Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by grindz145 » Nov 21 2010 3:46pm

liveforphysics wrote:

Fortunately, the "current efficiency" of every connector is 100%.
Haha.... :lol: I grind my teeth on some of these terms too....

Say what you will I still love my Anderson connectors. They make everything so easy with cheap tools and they're fairly robust electrically.

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by lifepo4ever » Nov 21 2010 4:24pm

it still important to use bigger wire and bigger connector to avoid heat but why people using bigger speaker wire when they want a better sound quality ? and why we using
6gauge wire to boosting car instead of 12 gauge because you don't have the good amount of current to start the car i still don't understand the theory of luke ''Fortunately, the "current efficiency" of every connector is 100%. , one day i will be more intelligent :D :D :D

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by Gordo » Nov 21 2010 4:40pm

lifepo4ever wrote:it still important to use bigger wire and bigger connector to avoid heat but why people using bigger speaker wire when they want a better sound quality ? and why we using
6gauge wire to boosting car instead of 12 gauge because you don't have the good amount of current to start the car i still don't understand the theory of luke ''Fortunately, the "current efficiency" of every connector is 100%. , one day i will be more intelligent :D :D :D
I can assure you it is not your intelligence that is being poked at, it is your command of Henglish. Quality audio of 0-20Khz is a totally different problem than DC jump starting a car, which is different again from low R at a connector. Don't confuse the I^2R of a connector with that of 12 feet of wire.
And by the way, car booster cable losses are most often right at the crimp to the clamps or because of the shitty plating on steel clamps. :D :mrgreen:
Your picture of the babe on the beach speaks volumes. TOO much thinking with the little head? :lol:
Not that LFP doesn't have the same problem.
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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by shorza » Nov 21 2010 4:57pm

The Mighty Volt wrote:Hi Shorba

Your battery will put out whatever power it is capable of, Batteries are dumb that way.

The controller does all the thinking and siphons the "correct" amount of power into the hub.

However, the battery and the controller have to be matched correctly with the hub.

Can you please tell me what sort of battery {chemistry, brand, Voltage and Ah} you have?

Is your controller stock? Or specialized?

Thanks.
Thanks so much for your help.
The battery is from Conhismotor and is a LiFePo4 48v 10ah in an aluminium case.
The controller is a 12 FET Lyen controller, that he said he would match up to my battery/motor.
I noticed the (massive) difference in gauge in the phase wires between my motor and the lyen controller, and thought it could be a problem.

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by lifepo4ever » Nov 21 2010 6:16pm

Gordo wrote:
lifepo4ever wrote:it still important to use bigger wire and bigger connector to avoid heat but why people using bigger speaker wire when they want a better sound quality ? and why we using
6gauge wire to boosting car instead of 12 gauge because you don't have the good amount of current to start the car i still don't understand the theory of luke ''Fortunately, the "current efficiency" of every connector is 100%. , one day i will be more intelligent :D :D :D
I can assure you it is not your intelligence that is being poked at, it is your command of Henglish. Quality audio of 0-20Khz is a totally different problem than DC jump starting a car, which is different again from low R at a connector. Don't confuse the I^2R of a connector with that of 12 feet of wire.
And by the way, car booster cable losses are most often right at the crimp to the clamps or because of the shitty plating on steel clamps. :D :mrgreen:
Your picture of the babe on the beach speaks volumes. TOO much thinking with the little head? :lol:
Not that LFP doesn't have the same problem.
I can live with out my little head :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: et je parle en anglais comme je peut :lol: :lol:

and whatt that mean lfp ''look for partner'' :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by Alan B » Nov 21 2010 9:57pm

I received the famous 20/130 watt TENMA soldering pencil, and some of the 4mm Turnigy battery type bullets with 2 terminal telescoping covers.

The soldering pencil looks good. Quality is impressive for $6. In my first use with #10 wire and 4mm bullets it did the job. Not as fast or easily as I expected. I'll hold judgement until I get more experience with it.

On the 4mm Turnigy bullets. I'm not impressed with the wimpy little spring contacts. Yes there are a few in parallel, but they don't have much current carrying cross section. We'll see how they do.

On the two pin bodies, how does one get the pins into the body? They don't want to push in from the back, and the hole is too small to take 10 gauge wire insulation through to solder them beyond and pull back. The 4mm terminals will accept 4mm wire, which is more copper than #10, so the fit is not great. Not sure yet how to make them work. I'm sure someone else on here can tell us how the insulator body should be installed.

On the whole, I have no idea why folks want to use soldered bullet connectors. It is absolutely a pain compared to crimping a proper connector with a good crimper. No wonder I haven't soldered a single Anderson since I got a good quality crimper. It has been so many years I forgot how not fun soldering them was. I jumped at the chance to buy a good Anderson crimper for only $50 after soldering them for years! These bullets have no decent mechanical grip on the wire. Their solder cup is very shallow. Solder wants to wick up the wire making it stiff. It takes time to heat them up. It is tricky to get a nice joint. It takes time to wait for them to cool. What a royal pain.

Bah humbullets!

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by The Mighty Volt » Nov 21 2010 10:18pm

shorza wrote:
The Mighty Volt wrote:Hi Shorba

Your battery will put out whatever power it is capable of, Batteries are dumb that way.

The controller does all the thinking and siphons the "correct" amount of power into the hub.

However, the battery and the controller have to be matched correctly with the hub.

Can you please tell me what sort of battery {chemistry, brand, Voltage and Ah} you have?

Is your controller stock? Or specialized?

Thanks.
Thanks so much for your help.
The battery is from Conhismotor and is a LiFePo4 48v 10ah in an aluminium case.
The controller is a 12 FET Lyen controller, that he said he would match up to my battery/motor.
I noticed the (massive) difference in gauge in the phase wires between my motor and the lyen controller, and thought it could be a problem.
No problem.

Your battery is probably good for 500-750w, with Amps at 10A to 20A. Those small wires should be ok for that sort of current.

Do you know what the C Rating of the cells in the battery are?


Lyen uses bigger wires as people use his controller for much bigger projects, so he makes sure the wire is bigger.

But this won't be a problem for you.

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by deVries » Nov 21 2010 11:40pm

Alan B wrote:On the 4mm Turnigy bullets. I'm not impressed with the wimpy little spring contacts. Yes there are a few in parallel, but they don't have much current carrying cross section. We'll see how they do.
It's strange that the RC chargers come with 4mm bullets for the DC output/input, but this may be that the distance of wire used is very short. Even my high 20 amp RC charger uses 4mm bullets.

From Hobby King I buy the 5.5mm bullets which match the Nano and higher C LiPo. These fit tighter and have more contact surface area. Very easy to solder w/3rd hand holder and low-cost too. The EC3 and EC5 connectors are excellent in my opinion, because the plugs snap-in the plastic housings that are shaped differently for safety during plug-in -so can't reverse the pos/neg. These will also not easily disconnect, compared to most bullets, but do have a finger grip point to pull apart too. EC's are colored dark blue, so it's not "a busy" bright look where installed.

May be a good choice for a lower-profile look for viewing on the exterior of the eBike.

:mrgreen:

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by liveforphysics » Nov 22 2010 12:15am

The 4mm ones use the little round slitted spring contact thing right? I'm not too fond of that style either, it does seem to work well though.

You slide both wires through the plastic sheath, tin the tip of the wire, tin the connector, touch your iron to them to melt the tin'd spots together, then hold the plastic body and yank backwards on the wires, and the pins seat into the connector. Takes me about 1-2minutes to install one. If you don't have the plastic sleeve all ready on the wire and you put the pin on, you need to unsolder it and put the plastic over the wires first, you can't force it through the back without mangling the plastic.

Glad you've got a boost-iron. :) You will grow to love it. :)
Alan B wrote:I received the famous 20/130 watt TENMA soldering pencil, and some of the 4mm Turnigy battery type bullets with 2 terminal telescoping covers.

The soldering pencil looks good. Quality is impressive for $6. In my first use with #10 wire and 4mm bullets it did the job. Not as fast or easily as I expected. I'll hold judgement until I get more experience with it.

On the 4mm Turnigy bullets. I'm not impressed with the wimpy little spring contacts. Yes there are a few in parallel, but they don't have much current carrying cross section. We'll see how they do.

On the two pin bodies, how does one get the pins into the body? They don't want to push in from the back, and the hole is too small to take 10 gauge wire insulation through to solder them beyond and pull back. The 4mm terminals will accept 4mm wire, which is more copper than #10, so the fit is not great. Not sure yet how to make them work. I'm sure someone else on here can tell us how the insulator body should be installed.

On the whole, I have no idea why folks want to use soldered bullet connectors. It is absolutely a pain compared to crimping a proper connector with a good crimper. No wonder I haven't soldered a single Anderson since I got a good quality crimper. It has been so many years I forgot how not fun soldering them was. I jumped at the chance to buy a good Anderson crimper for only $50 after soldering them for years! These bullets have no decent mechanical grip on the wire. Their solder cup is very shallow. Solder wants to wick up the wire making it stiff. It takes time to heat them up. It is tricky to get a nice joint. It takes time to wait for them to cool. What a royal pain.

Bah humbullets!
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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by lifepo4ever » Nov 22 2010 12:30am

i just try today my 4mm bullet from hobbyking they hold tight very good with the bumpy road to more tape to hold them like before with the anderson pole but also
not easy to solder , the 10 gauge wire fit tight but next time I will be 6mm or 8mm one, because the problem i have if you put to much solder in the cup you fill the gap for the plastic seat of the connector anyway am still happy with these for now i can go off road no problem!!

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by Alan B » Nov 22 2010 1:29am

I was afraid of that (wire through and pull back). My 10ga wire won't even fit through the connector bodies with the insulation on. The insulation is too thick.

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by shorza » Nov 22 2010 3:12am

The Mighty Volt wrote:
No problem.

Your battery is probably good for 500-750w, with Amps at 10A to 20A. Those small wires should be ok for that sort of current.

Do you know what the C Rating of the cells in the battery are?


Lyen uses bigger wires as people use his controller for much bigger projects, so he makes sure the wire is bigger.

But this won't be a problem for you.
This is the battery: http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=43
and this is the motor: http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=27

The listing says the motor @ max output power draws 11.01 amps. Am I read it right?
So those wires should be ok?

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by liveforphysics » Nov 22 2010 4:50am

It will be fine. That motor spec sheet confuses controller amps with motor phase amps, but it doesn't matter, we know it works fine because there are thousands of examples of it working fine riding around on the streets.

shorza wrote:
The Mighty Volt wrote:
No problem.

Your battery is probably good for 500-750w, with Amps at 10A to 20A. Those small wires should be ok for that sort of current.

Do you know what the C Rating of the cells in the battery are?


Lyen uses bigger wires as people use his controller for much bigger projects, so he makes sure the wire is bigger.

But this won't be a problem for you.
This is the battery: http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=43
and this is the motor: http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=27

The listing says the motor @ max output power draws 11.01 amps. Am I read it right?
So those wires should be ok?
Each carcinogen vapor exposure includes a dice roll for cancer.

Each mutagen vapor exposure includes a dice roll for reproductive genetic defects in your children.

Each engine start sprays them into a shared atmosphere which includes beings not offered an opportunity to consent accepting these cancer experiences and defective genetics life experiences.

Every post is a free gift to the collective of minds composing the living bleeding edge of LEV development on our spaceship.

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by The Mighty Volt » Nov 22 2010 6:26pm

stock terminals on the older model of the X5304 {they now use Andersons} replaced by/with Spades.

Image

Image

Image

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by GCinDC » Nov 23 2010 10:38am

liveforphysics wrote:These little el-cheapo irons are the best thing to ever happen to soldering (except a heat-gun).

Idle's at 20w, just enough to keep the temp up, but not oxidize the tip. Hit the button when you're trying to solder big stuff, bam! 130w power. This is a 20w/130w version. I have a 15w/150w version which has lasted me years now, and I would pick it over the $1,000 soldering iron setups.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 602_263622
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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by The Mighty Volt » Nov 23 2010 10:48am

Just curious dudes.......I ordered two of these irons, does anyone have a safe and easy solution for stepping down 220 to 110, would a travel adapter cut it?

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by GCinDC » Nov 23 2010 10:51am

Alan B wrote:I was afraid of that (wire through and pull back). My 10ga wire won't even fit through the connector bodies with the insulation on. The insulation is too thick.
This is the technique I've been using. (I haven't gotten the feel of tinning the tip yet.)

I found that by dabbing the end of the 10AWG in flux (before stripping), it slides through the housing no problem! (Not sure if KY will work. You'd think you'd have to strip before sliding it in, but you don't...)
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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by lifepo4ever » Nov 23 2010 11:26am

GCinDC wrote:
Alan B wrote:I was afraid of that (wire through and pull back). My 10ga wire won't even fit through the connector bodies with the insulation on. The insulation is too thick.
This is the technique I've been using. (I haven't gotten the feel of tinning the tip yet.)

I found that by dabbing the end of the 10AWG in flux (before stripping), it slides through the housing no problem! (Not sure if KY will work. You'd think you'd have to strip before sliding it in, but you don't...)

yes ky is very important when its to tight and dry :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by novembersierra28 » Nov 23 2010 2:55pm

when in doubt, use the smell test, all it takes is a whif of smoke and something's up :shock:

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by amberwolf » Nov 23 2010 4:58pm

The Mighty Volt wrote:I ordered two of these irons, does anyone have a safe and easy solution for stepping down 220 to 110,
Wire both irons in series. ;) Safe, as long as you don't forget they're both on, and easy enough. :P

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by The Mighty Volt » Nov 23 2010 5:24pm

amberwolf wrote:
The Mighty Volt wrote:I ordered two of these irons, does anyone have a safe and easy solution for stepping down 220 to 110,
Wire both irons in series. ;) Safe, as long as you don't forget they're both on, and easy enough. :P
Yes.....you know what, that is what I will do. As one cools I can hop from iron to iron......doubling my work-rate!!!! :D :D

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by FMB42 » Nov 23 2010 6:13pm

The Mighty Volt wrote:Just curious dudes.......I ordered two of these irons, does anyone have a safe and easy solution for stepping down 220 to 110, would a travel adapter cut it?
Be safe and get a proper travel adapter for about $10 USD.

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by liveforphysics » Nov 23 2010 6:17pm

The Mighty Volt wrote:
amberwolf wrote:
The Mighty Volt wrote:I ordered two of these irons, does anyone have a safe and easy solution for stepping down 220 to 110,
Wire both irons in series. ;) Safe, as long as you don't forget they're both on, and easy enough. :P
Yes.....you know what, that is what I will do. As one cools I can hop from iron to iron......doubling my work-rate!!!! :D :D

As long as you always hit the boost button on both irons at the same time...


You can just put a half-wave diode bridge in-line with it. It doesn't care if it's getting DC or AC, and the energy would balance as if it were getting 110v.
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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by The Mighty Volt » Nov 23 2010 7:22pm

You know what I think I will just go back to "poker in the fire" method.....I did not foresee diodes in my future when I got into the business of prompting a cupro-plomo blend to melt onto some wire. :D :D

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Re: Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Post by novembersierra28 » Nov 23 2010 7:42pm

or 'my last broken 100w' soldering iron that broke' in the fire? I got mine red hot, lasted 30mins. soldered 6 tabs on, then added 95% alcohol and burnt an eyebrow off by accidentally getting too close to the coal fire *whooosh* :x
The Mighty Volt wrote:You know what I think I will just go back to "poker in the fire" method.....I did not foresee diodes in my future when I got into the business of prompting a cupro-plomo blend to melt onto some wire. :D :D

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