liveforphysics
100 TW
So, Methy received a giant load of 9C motors, including some 8x8's which are the best of the 9c motors for hot-rodding.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=24515
However, for the extreme hot-roders out there, 9C phase wires are small. Phase currents are large, often triple battery currents.
For motors running high-power setups, this makes phase wires get too hot, sometimes melting hall wires, sometimes melting the solder, sometimes leading to connector failures, etc. (Though amazingly, we were dumping 13-14kw into the bone stock motor and it didn't melt it's phase wires... but it would have if we had not given it a light duty-cycle to cool.)
I made a previous thread about upgrading 9c phase wires to 10awg, but I didn't take the time to share the procedure details of how to make it happen, and as a result, most folks who tried it failed badly.
The goal of this thread is to create greater success chances.
1. Remove the side cover (if you can't remove the side cover without help, quit reading this guide).
2. Cut off the hall sensor and phase wire plugs, cut the zip-ties etc, and pull them through to the inside of the stator (just somewhere out of the way, and be careful with the hall sensor wires).
3. While your axle path is bare, you've got 2 options to make 10awg work easily. Option #1. Replace the thicker-than-needed hall sensor wires with something very fine, like teflon 30awg wire. Option #2, run a drill down the bore of the axle, I think 3/8" works, but it's whatever drill size that just barely doesn't fit on it's own, you don't need to remove much material here, but removing a whisker makes things go much easier.
4. 10awg wire insulation is thick. Even the best teflon wire insulation is thicker than you can fit for 10awg. Shrink wrap is thin. You will need 3mm shrink wrap if you're going to fit 10awg. 10awg wire can BARELY tuck into 3mm shrink, you need to first straighten the strands out.
5. With the strands straightened, you can just barely slide 3mm shrink up over the 10awg wire. If you use 4 or 5mm shrink, when it shrinks the wall thickness was actually too much for me to get it through (without doing the above tricks of drilling a bit, or replacing the hall wires.) Notice the different shrink sizes end up as different diameters when shunk down, with the bottom wire being thin-insulation marine 10awg.
6. When you slide the wire length needed into the shrink, leave an 8" un-stuffed shrink pigtail hanging. Seems like a waste of shrink, but this will come in very handy later.
7. Melt those 3 pigtails of shrink together.
8. Fish the un-stuffed pigtail bundle of 3 through (making sure the phase wires are all ready through the axle, and I zip-tie them off to the side to hold them out of the way). The 3 shrink pigtails should slide through easily.
9. Now you can gently tug the pigtail end while pushing on the wire stuffed end to get the wire section through. A little soap on the insulation helps to prevent chaffing, and then can be washed out when it's time to epoxy them (to prevent a chaffing/vibration type failure over time.)
10. Solder up your connection to the motor windings, shrink, and epoxy them into place. I also epoxied down the axle, and on both sides of the axle's exit. This keeps the wires stable so the thin shrink doesn't fail from chaffing over time.
Put your cover back on, re-solder up the hall plug, mount your phase connectors, and enjoy never worrying about melting your phase wires.
**Note** This is not easy.
**Note** Non-extreme hot-rodders don't need to do this.
Enjoy.
-Luke
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=24515
However, for the extreme hot-roders out there, 9C phase wires are small. Phase currents are large, often triple battery currents.
For motors running high-power setups, this makes phase wires get too hot, sometimes melting hall wires, sometimes melting the solder, sometimes leading to connector failures, etc. (Though amazingly, we were dumping 13-14kw into the bone stock motor and it didn't melt it's phase wires... but it would have if we had not given it a light duty-cycle to cool.)
I made a previous thread about upgrading 9c phase wires to 10awg, but I didn't take the time to share the procedure details of how to make it happen, and as a result, most folks who tried it failed badly.
The goal of this thread is to create greater success chances.
1. Remove the side cover (if you can't remove the side cover without help, quit reading this guide).
2. Cut off the hall sensor and phase wire plugs, cut the zip-ties etc, and pull them through to the inside of the stator (just somewhere out of the way, and be careful with the hall sensor wires).
3. While your axle path is bare, you've got 2 options to make 10awg work easily. Option #1. Replace the thicker-than-needed hall sensor wires with something very fine, like teflon 30awg wire. Option #2, run a drill down the bore of the axle, I think 3/8" works, but it's whatever drill size that just barely doesn't fit on it's own, you don't need to remove much material here, but removing a whisker makes things go much easier.
4. 10awg wire insulation is thick. Even the best teflon wire insulation is thicker than you can fit for 10awg. Shrink wrap is thin. You will need 3mm shrink wrap if you're going to fit 10awg. 10awg wire can BARELY tuck into 3mm shrink, you need to first straighten the strands out.
5. With the strands straightened, you can just barely slide 3mm shrink up over the 10awg wire. If you use 4 or 5mm shrink, when it shrinks the wall thickness was actually too much for me to get it through (without doing the above tricks of drilling a bit, or replacing the hall wires.) Notice the different shrink sizes end up as different diameters when shunk down, with the bottom wire being thin-insulation marine 10awg.
6. When you slide the wire length needed into the shrink, leave an 8" un-stuffed shrink pigtail hanging. Seems like a waste of shrink, but this will come in very handy later.
7. Melt those 3 pigtails of shrink together.
8. Fish the un-stuffed pigtail bundle of 3 through (making sure the phase wires are all ready through the axle, and I zip-tie them off to the side to hold them out of the way). The 3 shrink pigtails should slide through easily.
9. Now you can gently tug the pigtail end while pushing on the wire stuffed end to get the wire section through. A little soap on the insulation helps to prevent chaffing, and then can be washed out when it's time to epoxy them (to prevent a chaffing/vibration type failure over time.)
10. Solder up your connection to the motor windings, shrink, and epoxy them into place. I also epoxied down the axle, and on both sides of the axle's exit. This keeps the wires stable so the thin shrink doesn't fail from chaffing over time.
Put your cover back on, re-solder up the hall plug, mount your phase connectors, and enjoy never worrying about melting your phase wires.
**Note** This is not easy.
**Note** Non-extreme hot-rodders don't need to do this.
Enjoy.
-Luke
I know what you are saying though. I wouldn't know a tweet if it smacked me upside the head. I send maybe 60 texts a month, my wife 600, my daughter 6000 
