Not sure, will have to wait for a new 24FetYkick wrote:What's the CA show for no load Amps?
Ya mean something like this, barely any throttle under loadYkick wrote:But don't flog it WOT until you know it's right as that can be a bad thing.
I know, very sad...jpgey wrote:Bad news Pete
I agree with Ykick, you had a wrong phase combination. I had the same issue and invert two phase solve the issue (hall color should match with Lyen controler).
I do not burn my controler, that mean this 24 fet cannot handle 300amps phase current.
If you have time i can try to fix your burned fets ?
I will be near the 9' arrondissement tomorrow.
Wow, I woulda loved to see that last week. Thanks Accountant!Accountant wrote:Hope this will prevent future problems.
You need no more than 4 steps.
I have had a similar issue but the motor ran smooth. The motor would run but only by starting the wheel moving, but no throttle response, no ebrake, just a slow ramp up for about 2 seconds, stop, repeat. Double check your hall sensor wires and phase wires for good connection.wojtek wrote:hi,
I changed the wiring to like to like. Still nothing, but when i turned the wheel, the wheel started to run on its own! with noise and "pulsing" every 2 seconds. I had to switch off the controller to kill it. [ebrake button didnt kill it.
Any tips please? thank You
I have had a similar issue but the motor ran smooth. The motor would run but only by starting the wheel moving, but no throttle response, no ebrake, just a slow ramp up for about 2 seconds, stop, repeat. Double check your hall sensor wires and phase wires for good connection.
It was caused by a corrupted flash from a hex edited version of the software I created (that had a wonky parameter I had never used before, cruising+error so that I could use the P3 LED to diagnose an issue). To fix it, you can try two things. Create new flash parameters from scratch (do not open a saved file) and flash it, use unmodified or known working flashing software such as XPD or Parameter designer.
This problem had me scratching my head for about an hour before I switched programming software and realized I had a bug I needed to squash. Since then all has been good. Strange part is it only happened on one controller and the others I flashed with the same file worked exactly as expected.
I figured reflashing would do the trick. I posted an updated version of the software I gave you in my controller for sale thread if you want to download the latest version. I squished one last bug that prevented the setting of phase amps at 30A, the version you have only allows 35A minimum due to an error I made in hex.wojtek wrote:Dear Jeremy,
i reflashed the controller and it does work now!!! thanks a lot for your help.
it goes smoothly!
However the reverse gear doesn't work. Strangely it is the second controller from Cell_man with this problem. I dont see me doing anything wrong - matter of pressing the button.
I dont think it is about wrong phase/hall wiring
EDIT: i put the EBS to 2 but the regen was really brutal at 75v, changed to level 1 but cant really see any difference. the wheel blocks when breaking at higher speeds.. Does anyone knows what the regen voltage should be set up for using 66v lipo nominal [75v max] with this controller? thank You
Any help would much appreciated.Hello Pete, bad news: not only some 4110 are burned but also some surface mount components (at least a transistor and a capacitor).
I hope that Lyen will read the thread and give some help (I need the exact component reference), will see
Any idea on how to repair a Lyen 18 fet controller that stopped working because the phase wires shorted to my axle?...there is only .7 volts between the red and black throttle wires...zombiess wrote:In my personal experience, once the board is toasted this badly I've found it's easier to transfer everything over to a new board (build a new controller). That is unless the person doing the repairs is quite skilled and sure the repair is correct and will not blow up FET's again. I'm not the most patient or skilled electronics repair person though.
I've done a few repairs on these controllers for myself and others after hurting some surface mount stuff but no longer spend much time on fixing them if fried badly.
I do have open boards here with visible components so if your friend needs detailed pictures of anything please let me know what sections and I will try to help him out.