"man you elevate working to an art. you actually put down a towel on the kitchen table so you don't destroy the table? or is that the carpet? hehe."
I drilled out the board to fit 10awg in my 12fet i would assume the same could be done on a 6 fet controller?dnmun wrote: i don't think you can get 10AWG into the phase wire holes, but 12G will handle up to 40A without getting too hot too. way cool.
It will be, once I have time to actually read it instead of skimming... I don't have any answers for the questions yet, but smarter people than me have already answered.Thud wrote:So other than my education, is this thread of any use to anyone?
As usual, I can't answer this, but I would like the answer. Bump!Thud wrote: #1 the power resistor R1 is the only thing powering the LM377 12v regulator, as I see it the 5v buss runs directly down line from threre.
Q: Since the 116 chip is so easy to program, do i need to modify any resistors to affect LVC? (as described in detail in other threads)
I am assuming that the LVC programing function will act as a back stop if nessisary. (really a moot point as this is not going to be used as a distance rig that would get anywhere near LVC points...Just curious)
Based on the circuit shown, I see no reason to worry about those two.Thud wrote: Is there any reason to upgrade C3 & C4 to anything other than the 25v100uf that are there? (I believe it is the 12v buss & isolated. not effeced by any of these mods)
Based on what little I remember of the threads I researched for repair/mod info a month or two ago, I think it's all in firmware.Q: Since the 116 chip is so easy to program, do i need to modify any resistors to affect LVC? (as described in detail in other threads)
If you mean that the LVC will shut off the controller once voltage drops below that, then AFAIK yes.I am assuming that the LVC programing function will act as a back stop if nessisary. (really a moot point as this is not going to be used as a distance rig that would get anywhere near LVC points...Just curious)
I don't know this for sure...but if you tell the controller it has more current handling ability than it really does, it may surge more current thru the power stage than it can handle and they will become Magically Operated Smoke and Fire Emitting Transistors that no longer magically operate or transistoratisize, but still emit smoke and fire.Also to defeat the "saftey current"circut (that was causing the 1/4 throttle cut out issues) I am programming this using the 12fet setting & adjusting the values acordingly.
Any one care to school me on all the ramifcations of this trickery? It would be a nice disscusion
I'll have to look thru that again and see.Thud wrote:Here is a link that takes us through the discovery & trouble shooting of these small controller "cutting out" issuses:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =2&t=16910
I have yet to form an opinion on the reason this circut is so touchy on these models, It is a great saftey feature if that was the intent.
I know that these guys were haveing the same issues also:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =2&t=12616
AFAIK, the LVC has nothing to do with the shunt. The LVC is simply measuring incoming battery voltage, to see if it should shut down the controller. If the LVC is programmable on that one, then you just set it to whatever your battery LVC should be (or higher if you want some "wiggle room" before total cutout, so that it will start cutting out at high power demands first, but still let you limp a bit afterward without risk to the batteries).Once I modify the shunt (solderd 1/2 shut) to lower the resitance, (thus matching the ratings of a 12 FET controller) I am wondering if the values will be askew enough to make havok on the LVC programed settings.
Sorry Thud, it was a 12fet running the scoot but on a positive note it is running the stock fets (75A) the current limit on my 12 fet is set to 70A, because of the stock fets (rds) the controller gets rather toasty quite quickly so needs to be nursed. If I was to uprade the fets ( to the same thats what I have put into my 6fet controllers ) and rehouse/better cooling I am confident that I can push 130A constant through the 12fet ( maybe more ), As my 6 fet stands I know it will push 70A constant all day long with the mods that I have made. I think that it is the potentional massive phase current ( not just the heat ) that can kill all the types of controllers ( sensorless/sensored) and as we know the phase current will be at its max upto the maybe the first 1krpm of the motor so this is the danger zone.Thud wrote:Thanks for the input gwhy,
I don't know why I assumed the #s in parameter designer reflected actual ampers draw....but that makes more sence given the way the Block time settings function.(I am going to re-read a couple threads now)
Upgraded the FETs to irfb4110's.
caps low ESR 100v capable.....
The plan is to finish the modified box to house it in & get some real live testing done with the bike this weekend.
Need to be carfull, so I can race it next Sat. & see how it does against the gassers.
I will be starting wth some conservitive settings & only push it to where I feel its competitive. I hope that happens before it blows up.(I have Lyen's 72v 18 fet on the way for back up )
I am using an turnigy 80/85-170 & hope it matches the perfomance of your scooter project.
Are you using your 12fet on the scooter? (please tell me it was the 6 fet model )
Thanks again. T
Mike,mwkeefer wrote: Another point... when using infineons (only 846 so far, sorry will check the 116 soon) to drive RC motors which I have adapted with Halls... setting phase current to approx 1.25 X that of primary current yeilded the fastest no-load RPMs (combined with 115% speed setting)... 1:1 acheived the same no-load RPM but 1.25 was as far as I could tweak the difference before the noload top RPM went down...