I'd go with 12g minimum on a rear. Front wheel can be anything.markz wrote:Best to go with double butted spokes, 12G would be the thickest to go. You actually want a bit thinner, so 13G/14G butted Sapims if possible on moto rim. Nipple holes on moto rim are quite wide. Spinning Magnets did an article on moto rims. Can use washers on nipples.
I looked into doing this a while back. I concluded it would be easier to run a complete MC fork and front wheel up front and modify the fork tube to fit the frame. When I say modify, I mean building a jig around the frame, then cutting out the head tube and welding a new head tube into place. The jig would make it possible by keeping the head tube angle in check with the OEM.chaindrive wrote:Pictured is a Kawasaki hub. I have a complete wheel here. The 4 mounting holes would take an adapter plate going to the 6 bolt mountain bike discs, I was looking at machining the mountain bike hubs. To accept larger spokes. I think this is a better way to go and stronger with the 10 gauge stock straight pull spokes. I have been looking at forks the Marzocchi 888 was one of my first choices. An inverted fork may be my only choice. Because of clearance on the hub i'm going to have to do quite a bit of research. And fitting
Thats a good point Ian. The toughest ebike isn't going to be as strong as the average MX Machine. It almost makes more sense to go to the local cycles savage, find an old YZ125 or bigwheel KX80 rolling chassis and start with that. Of course modding the frame to utilize a bottom bracket and pedals, and the swingarm to accept a hubmotor along with a brake tab to mount MTB Rear brake, would be equally challenging, however, the package would be tougher. I guess this is why I am such a fan of the DIY FUTR Alpha frame. Its tough and can accept the biggest, strongest dual crown Downhill MTB fork out there.Ianhill wrote:The problem is trying to use a push bike as a motorcycle there's always compromise if you want a 60mph bike that can handle abuse then convert a trials or motocross or what ever your taste, Converting a bike to be strong enough will cost more and still be compromised in strength compared to a purpose built the China ebike frames are dangerous in my eyes and people have seriously hurt them self's when they fail, I'm modding an a2b metro to do 45mph and that's mental in my eyes it's more than twice stock power just really not designed for it and it's cost an arm and a leg to get it where it's only half safe I still wouldn't rag it hard over demanding roads if it fails I got no one to blame but myself so I best hope I hurt no one in the process but myself.
Radial lacing makes for some super stiff wheels. just keep your spoke tension checked, and true the wheel as soon as you notice it needs it. I suspect when the spokes take a set, you will not have to worry about it.
If you search the forum you will see the radial lacing has been a topic several times. It seems consensus is that radial laced wheels are much weaker then say 2 x pattern lacing. Worth thinking of. If you are getting a motor and a wheel from the same manufacturer they will lace the motor into a motowheel with your choice of lacing pattern if you press them a little. As I understand radial lacing is faster and easier work then 2 x lacing but result is a weaker wheel.joe81 wrote: ↑Jan 12, 2018 9:08 amI am looking for something that can take some beating offroad and fits the Enduro Ebike frame. The 17" looks nice and probably is a good choice on the road, but a cast wheel is not what I am after for this bike.
Thank you for your input I am more positive to try the radially laced option now.