to use when off the grid in my RV many years ago and it was based on the MT-72.
Solar panels to MT-72 to RC charger.
I don't remember all the details but the take-aways were;

I had to use 4) of the sm. panels connected in series/parallel to get 24 Volt to get any real power out of the MT-72. Higher Volts in would have been better.
The Mt-72 is supposed to be MPPT, but really isn't. If a cloud comes by, it drops the track and takes minutes to come back to supplying anything.
The panels need some way of changing their angles to follow the sun, otherwise only the hr.s around mid-day produce much(even on a hot summer's day in Az). I worked on a couple of systems to do this, but they were complicated and none worked. I ended up linking them together and moved by hand twice in the morning and twice in the afternoon.
The MT-72 isn't very efficient and even under the best conditions, the most I could get to charge with was a few Amps.
Basiclly it was a lot of work for not much, but out in the boonies was it was better than nothing.
These days, I don't do much boon-docking and plug into 115 V to charge.
There are plenty of tutorials on You Tube on how to built residential-style solar charging systems and I would suggest watching those instead of reading a book here.
They all have one thing in common, money.
Big panels and high-end electronics. Even if the electricity rates are high (the OP hasn't filled out his profile, so it's hard to judge), the amount of investment seems like alot for the savings from a purly financial point of view.
 
tomjasz said:
Photobug said:
Just to clarify, I am somewhat ignorant but not an idiot.
We were leaning towards a lead-acid battery bank, but now can maybe go LIPO.

I don’t get the Bosch LiPo connection. What are you asking Bosch and Specialized?

I’m retired (tired) too, and knew squat about electronics other than sat linked irrigation controllers. Great fun to learn.

I reached out to Bosch asking for someone in technical support who could contact me about details of the batteries, never heard back. Most of the other companies in the solar or battery field has reached out to me with offers of technical help.

It looks as though the bike shop may just buy a premade "solar generator". They want it to be very portable and presentable for demonstration purposes.
 
motomech said:
Big panels and high-end electronics. Even if the electricity rates are high (the OP hasn't filled out his profile, so it's hard to judge), the amount of investment seems like alot for the savings from a purly financial point of view.

I am in Jackson Wyoming. The KWH is between 5 and 7 cents. The higher price reflects the option to buy green energy which I believe comes from a wind farm. So the cost per charge of a battery is 3-6 cents give or take. So lets say the solar setup produces 15 cents worth of power a day. Summer is about 5 months long so a total of $22.5 savings a summer. Just throwing out a low number for the solar setup $1000. As long as nothing breaks the solar charging setup will pay for it self in a little over 44 years.
 
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