2807 remove motor side cover with puller

lifepo4ever

10 kW
Joined
Mar 30, 2009
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662
Location
Québec , canada
can i remove the side cover of the motor because i have to change the motor wire for 10 gauge wire and also i don't find the topic about cover removal thank you.
 
lifepo4ever said:
can i remove the side cover of the motor because i have to change the motor wire for 10 gauge wire and also i don't find the topic about cover removal thank you.

Hi Lifepo4ever!

You do not necessary need a puller to remove the 9C 2807 cover plate. The trick is to insert a very sharp razor blade and cut the silicon glue off the edge. Be very careful not cut yourself. I have learned my lesson the hard way. :wink:

Regards,
Lyen
 
Some do a trick where they undo the screws, then bang the opposite side axle end down on a block of wood to start the pull.

I prefer to use a thin wedge, like a knife I don't mind ruining to start the crack, then switch to three thin screwdrivers. Don't put the drivers too far in, and cut windings or something, just the tips. Once opened up far enough, a puller can be used, or prying with wider tools.

Slow and carefull is the thing I think. Don't remove the core from the motor unless you have to. You can lose a finger putting it back.
 
I'm with dogman on the sharp chisel or knife.
There is really no way to hook on the puller.
It does come apart a lot easier than you might think. Tap a sharp chisel in and the cover will come loose, tap the other side axle on a block of wood and it will pop off.
Dan
 
you only need a puller if you want to remove the stator from the motor. the magnets are very strong and hold that stator in very strongly. a puller makes that job a lot easier. but you need a really big puller to do that. 8" or 10". way bigger than you find in most tool stores.

i use a method that someone else already described. i loosen all of the cover screws a few turns. i run a sharp knife blade around the seam to cut through the paint and sealer. on the opposite side i put on an axle nut so that it protects the last threads at the end of the axle. then i give the axle a couple of good sharp raps with a dead-blow mallet. if the mallet isn't handy i may smack the motor down on a block of wood. the cover will either pop off or open a crack wide enough to get a wedge in to complete the job.

much eaiser than trying to force a wedge or knife edge in.

rick
 
the reason why i do this because i want to change the phase wire to 10 gauge because i don't want to burn the motor with my new lipo set up
 
My 9c was a PITA to open. I didn't have much luck prying with the typical razor blades, chisels and sharpened screwdrivers that usually work for me. I screwed an old dead freewheel mostly on and then hooked a gear puller over it. I really had to crank the puller before the cover popped. but it eventually did. The freewheel was deforming terribly but held together.

I would have liked to have run 10 gauge, but the axle bore is quite narrow and even 12 gauge would be a challenge. I ended up using the original phase wires doubled up. Even that was a snug fit. Anyway, I made the phase wires only extend about 6" past the end of the axle (just enough for a drip loop) before ending in connectors that tie into a 10 gauge wiring harness on the bike.
 
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