Sure, might be a little bit, gotta go feed dogs and stuff.cassschr1 wrote:can you put a few pic of the circut board up
There is no knurling on this roller, it's only two shallow v-grooves circumferential to the roller's outer face, one smaller and one larger, flipping the roller over uses one or the other, to no change in effect either way. I can't get a picture of it that close, but I described it best I could here and before.Gordo wrote:The drive rollers need to be clean and the knurled one needs to be sharp. I have had to file mine carefully with a fine 3 corner file, to get all the crud out of it. You should see the imprint of the knurled roller on the wire as it comes out of the pistol.
If you're referring to the spring-coil type tube I describe in my post above, and is pictured (badly) in the first post, it's certainly possible that it is not making contact with the wire properly due to corrosion or oxidation or whatever.My steel welder has a "Bowden Cable", like the outer portion of an old throttle cable. If clean, sharp rollers can't push the wire, you have probably arced a spot inside the liner and the only solution is to replace the liner. I had to do this for the first time on my current welder, just last year.
Since I only use .030 flux core steel wire, it's not that. Certainly could be stuff on the steel wire that gets left behind on the liner, but passes the white glove test (same stuff both before and after passing thru it).For those welding both Al and steel with the same machine, we always changed the liner when we switch from one to the other. If you run Al though a snorkel previously used for steel, little bits of steel will sometimes cause fireworks and will definitely contribute to a poor Al weld.
Bend the grandkids at a 270 degree angle... they'll get the messagegwhy! wrote:Im no expert with welders or welding but I think I would replace the liner as my el-cheapo welder has started to do a very similar thing ever since the grandkids were bending the cable at right angles .. I was not happy
You've got a Harborfreight... I've got one of those. I had the same problem regarding feed speed. I solved it by shaving the plastic post with a razor blade so that the tightening screw can tighten closer on the wire. Now it works "most" of the time. I also put a teflon washer on the spool, and after constant adjusting, you "should" get it to consistently spin out the wire without it loosening up like crazy and creating a bird's nest. Harbor freight welders sucks by the way. Use it with the mods I just told you, and you should be ok for a while, but for serious jobs, I'm saving up for a tig welder... I edited one of your photos to show you where I did my mods.amberwolf wrote:I stuck this in Ebike techinicall because this is directly related to my ebike build here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 28&t=31255
in that if I can't fix this welder, I can't finish the bike. (or about a zillion other projects I've been putting off mostly because this welder simply doesn't work well enough for long enough to do them).
PReviously, I had electrical problems with it, where it'd stutter power during arcing, and that turned out to be (I think) the thermal cutoff on teh transformer. Taking it out of circuit and shorting across the supply wires to it apperas to have fixed that problem. The main power switch is also bypassed, though I don't think it's the problem.
Now, the mechanical parts of the feed mechanism are giving me grief. Basically, the total amount of friction in the feed tube up to the electrode grip and inside the electrode itself are enough to stop the feed of wire, even if I hold it out straight (although that improves it). The worst is at the electrodes, after a few short welds, even after cooldown, but there's no way I can afford to keep using new electrode tips every inch or two of weld!
There has to be a reason that these specific things are happening, and something I can do to fix it.
I *think* that because it doesnt' feed constantly, it arcs and gets hot inside the electrode, and leaves bits behind on the electrode tip itself, causing further friction, worse sticking, and eventually it just jams so bad I have to unscrew the tip, yank the wire out, cut it off, and run a bit back and forth inside to clear some of that out (or replace the tip in cases I can't).
It's possible that the quality of the flux-core steel welding wire itself is poor, with variations in drawn diameter, making the problem worse, but I haven't got any other stuff to work with, so I don't know if other better (probably lots more expensive) wire would help. I can only get it when Harbor Freight puts the stuff on sale for $10, half price of it's usual, and that's really rare.
If I could make the feed mechanism keep good grip on the wire as it pushes it into the feed tube, instead of slipping when friction gets too high, it'd feed properly, regardless of friction. I just dont' know how to do that.
I have considered filing vertical cross-notches in the horizontal feed-groove in the feed-wheel, to give it something to "catch" the wire with, but I'm not sure that would change anything.
I suppose so; I don't know how hard the steel is. It's easily possible that the sharp edges on the groove have become rounded, too.Gordo wrote:If the feed rollers are soft crap, is it possible that the grove for moving the wire has become deeper?
It seems to have quite a bit of torque, so that's probably not much of a problem. I'd only be worried about blowing the little regulator in the speed control for it.If so, reducing the circumference of the roller will effectively make the grove shallower and will pinch the wire more. Either take the roller off and use a bolt with nut to hold it in a drill motor while you file it down, or if you can get the file in the welder, use the drive to turn it while you file it. The little MM motor may not be able to handle very much pressure on the file?
I'm already calling around to local welding shops, though so far I either get no answer or I get put on hold, or told that the guy I need to talk to is not in right now and I should try back later (but they wont' say which guy it is). I figure I'm getting a runaround or just messed with, cuz that tends to happen a lot, so I'll just keep trying different places till I get lucky or run out of places or time.Last bright idea is to look at a Lincoln or Hobart to see if the knurled rollers are the same dimensions and will fit. Maybe get lucky and get a used roller at the welding shop from a blownup rig?
All the ones I've seen at the HF store are smooth just like mine (the feed mechanism appears to be identical in all of their wire-feed welders, AFAICT).Maybe someone else with a HF welder can look at there rollers to see if they are smooth or there is a knurled one in it?
No, it was always just liek it is (except that it is possible the edges of the groove used to be sharp and have become rounded; I never looked *that* closely at it to be able to tell).texaspyro wrote:I wonder if your smooth roller started out life with a crappy sino-knurl that has now worn off?
I may have to try that.ebike_rocket wrote:I solved it by shaving the plastic post with a razor blade so that the tightening screw can tighten closer on the wire.
I dont' seem to have a problem with the reel's tension getting too high, but I have some pretty slick plastic I've used for similar things on bikes that I can try for this. (it's from clip-strips that products hang on around retail stores). I don't have any actual teflon washers that I know of, so it'll have to do.I also put a teflon washer on the spool, and after constant adjusting, you "should" get it to consistently spin out the wire without it loosening up like crazy and creating a bird's nest.
No kidding?Harbor freight welders sucks by the way.
I've had good results swapping out the tips for Lincoln wire weld tips from home depot, and I've generally used the mild steel wire from home depot as well. Not sure if I'd touch HF wire...amberwolf wrote:So are mine, with the HF wire, but it's all I have right now. I was hoping to actually talk to at least one welder supply place today, but the results from my last post continued until i got tired of trying, and worked on other things more productive for a while.
Tomorrow I will try again. I wish I had someone local that was buddies with a shop; I could probably at least get the info I am after, if not the parts and/or wire. I don't seem to communicate very well with these people (and it doesn't help that I mostly don't know terminology and such).
I think after i get the dogs fed and stuff I will see about using a complete bike brake or shifter cable housing instead of the liner that's there now, and also use some of the metal part from such a housing in place of the coilspring tube in the grip. Maybe one or the other will help the problem.
But first, I have to find my spare tips, cuz I have misplaced them and the existing one is pretty well trashed.
(and it doesn't help that I mostly don't know terminology and such).
How will you clean the lubricant out of the bike cable? It will play hell with the weld.amberwolf wrote: I think after i get the dogs fed and stuff I will see about using a complete bike brake or shifter cable housing instead of the liner that's there now, and also use some of the metal part from such a housing in place of the coilspring tube in the grip. Maybe one or the other will help the problem.
I dunno either as I was going to suggest gasoline, but you better run soapy water through it after. "Thinking of you with a flaming hot potato in your hand."amberwolf wrote:I dunno, almost anything would be better than the way it does now.