e-Brake switch: Can it simultaneously activate brake lights?

MattyCiii

MattyCiii

100 kW
Joined
May 5, 2007
Messages
1,374
Location
Boston, MA, USA
Hydraulic brake experts - I need help!

I've installed the BionX Press Switch for Magura brakes. It worked as designed at first, then started to be "always active". Since I can't ride around with the controller always thinking I have my brake on, I've unplugged the switch for now.
107_0.jpg


If I adjust my lever throw to its most relaxed position, the brake works fine. But of course the brakes don't work so well!

I'm wondering:
1) Could this be a sign there's a little air in the system I need to bleed out (I don't think so myself, but just asking)
2) Conversely, would the introduction of a little air bubble into the system give me pressure relief at rest - that allows for the brake to only activate when I throw the handle?

I have another hydraulic switch I can try, but I don't want to jump to trying that since it will requiring another installation and system bleed...

Some more details here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37964&p=619563#p619353
(Started this thread since it's clear it's not a CA problem).
 
Maybe this is the way to do it: Bleed the brakes, and in the very last step pull the rake handle in about 10mm before sealing it all up. This would leave about 10mm of throw in the handle before pressure starts to build in the system, yes?
 
Did you ever find a solution to this?
 
Yes thanks for asking.

I wrote up some comments here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=39928&start=60#p653224

Basically, I swapped out the switch for another one. Was my first switch bad? I may never know (I shelved the switch, might test it again some day). But I might have installed it wrong (not likely, not too much to the install) or I may have bled the system wrong (bleeding is a PITA - but I suppose a bad bleed would mean an under-sensitive, not over sensitive system).

The new/second switch works perfectly. I did cut the barrel connector off and replace it with a CAv3 JST connector, I suppose I could just have easily made a barrel - to - JST adapter, or re-terminated the CAv3, but the choice I made was to hack up the pressure switch end of things.


Funny thing, riding so long without a cutoff switch I have really trained myself to let go of the throttle whenever I sense trouble. The throttle is a 1/2 grip on the left side. That said, it's nice to know that should something go wrong, my right hand can cut power simply by squeezing the right side brake.

~Matt
 
MattyCiii said:
Yes thanks for asking.

I wrote up some comments here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=39928&start=60#p653224

Basically, I swapped out the switch for another one. Was my first switch bad? I may never know (I shelved the switch, might test it again some day). But I might have installed it wrong (not likely, not too much to the install) or I may have bled the system wrong (bleeding is a PITA - but I suppose a bad bleed would mean an under-sensitive, not over sensitive system).

The new/second switch works perfectly. I did cut the barrel connector off and replace it with a CAv3 JST connector, I suppose I could just have easily made a barrel - to - JST adapter, or re-terminated the CAv3, but the choice I made was to hack up the pressure switch end of things.


Funny thing, riding so long without a cutoff switch I have really trained myself to let go of the throttle whenever I sense trouble. The throttle is a 1/2 grip on the left side. That said, it's nice to know that should something go wrong, my right hand can cut power simply by squeezing the right side brake.

~Matt
Click to expand...


No sir, Thank YOU! for following up with my question :mrgreen:

I'm exploring options for my wife's bike since I will switching all of our brakes to hydraulic. I personally don't need the cutoff unless I'm using CC and I'm getting used to blipping the throttle and taking control of the speed manually on a constant basis. But I do understand the need for panic stops and motor cuts.

I'd like to wire up a mechanical switch for my own bike, but for the wife, I'd like to keep it clean. I think I will just run one side for her and make sure it's attached to the brake she uses most (I hope it's the front, but haven't asked)
 
I would definitely suggest having the e-brake cutoff - if using only one - on the brake opposite the throttle.

This adventure with the folding bike was a rehearsal. My Norco A-Line will have much more power, and hydraulics front and rear. I bought either 4 or 5 of those switches originally (is it bad I can't remember?). So I plan to have hydro switches on both brakes on the Norco. I mean, the damn thing looks like a motorcycle already, and handles like one. I want all the safety I can afford since I plan to take it up to at least 40mph, and electron gods be willing, up to or past 50.

I like the fact that it's 100% enclosed. Waterproof. Nothing really to get snagged on something (Vs say a micro switch).

When I get off my butt and wire up the Norco, I'll post in this thread how successful I am... hopefully my first experience was just a defective switch and the next two will be smooth sailing!
 
MattyCiii said:
I would definitely suggest having the e-brake cutoff - if using only one - on the brake opposite the throttle.

This adventure with the folding bike was a rehearsal. My Norco A-Line will have much more power, and hydraulics front and rear. I bought either 4 or 5 of those switches originally (is it bad I can't remember?). So I plan to have hydro switches on both brakes on the Norco. I mean, the damn thing looks like a motorcycle already, and handles like one. I want all the safety I can afford since I plan to take it up to at least 40mph, and electron gods be willing, up to or past 50.

I like the fact that it's 100% enclosed. Waterproof. Nothing really to get snagged on something (Vs say a micro switch).

When I get off my butt and wire up the Norco, I'll post in this thread how successful I am... hopefully my first experience was just a defective switch and the next two will be smooth sailing!
Click to expand...

Hahhaa... that's actually smart that you bought that many in anticipation and to save on shipping costs. Good point about being waterproof. I'll get them for my wife to maintain the clean look that I'm going for. For my personal bike, I think I'll play around with rigging up a reed type switch so I can make it waterproof.

I'm surprised that there's only one website that carries that product though.
 
Hi all-
Jacking my own thread here.

I got the pressure switch to work, and work great. Now I want to see if I can use the same switch to activate a pair of rear LED brake lights.

The switch is notmally open circuit, closed circuit when the brake is applied. I have it plugged into the CA presently. What I was hoping would work is, connect another circuit in line with the brake pressure switch such that a totally separate, ~3.7v circuit is complete when the brake switch is pushed. The 3v would be provided from an independent power source (1s LiPo) - so both ground and (+) are independent of the electrics already going through the switch.

Would this work? Do I risk damage to the CA?

I have extra switches. One can make the argument that I should just install a separate switch on the brake line near the rear of the bike - the switch would be totally independent, and it would mean not having to run a wire from the handlebars to the rear of the bike.

What do you think?
 
GrayKard said:
Couple of questions. Did you install that brake switch T in the front brake line?
Click to expand...
Yes.

GrayKard said:
If so did you change the front brakes from your Hayes to the Maguras?
Click to expand...
Yes, this is on the folding bike where I have a Magura HS33 on the rear.

Thanks for the advice and concern. The one thing none of us want to see is a fellow ES member blazing down the road on two wheels with time bombs for breaks! :oops:
 
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