Hubzilla is being a brat

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Alan B   100 GW

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Alan B » Jun 17 2012 11:11pm

The color coding matches Lyen's controllers.

Infineon controllers from different vendors are not always the same, as far as I have seen. So generalizing to all Infineons is likely to be false.

Gow864   100 W

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Gow864 » Jun 17 2012 11:11pm

Kiwi wrote:ok.
So, i fired up reverse, and tried riding the bike, and it miss fired. SO, I must have a hall issue.
Hence why it would not work in forward. All halls show up on the tester, but sometimes I have found a hall that is not giving out high enough voltage to trigger the controller, but enough for the led on the tester.
Damn.
Kiwi, thanks for that bit of testing. I'll assume that mine is doing the same. I've got 3 new halls on the way to me, hopefully I'll have them tomorrow or Wednesday...

Gow.

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Alan B » Jun 17 2012 11:13pm

I would put a scope or DVM on those signals before taking it apart.

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Kiwi   1 kW

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Kiwi » Jun 17 2012 11:17pm

my halls checked out, all putting out a clean 5v......swapping controller....
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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Kiwi » Jun 17 2012 11:39pm

new controller, all good. Clean forward. Will mount and test ride....
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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Kiwi » Jun 19 2012 12:14am

new controller, same issues. A bit better, rough off the mark, smoother once up to speed but a oscillating power, and not impressive. Still not right, so what is it? Can the controller not handle it?
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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by zombiess » Jun 19 2012 2:49am

If you are using a cycle analyst, disconnect it, then try again. If it's a hall issue a sensorless controller should drive it.

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Gow864 » Jun 19 2012 3:45am

I've just purchased an sensorless controller (thanks Hyena). I'll test it with that before i change the halls.

Gow.

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by zombiess » Jun 19 2012 10:06am

Kiwi, is your motor from the very first batch that was sold last year? Not the ones being sold now?

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Kiwi   1 kW

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Kiwi » Jun 20 2012 6:29pm

Its fresh, got it about 4 weeks ago.
I have a sensorless contoller from xlyte, will try that.

Its like some sort of timing issue, once up to speed, its not too bad, but I can tell its not right. But off the mark it barks and growls and rumbles.
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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Gow864 » Jun 24 2012 5:46pm

Managed to run my cromotor with a sensorless controller. It runs smooth and strong. Although, I've never used a sensorless controller, so I assume that losing sync under hard acceleration is normal? Anyway, it seems that all the phases are good, So now I'll change the hall sensors.

Cheers,
Gow.

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by DesignerDan » Jul 05 2012 8:18pm

>Got new controller (Kelly Controller)
>Wire it up
>Try throttle
>get error code: "Motor did not start. Check phase and hall wires"
>Sad face
>Me too lazy to try all 36 combinations
>Turn to forum for help

Which would be a better bet? Trying all 36 combinations or just replace the halls? Considering hubzilla uses the same exact hall plug as the kelly controller, it seems ridiculous that I have to chop off the connector and rearrange all the wires. Why even bother putting a connector on the hall wires if it's not even going to be in the right combination. I would rather have no connector at all then have one but with the wrong wiring combo.

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by DesignerDan » Jul 05 2012 8:59pm

I got it working! To thank endless sphere for putting up with me I'll contribute what color combo gave me a clean forward.

Phase wires. Controller:Motor

Blue:Yellow
Yellow:Green
Green:Blue

Hall wires. Controller:Motor

Yellow:Yellow
Green:Blue
Blue:Green

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by briangv99 » Jul 06 2012 12:31am

Hi Dan,

which model Kelly did you get? torque throttle that Kelly will do is something I'm very keen to have once I get my Cromotor/Warp running.

cheers,

Brian

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by DesignerDan » Jul 06 2012 10:35am

I got this one:
http://kellycontroller.com/kbs72121l50a ... -1175.html
It seems to be perfect for hubzilla. 4000 continuous watts and 10,000 burst watts.

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fractal   1 kW

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by fractal » Jul 06 2012 10:45am

DesignerDan wrote:I got this one:
http://kellycontroller.com/kbs72121l50a ... -1175.html
It seems to be perfect for hubzilla. 4000 continuous watts and 10,000 burst watts.
Dont mean to be OT, but can you fit a CA on those?
Norco A-line DH bike with :
«cromotor/hubzilla» from http://www.greyborg.com/
24s 3p Lipo (100v, 15ah)
Methods LVC/HVC cell level protection system http://www.methtek.com
24 fet infineon controller made by Lyen, heavily moded by Methods
8awg harness by Icecube57
17 inch moped rims with Michelin Gazelle tires by John Rob Holmes http://www.holmeshobbies.com
other stuff http://www.ebikes.ca

details
http://www.helicamguide.com

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by DesignerDan » Jul 06 2012 10:21pm

There's no direct plug-in but the install is pretty simple. The black and red whites go to the battery pack + and -. The white and blue are the current senor wires and need to be connected to an external shunt. I'll be buying this one: http://www.ebikes.ca/store/photos/Shunt0.5.jpg
The yellow is speed sensor and connects to a hall sensor wire and I honestly don't know what the green wire is for. lol But I will find out and wire it up and see how it all works.

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Gow864 » Jul 21 2012 1:22am

I replaced the halls in my cromotor. It was originally misfiring and had no torque. I put in honeywell 41a's. The result: No more misfiring runs smooth and has torque.....BUT, It will still from a dead start lose sync! doesn't seem to be a problem if it is already rolling. Any Ideas???? I'm going to re-program it as i can't remember what I set it to, but I'm not convinced I'm going to fix it by reprogramming.

Not sure what to do from here, I guess I'll have to source and try another controller.

Some notes on the original halls:
The slot that had been cut to fit the halls had burrs created during the cutting process. These burrs were folded back in once the halls were fitted, then encapsulated. In general it's fair to assume that something in this arrangement was causing a short and the misfiring. (that's my theory anyway) I cleaned off the burrs with my finger!

Gow.

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Kiwi » Jul 22 2012 4:57pm

Thats progress, what controller are you running.
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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Gow864 » Jul 22 2012 5:02pm

Kiwi wrote:Thats progress, what controller are you running.
It's a Lyen 184110. I'm away form the bike for a couple of days. I'll try fiddling with the settings when I get back.

Gow.

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Gow864 » Jul 31 2012 2:55am

Well my problems with the cromotor seems to be over. new halls, programming adjustment and all is good.

Gow.

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nicobie   10 MW

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by nicobie » Jul 31 2012 1:18pm

That's good to hear.

What values did you settle on when programming the controller?
Take it easy... but take it. (Woody Guthrie)

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Blackssr » Jul 31 2012 4:43pm

DesignerDan wrote:I got it working! To thank endless sphere for putting up with me I'll contribute what color combo gave me a clean forward.

Phase wires. Controller:Motor

Blue:Yellow
Yellow:Green
Green:Blue

Hall wires. Controller:Motor

Yellow:Yellow
Green:Blue
Blue:Green
How did you end up with this combo, may I ask? Trial and error, luck or was it a detailed proceedure? I was thinking of buying Hubzilla and a Lyen 12 fet controller but really would hate to deal with guessing the correct configuration.

Thanks in Advance,

Mike
SRT 8 Challenger or Ebike?... Ebike for now!

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by hillzofvalp » Jul 31 2012 7:10pm

my cromotor was true to color on my lyen 18fet. worked first time. hope this helps.

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Alan B   100 GW

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Re: Hubzilla is being a brat

Post by Alan B » Jul 31 2012 7:36pm

The procedure for finding correct wiring is documented elsewhere on these forums.

Straight wiring worked on my Lyen/Cromotor setup.

Note that this is a three phase system, there are three equivalent wiring combinations that are rotations of one another. The correct solution is not unique.

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