Phase vs battery current for most efficient setup

I was reading through some threads on phase/battery current.. the general consensus is to keep phase current about 2.5x battery current. And with a block time of 1 second, this is now setups come "stock".

Then I also read, specifically from mwkeefer, that lowering the phase current to just 1.5x battery current will increase the top speed a little bit.. has this been confirmed and if so, why would this be the case?

On a very elementary understanding, my belief is that if you are moving slower than what the motor wants to be moving at, the controller will increase phase current at the expense of voltage. So if you have a 1:1 ratio of phase:battery, even if you were traveling up a hill, your motor would see the same amps as battery current. With 2.5:1 ratio, it will multiply the phase amps and will slowly taper off to battery current once you reach the speed the motor wants to be in.

So now my question is, if I want an efficient setup, in the sense that I want more range, I can either play with this setting to get the lowest battery amps with the highest speed, or travel slower, which I'd rather not do.. what will give me say 25mph, using the least battery current.. a high phase/battery current ratio, or a low one?

Can't answer the speed question..but I would say..use XPD rather than Lyen /keywin software..then you can turn block time down to 0.1 seconds

NeilP said:

Can't answer the speed question..but I would say..use XPD rather than Lyen /keywin software..then you can turn block time down to 0.1 seconds

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subscribed
XPD is also more comfortable

@ iovaykind

roughly you can say:
High phase amps = good acceleration from zero to mid speed
High batt amps = good acceleration from mid to top speed
You don't have to set up phase to 2,5 x batt amps. Just do it how you like.

For higher efficiency lower phase amps better. You can also safe some energy if you pedal from a dead stop to a few kmh and than very slow open up the throttle.

Just downloaded XPD. However, I don't see the EB3xx configs available. I see that you can create one yourself.. I also see that you can set overcurrent to 0s. Do you have to worry about dividing or multiplying anything or is what you see what you get? Cause when em3ev gives you the program, you have to get it to half the current for EB318 boards.

iovaykind said:

Just downloaded XPD. However, I don't see the EB3xx configs available. I see that you can create one yourself.. I also see that you can set overcurrent to 0s. Do you have to worry about dividing or multiplying anything or is what you see what you get? Cause when em3ev gives you the program, you have to get it to half the current for EB318 boards.

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Why half the current? Any mods done on your EB318?
Yes you should create your own config in XPD if there is no. Choose Infineon EB318 and create it. And yes you get what you see :wink:

You also should know or measure the value of "R12" and use "HyenasR12Calc" to set the correct values for HVC and LVC.

Thanks. Yeah, I modded my R12 to give regen at 20s lipo, so I'll have to adjust for that on the LVC.

On the EM3ev program, the instructions come so that what you see isn't really what you get. You get the battery amps to 32.5A in order to get 65A battery current. So I wouldn't want to set it to 65A battery current on XPD and actually be running 130A battery and blow the controller on take off.

another thread about phase and battery current : for cross ref http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=54970&p=819338#p819338

One odd thing that I have noticed is that the current continues to climb, whereas, expected would be 40a then taper off.. i see mine go from 30a and while accelerating will slowly climb to 40a then drop back down to 20a cruising. anyone see anything like this? maybe i should get a video.

iovaykind said:

Thanks. Yeah, I modded my R12 to give regen at 20s lipo, so I'll have to adjust for that on the LVC.

On the EM3ev program, the instructions come so that what you see isn't really what you get. You get the battery amps to 32.5A in order to get 65A battery current. So I wouldn't want to set it to 65A battery current on XPD and actually be running 130A battery and blow the controller on take off.

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That sounds curious.
You have an 18FET EB3 controller right?
If your shunt isn't modded (should be normal about 1,333mOhm on 18FET) you definitely get what you set in XPD. Be very careful with the settings and better check it twice before flashing.
I would first set it up to very low current and control with a Cycle Analyst if the settings are ok.

iovaykind said:

One odd thing that I have noticed is that the current continues to climb, whereas, expected would be 40a then taper off.. i see mine go from 30a and while accelerating will slowly climb to 40a then drop back down to 20a cruising. anyone see anything like this? maybe i should get a video.

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this is normal. Controller limits the phase current (power) so it will not climb instant up to the battery amps at acceleration from a dead stop.