Bafang motor

I'm curious about this too. How do they compare to a MAC 10t? Are they half as good?

This is the one I'm looking at.
http://www.greenbikekit.com/index.php/bpm-48v-500w-100.html

How does this one compare to those two?
http://www.greenbikekit.com/index.php/bafang-cst-bldc-motor.html

If anyone has any experience with these, please do tell. I've done some searches and only found a little info.
 
My experience of abusing a Bafang SWXH for the past couple of years has been that it's pretty reliable. Fairly quiet, too. Not earth shattering in terms of performance, but a nice little motor all the same.
 
MD. said:
I'm curious about this too. How do they compare to a MAC 10t? Are they half as good?

This is the one I'm looking at.
http://www.greenbikekit.com/index.php/bpm-48v-500w-100.html

How does this one compare to those two?
http://www.greenbikekit.com/index.php/bafang-cst-bldc-motor.html

If anyone has any experience with these, please do tell. I've done some searches and only found a little info.
I have both of those motors. They are the same inside and give the same power. All the Bafang BPPMs are very robust. They'll run happily at 35 amps with a 36v battery or 12S lipos, and will climb just about any hill even if you weigh more than 100kg. They're also relatively quiet and become even quieter with age. The main problem is to find one with the right speed winding for what you want. They're often too slow or too fast. Although you can always make them go proportionally faster with a higher voltage battery.
 
Thanks guys for the fantastic input. I hate to be one of those guys that hijacks threads, but I feel this is still on the original topic and I'm guessing the original poster might want to know the same info I do.

Since these are similar/same on the inside, I'm thinking I'd go with the kit with controller and all. It's a bit cheaper and comes with a bunch of extras. I'm currently using a threaded freewheel on another conversion and am not sure the advantage of using the cartridge style. Is there a huge benefit from using the cartridge style over the threaded freewheel? Obviously I could take the one off that came with the bike. Any other reason?

I plan on running this on a hard tail MTB for use off road. The bike has a 26" rim. Planning on 12s lipo and can go up to 15s if necessary. What RPM would you recommend, the 216 or 332? I'm thinking the 216 due to wheel size, I'll need more off road torque, and I really don't "think" I need more than 15-20mph offroad.

Thoughts?
 
The main advantage of the CST motor, with the cassette, over the BPM motor (the same motor but with a freewheel thread), is that the cassette allows a wider gear range. The tallest gear on a freewheel is 12T, and then only on one type that may not be the best in terms of quality. Most normal freewheels only go down to 14T. Cassettes allow you to go down to 11T I believe, and the extra tall gearing is useful at the higher speeds an ebike is capable of. There's also a wider range of good quality cassettes, as most freewheels available now seem to be at the budget end in terms of overall quality.
 
Jeremy Harris said:
The main advantage of the CST motor, with the cassette, over the BPM motor (the same motor but with a freewheel thread), is that the cassette allows a wider gear range. The tallest gear on a freewheel is 12T, and then only on one type that may not be the best in terms of quality. Most normal freewheels only go down to 14T. Cassettes allow you to go down to 11T I believe, and the extra tall gearing is useful at the higher speeds an ebike is capable of. There's also a wider range of good quality cassettes, as most freewheels available now seem to be at the budget end in terms of overall quality.

I want to also add that the CST will fit 8 or 9 gears into 135mm dropouts. Nice to have so you don't need to change shifters etc. and yes 11T cassettes seem to be common.

CSTbpm010.jpg

Gary
 
My Bafang experience :

I use my bike to go to work, 70km a day. Sometimes I do not sleep at home and do +100km a day. I use the bike all the year.
I've done 14000km with a rear 24V @48V. Then done 8000km with a front 24V (broke the motor in an accident) and then use a 36V for around 2000km and now reusing a 24V @48V since two months.

First understand I have only 48V batteries and the motors in 24V or 36V are overvolted. I've opened the 8000km 24V after the accident and the nylon planearies are in perfect shape :

Moteur8000km_2012-06-02%2012.07.36.jpg


Moteur8000kmPignons_2012-06-02%2011.26.26.jpg


You can see spot of rust but I use the bike under heavy rain and sometimes in 30cm of salted water in the sea... If I broke one motor, this is not an affair because under one month not using my car it's paid.

In 48V on my every day 35/37km trip :
- the 24V eat around 1000W in continuous, 12Ah in summer 20Ah in winter at 42km/h average speed
- the 36V is very economic motor at 7W/ kilometer, around 10Ah in winter, not tested in summer, at 33km/h average speed.

I read here and here that motors are fragile because of the planetaries, I do not think so. After more than 10000km and still running well, how can you say it's not reliable ? What is reliable for you ?

Comparing the performance of the 24V @48V and the 36V @48V my mind is the 36V is an electric bike, the 24V is more like an electric scooter : it's faster, you need good brakes and you have to pay close attention !

I cannot compare with another motors, but for my usage it's ok. The motors are cheap, simple, very reliable in my practical point of view.
 
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