I can get into a pretty good tuck position. Thanks to my cruiser type seat, I can put my butt behind the seat and rest my hamstrings on the sides of the seat and it works. I've heard some people say that they can't get behind their fairings. I believe I'd be able to get behind any fairing shown above with my cruiser seat. I did make some slight angle changes on the plastic seat using a heat gun and removed some of the structural plastic bracing as it was set up for a 300+lb dude. The plastic now gives more and is more back friendly.lazarus2405 wrote:The simplest way to reduce drag would be to simply get in a better position. That means a recumbent, or for us on mountain bikes, an aerodynamic tuck. A "superman tuck" with aero bars would work wonders. Perhaps when my setup runs again, I'll check out what my lbs has.
I knew I was on the right track! Me and BMW!paultrafalgar wrote:O.K. Let's brainstorm - Borrow a Quest or Mango (velomobile) spray with silicone to make a release material - lay a sheet of polyethylene film over it - spray on glue - stick a layer of bubblewrap to that - spray on glue - stick another sheet of polythene to that - allow to dry - cut lengthways - remove velomobile - duct tape the 2 halves together - swathe around own recumbent trike - fit tight fitting collar from neck to cockpit rim - inflate - Viola! One boil-in-a-bag cyclist!TylerDurden wrote:...paultrafalgar wrote:I've often wondered if you could make a fairing by having a double skin of, say polypropylene or polyethylene, and pumping it up to a high pressure. The weigh would be low and it would be rigid to promote lamellar flow. What d'ya think?
Inflatables can be quite strong, but I'm not sure they'd be any easier to DIY than rigid materials.
What d'ya think?
The speed record for human powered is 80 mph, so I think a 750 watt rule is fair. Such a machine would be totally impractical and dangerous (cars can't see you) so you wouldn't be able to use it for much, but for straight line speed that's the way to go.kbarrett wrote:The proper answer to most cops in the US is "20 MPH without pedaling on a flat", and under 750 watts.
That is a No-com (No Compromises). They are $8,000 and, believe it or not, require some finishing to make them road worthy.truckerzero wrote:here is a picture of the type of low racer that could cut power consumption in half and dramaticly increas top speed what do you think?
Amen. Note how my e-bike and my road bike (when on the hoods) are pretty similar in terms of drop from the saddle to the handlebars. I attempted to align these photos such that the wheels were level with the bottom of the image.Mathurin wrote:Some upright bikes by order of speed on road.
Note the general trend in saddle to bar drop, faster bikes generally have more of it and the slowest bikes have negative drop. Hybrid before the XC because the XC places the rider a lot better.
BTW, the blades on the BT go for ~3K each.
Not sure if my bike is considered a low racer, but i sit the same height on my bike as a driver in a car.recumpence wrote:High recumbents are fine in the real world. Lowracers are the problem. You have to scout the ideal road before you ride it.