, a good thread-read is the 2WD (Two-Wheel Drive) FAQ
You can do this with One battery pack, One throttle, One 3-Way & Cruise & EBrake using Two controllers paralleled, Two motors individually tied to each controller, and Two CAs - one for each.
The overall power is divided somewhat arbitrarily between the two controllers depending on load.
- Going uphill, both will pull evenly.
- On somewhat of a flat whilst in Cruise Control, one will take the lead and the other will go into "slip mode"; pull enough current so that it essentially freewheels... however on the slightest increase in load - it will pick up the slack until Cruise cannot be held.
- Rarely do they go into contention. I beat that by setting the power a little stronger on the RWD, and by having a smaller tire on the rear - so even on a flat, both wheels turn at different rates and that seems enough to fool the controllers.
I don't measure Amps; I measure pack Voltage because the shunts have been modified by trace-beefing and I do not have equipment capable of measuring scant ohms accurately, so I just measure voltage. I know the battery capacity, I know from experience how to set the amount of theoretical current to the wheels, and thus am able to calculate roughly the overall power consumption. The CAs validate this by using Miles per charge; I know how many miles I should have covered by x-amount of voltage drop - which is not exactly linear, but then I understand that too.
During the winter I get less production cos of the studded tires + cold weather; seems like 20% less capacity. I'm about to test a new theory though with the impending tire swap: Use new tubes w/o Slime
FWIW, my DD 2WD is operating less than 4 hp. Specifically -
The Base configuration for my RWD is 24.2A Batt/60.8A Phase
And the FWD is 20A Batt/51.2A Phase.
Total Amps are 44.2 Battery & 75.4A Phase; 44.2A x 63.3V (when Batts are hot) about 2800 W or 3.75 hp.
I don't run at 100% though: The 3-Way is set to 52%, 86%, & 120% for Street-Legal Speed (used maybe twice), normal cross-country & commuting, and Speed-Testing. So at 86% the maximum power is about 3.2 hp; with the FWD pulling at 45% - that's about 1.45 horses up front, and 1.77 in the rear.
It doesn't have any problem climbing or getting warm after a good long hard ride.
Considering that I don't know the shunt values - this is all hypothetical. The other way to calculate consumption is to measure the battery pack against miles using voltage:
I have 5S1P 5Ah Zippy FlightMax Qty-18, arranged in 15S6P -> 63.3V @ 30Ah -> 1899 potential Watt-Hours. This pack can take me 50 Seattle/hilly miles on a single charge & I've done it multiple times. On a flat - it might take me 70-80 miles; I just don't know. However we can extrapolate that I am getting about 1.67 miles per Ah... up to a point to where battery mass affects performance. Case in point: I went 167 miles on a single charge carrying 100 lbs. of LiPo cross-country in a 15S26P configuration; 167 miles/130Ah = 1.28 miles/Ah. Not that good - but then I was facing head winds between San Rafael & Fort Bragg.
Your performance is relative by your choice of motors, bike frame, riding style, commitment to pedal, terrain, weather, caloric uptake, health, and especially the size of wire between batteries-controllers-motors + and the quality of the connectors.
Anyway - that's longwinded
Good hunting & safe travels, KF