MXUS + ?? controller, A123 72V on a TBD

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MXUS + ?? controller, A123 72V on a TBD

Post by arkmundi » Sep 26 2014 9:21am

Index
The Controller
Battery an A123 AMP20 72V, in two 36V sections mounted pannier style on back rack
Component list full & complete, vetted by Justin
Question of spacers & washers for an 8-speed freewheel still undecided whether 7 or 8 speed
Rim & Spokes finalized Alexrims DX32 with Sapim spokes by JHR
Motor & Wire Upgrades
Putting it together

Preface
I got derailed from my Ross Mt Whitney MTB, MAC 8T, OSN A123 72V build for several reasons:
  • Paul at EM3ev would not warranty the setup as too many amps for the motor
  • I'm uncompromising on my need for speed per expected usage
  • the MXUS buy came along with a motor that I believe more suitable for speed without melting
  • going those speeds >50mph, I need a better full suspension frame and disc brakes
The availability here of the USA Group Buy for MXUS 3000W Hub Motor $200 + Shipping bare motor, was an eye-opener and an opportunity I couldn't pass on, so I put myself down for one. Also, the MXUS 3000 - Cromotor Mini technical specification.

Also inspiring was the availability of well priced used full suspension mountain bikes of a high calibre, like these: site:craigslist.org giant trance -or- site:craigslist.org trek fuel -or- site:craigslist.org jamis dakar. Tuesday 14-Oct-14 picked up a new Trek Shift 3 from local bike shop which I love. May need to hack to get the new wheel to fit.

And then to top off the incredible possibilities in today's highly wired marketplace, are the availability of A123 system ANR26650M1A 2300mah lifepo4 battery with 30c high discharge rate. In speaking with flybatt on Skype, I ascertained those cells will be "US$6.5 MOQ 100PCS if you need welding service, need to add extra US$0.3/PC", so $6.80 per cell with welded tabs. It just does not get any better. Though I may stick with an AMP20 battery pack, back rack mounted, 36V on a side, pannier style.

I'll add into that mix, per the USA Group Buy for MXUS 3000W Hub Motor $200 + Shipping thread:
teslanv wrote:I've got an 18FETx4110 Lyen looking for its next victim. :twisted:

A 12FET would probably be fun as well.

Step up to 4115 FETs and really have some fun.
arkmundi wrote: Muchos gracias.... so the 18 fet IRFB4110 Infineon Controller would be good?
So, had to report that news and start this build thread. :mrgreen:

Update 2015: Despite any indication otherwise, I have not yet bought a controller and am in the market for one capable of taking on a 96V A123 AMP20, 400+ amps. Maybe a 120v Sabvoton controllers from zombiess?? The 18 4110 mosfet Infineon controller from EM3ev, the most capable he offers, is not up to the task I believe.
Last edited by arkmundi on Feb 07 2015 8:58pm, edited 26 times in total.

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Re: MXUS + 18fet controller, A123 26650 on a ??

Post by teslanv » Sep 26 2014 11:11am

I will be installing my MXUS "Mini-Cro" and 18X4110 Lyen Controller on a Genesis V2100 Frame with Farfle Swing Arm. Kind of a modest version of this beast by evolutiongts:

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/vi ... rfle+V2100
DD Hubs, Batteries, Controllers & Custom Ebikes.
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Re: MXUS + 18fet controller, A123 26650 on a TBD

Post by Kent » Sep 26 2014 12:28pm

arkmundi wrote:Preface
I got derailed from my Ross Mt Whitney MTB, MAC 8T, OSN A123 72V build for several reasons:
  • Paul at EM3ev would not warranty the setup as too many amps for the motor
  • I'm uncompromising on my need for speed per expected usage
  • the MXUS buy came along with a motor that I believe more suitable for speed without melting
  • going those speeds >50mph, I need a better full suspension frame and disc brakes
The availability here of the USA Group Buy for MXUS 3000W Hub Motor $200 + Shipping bare motor, was an eye-opener and an opportunity I couldn't pass on, so I put myself down for one.

Also inspiring was the availability of well priced used full suspension mountain bikes of a high calibre, like these: site:craigslist.org giant trance -or- site:craigslist.org trek fuel.

And then to top off the incredible possibilities in today's highly wired marketplace, are the availability of A123 system ANR26650M1A 2300mah lifepo4 battery with 30c high discharge rate. In speaking with flybatt on Skype, I ascertained those cells will be "US$6.5 MOQ 100PCS if you need welding service, need to add extra US$0.3/PC", so $6.80 per cell with welded tabs. It just does not get any better.

I'll add into that mix, per the USA Group Buy for MXUS 3000W Hub Motor $200 + Shipping thread:
teslanv wrote:I've got an 18FETx4110 Lyen looking for its next victim. :twisted:

A 12FET would probably be fun as well.

Step up to 4115 FETs and really have some fun.
arkmundi wrote: Muchos gracias.... so the 18 fet IRFB4110 Infineon Controller would be good?
So, had to report that news and start this build thread. :mrgreen:
Great! So have you decided on wheel/tire yet?
72 V, (2x36v, 11.5 ah in series) Cellman, HS3540, 18fet Lyen, Jamis Dirtjumper Hardtail. Its streetlegal w license plate, inspection sticker.

Only by setting an example of good road manners and public courtesy can we convince the general public to take the electric bike seriously as a transportation option. Obey traffic laws!

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Re: MXUS + 18fet controller, A123 26650 on a TBD

Post by arkmundi » Sep 26 2014 1:31pm

Kent wrote:Great! So have you decided on wheel/tire yet?
No. Plan is to get a fully working suspension MTB, wheels & all, and then go from there. Likely the wheels will be just fine for my use as they are made for harsh downhill treatment. I'll thread the motor myself with new spokes, probably going with the more extreme 12 gauage, and new brass nipples. I'll have to figure out spoke size, of course, and best lacing pattern. Will use http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/spoke-calc.html

Oh, and there's active dialog on the group buy thread about controllers, so may downgrade it to a 12 FET.

Update: which I did to the 12 fet IRFB4110 Infineon Controller (Motor With Hall Sensors) from EM3ev.
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Re: MXUS + 18fet controller, A123 26650 on a TBD

Post by arkmundi » Sep 26 2014 8:24pm

Veloman's ebike builds
veloman wrote:DONE- Get the battery in the main triangle!!!! (I hate the look and feel of it on a rear seatpost rack). It will fit JUST fit, clear of the crank arms, laid on it's side. Not ideal, but the best I can do with this frame. I still have my eye out for the perfect ebike frame....
Alright, veloman, I want to know, did you find the perfect ebike frame? :?: I mean with a full suspension MTB and fitting a bunch of battery into the triangle? Can it be done? How about the greyborg?
MXUS 3000 - Cromotor Mini
e4bike.ru wrote:Hello everybody! My name is Valentin, I'm speaking most of the time in the video... MXUS is our long-time partner. We are their official dealer in Russia....
The motor in the video is the first version, the proof of concept. We developed a new version with several modifications and it is in production now. MXUS is only an assembling factory now. We ordered main parts of the motor from other suppliers. For a new version we changed stator base, iron core, windings, magnets and some other minor parts. The dimensions will remain the same (135mm dropout width, so you can easily fit it in every bicycle frame) and the weight should be added just a little bit. ...accepts 6speed gears
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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 26650 on a TBD

Post by veloman » Sep 26 2014 11:34pm

Sort of. I really like my old Specialized FSR Ground Control. Has a full triangle, shock is behind seat tube under the seat area. 3" travel max, which is enough most of the time, and yet it isn't too much - pedaling is still quite effective. I have a couple other 90s era FS frames that are sitting because one needs new bushings (KHS) and the other - a GT RTS - has a very poorly acting shock. It's an odd shock.. so no replacement. Both have great triangle space. My other favorite which I need to get back on the road is a Proflex 'softail'. About 1" of travel (maybe 1/2" once I'm on it). Great for pedaling and soaking up the small road irregularities which are everywhere. Pretty good triangle space. I think all these bikes are in my build thread. This pic is my Ground Control FSR. $50 at local swap meet. Seatpost frozen in frame, but that's fine since I did this wacky seat setup.
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Re: MXUS + ?? controller, A123 26650 on a TBD

Post by arkmundi » Sep 27 2014 9:25am

As of January 2015, I'm leaning towards the Kelly:

Kelly Controller
The KEB72301X,24V-72V,150A,3.0KW,E-bike Brushless Controller/ Regen
Configurable battery voltage range, Max operating range: 18V to 90V.
- should be good with an A123 72V nominal (82V max)
Continuous Phase Current Limit: 60A {see note below}
Reference:
Installed Kelly/KEB Controller w Regen in my Motorino XPn
Kelly Controller w/ Cromotor ? (the Doctorbass endorsement)
.. need a USB/Serial adapter (9 pins) you can find it for about 10$ or less on the web and you don't need the expensive one from Kelly.

The Infineon Controllers:
MXUS DD rear hub motor (from cell_man)
cell_man wrote:These motors aren't 9C but I think they are every bit as good and dare I say it I think they have better built wheels after some of the complaints I've read on that subject. The rims and spokes are not top notch but the wheels are actually well put together, tough, well trued and the spokes are very well tensioned. They also use a good method to build the wheels which works well IMO when you are using a combination of: a big diameter hub; 1 cross lacing; and thick spokes.

Burtie had the standard slow wound motor (255rpm at 36V no load for a 26" rim) but most that I have supplied recently are a faster wind, 305rpm at 36V. I've checked and I can supply the kits minus the standard controller with a 20USD discount and I have 6, 9 or 12 Fet Infineons fitted with IRFB4110s and 100V caps to replace it if required.
Infineon.png
Infineon.png (99.56 KiB) Viewed 12025 times
from http://e4bike.ru/accessory.php
InfineonConnect.png
I've been running my 18 fet controller at 180a
John in CR wrote:You're just wasting battery capacity running that motor at that current... I'm not surprised the controller can handle that current, since I pushed a 36fet as high as 422A battery 550A phase limits, but how far a controller can be pushed depends a lot on the motor used, voltage, and load.
There must be a good table posted somewhere, or equations that might take the guesswork out of matching motor, battery and controller? Actual, rather than safe low as stated by the manufacturer.

The Adapto Controller
The most advanced Adaptto Mini-E Controller + BMS
for which there is a Adaptto Mini-E USA/CA Group Buy Interest Thread and Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

I liked spinningmagnets explanation of sine-wave controllers at https://www.electricbike.com/sine-wave/.

Programming
There's a great consideration on the MXUS 3000 Hub Motor thread by Teslanv, a set of charts, on how to program the controller so as to optimize it for the 5T wind. Long shot is the phase current, which should be set to 70 amps and no more. More would tend to overheat the motor.
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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 72V on a TBD

Post by arkmundi » Sep 28 2014 8:48pm

Battery
After consternating about the AMP20 prismatic cells versus the 26650 cylindrical cells, I settled on the former. FYI, my battery pack proforma can be found PROMOTING OSN A123 20ah packs. I'll post more details on my battery build when I've got a completed set of packs on hand with some test results. :mrgreen:
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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 26650 on a TBD

Post by arkmundi » Sep 30 2014 8:27am

I'm taking my time to find the right bike for this build. A full suspension MTB. Used, on local Craigslist or eBay. So I have a full component set. Myself, I'm not into building up an eBike from a bare frame. So I've heard it before, that:
danielrlee wrote:The best point along the axis is the point of equal weight distribution - somewhere around the mid triangle.... Dummies guide to optimal weight distribution
So in my mind that means a bike whose rear suspension is not inside the triangle, but below the seat. Eliminates a lot of possibility. Will keep looking.

Update: Yea, a lot of looking. OMG, there's a lot of used bikes out there to be had. Anyway, it pays to take your good time and consider how you're going to use this beast, how much you want to spend etc. In that consideration, I've decided to not buy used as outlined above, but rather to buy a new Trek Shift 3, as the best fit for me and my needs. This model, because it has adequate suspension, both on the front and on the seat-post, is a hybrid "comfort" bike design (sorry, just want to go faster on the road and do so comfortably), and has an open triangle for a battery pack.

There are some ancillary advantages: 1> full support from my local bike shop, 2> exact sizing of the bike to me, 3> its new - no dings or scratches - and that's a pleasant experience, and 4> all components are unworn, especially the shocks.


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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 26650 on a Trek Shift 3

Post by Samd » Oct 01 2014 7:56pm

Nice!

I'm going to run mine on a a GT Fury 2, and weld in a battery case. Doing one for a customer, so why not!
It is going to be manic.
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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 26650 on a Trek Shift 3

Post by arkmundi » Oct 02 2014 2:33pm

Question of spacers & washers for an 8-speed freewheel

Do I need a spacer between rear hub and freewheel?
Drunkskunk wrote:you might need a spacer, you might not. fitting a spacer is part of aligning the freewheel, and it's need is determined by several factors. If the chain hits the motor, and/or the derailer hits the motor when you have it set correctly to move the chain to the largest gear, you need a spacer. Otherwise, you probably don't.

If the freewheel is hitting the dropout, you have other problems. That side is spaced with a sleve that fits over the axle.
Samd wrote:The width comes about not due to a lack of machining of 135mm axles but the need for brake caliper clearance due to larger DD hubs having squares sides, not bowl shaped. I've yet to install a rear end that didn't take 5mm stretch. If you check my linked drawing you'll see a washer.
Samd, thanks... Justin over at Grin believes the same. I'm trying to finalize my Component list for my MXUS Build. Grin offer both a 3mm and a 5mm space washer. I'll be putting this bad boy on the rear with an 8 gear freewheel. So its most likely a SpaceWash5 I'll need?
NeedWasher.jpg
NeedWasher.jpg (47.45 KiB) Viewed 11808 times
Samd wrote:... posted a link to drawings on page 7. It's 221 mm. And on the drawing it shows the 135mm dropout width, plus a suggested washer to move your brake caliper over 7mm to stop it rubbing on the hub's fat square walls (a common problem), which if the washer is used gives you 142mm total. MXUS 3000 - Cromotor Mini
I found this link - http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=2788.0 that has some nice pictures of what it took to put a 7-gear DNP freewheel onto a Golden Motor DD: "I've successfully done it and this is with my Hydraulic disc brake set-up too and my 26" X 2.35 fat road tyres. All this on a standard 135mm rear mountain bike axle . The Trek Shift 3 bike I'm putting my MXUS has an 8-gear cassette, which is why I'm choosing an 8-gear freewheel. Its just a matter of correct execution I believe. Its that last 11 tooth gear, because of this motor, that I'll find myself riding a lot.

Do I need a spacer between rear hub and freewheel?
lbz5mc12 wrote:.... The freewheel tightens on in the direction you pedal so the grease won't make it thread loose but it should make removal easier later on. The washers aren't supposed to slip inside of the freewheel. That part of the freewheel is in a fixed position and the gears spin over it. There should actually be a nut that extends past the edge of the freewheel and the washer is supposed to rest up against that. If there's no nut on the threads that extends out past the edge of the freewheel you may need to find a long cylindrical spacer to put on the axle and slip into the edge of the freewheel so that it extends out past the freewheel and then the washer should rest up against the spacer. A lot of the cheaper Chinese hub kits come with spacers that perform the previously mentioned function. I'm not sure where you can find that kind of spacer though. A local hardware store might have something that will work.
Update: was looking at the spec for this motor at: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/MXUS-45m ... 19619.html and says "freewheel: 6-7S". So perhaps going with a 7-gear freewheel is the better option after all.
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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 26650 on a Trek Shift 3

Post by Samd » Oct 02 2014 3:30pm

All the dnp freewheels have a 11 tooth fella, including the seven speed.
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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 26650 on a Trek Shift 3

Post by arkmundi » Oct 02 2014 5:58pm

OK, but does it not make sense to replace the 8-gear on the bike with an 8-gear for the MXUS? The question is spacing, washers and what not. I suppose we'll know better with the motor in hand. Coming from someone who will be doing a rear motor mount for the first time - my Gitchee has the Heinzmann on the front wheel.

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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 26650 on a Trek Shift 3

Post by Samd » Oct 07 2014 10:30pm

Probably.

But to me I only ever need three speeds, the bits inbetween are a PITA, to skip over them is slow too. So I usually minimise the cog numbers.

And >7 speed chain is weak.

My hubs have hit landed in Australia at least, now for domestic shipping to me!!!
http://ballaratebikes.com/

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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 26650 on a Trek Shift 3

Post by arkmundi » Oct 11 2014 1:21pm

Rim & Spokes
Before calculating spoke length, need a couple of critical numbers:
MXUS-Specs.png
MXUS-Specs.png (32.91 KiB) Viewed 11661 times
So ....
1> Hub Flange Diameter: 231 mm
2> Flange Spacing: 49.5 mm
3> Spokehole: 3 mm
4> On an Alexrims DX32, which has a stated ERD of 548 mm
why do my 12 gauge spokes break?
wesnewell wrote:The real problem is they are just crappy spokes. Replace them with some decent ones and you won't have a problem. They also tend to snap easier when they are not tight. And if you're using a wide tire, this would be the time to put a wider rim on it too. Alex DX32 or Weinmann DH39 if you can find one. Both are 32/39mm. I used 166mm 12g Primo ss spokes on a DH39 about a year ago and haven't broken one yet after ~4000 miles.
So, no crap, great Sapim Strong spokes from http://www.holmesbikes.com/.
Sapim.png
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Using the http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/spoke-calc.html
Alexrims-DX32.png
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So, spoke length is 170.4 mm
Then, choosing a good gauge spoke....
Hub Motor Wheel Builds!
johnrobholmes wrote:Getting the motors made with reasonable spoke holes is the first challenge that all retailers need to push. Cell man has been helping greatly with this. My ideal 1hp hub would have 2.5mm spoke hole diameter with 13/15/14 butted spokes laced into any quality eyeletted rim. My ideal big power power hub (like the cromotor) would have 3.5mm holes for 10 through 12ga spokes.
MXUS 3000 - Cromotor Mini
wesnewell wrote:Reply from MXUS
Please see the following specs for the 3000w motor:
XF40-45H Rated Voltage (V) 24/36/48/72 Cable Location Shaft center right
Rated Power (W) 1000-3000w Spoke Specification 12g/13g
.....
Meaning, from the manufacturer, they've drilled 36 spokeholes 3 mm in diameter. Simply going with that number and choosing a double butted Sapim Strong stainless steel 13/14 gauge. In black. Its that or straight 12 gauge, since Sapim does not have my preferred 12/13 butted spoke. Since motor is centered, no dishing required and all the spokes are the same length.
why do my 12 gauge spokes break?
liveforphysics wrote:The extra money for butted spokes over straight spokes will also result in a stronger wheel. That gives you a shaft with more compliance, while both ends where failures can happen remain beefy.
... wesnewell: a rim with angled spoke holes (drilled).
That's the plan anyway - any feedback before I commit? :?:
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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 26650 on a Trek Shift 3

Post by wesnewell » Oct 11 2014 4:27pm

As long as all your data is correct, then it looks good to me. The only concern with spoke choice is what are the spoke hole size of the rim you are going to use. The hub is drilled for 12G spokes at 3mm. Is the rim drilled for 12g or 13g nipples. I run straight 12g spokes in mine because that's what the rim I have is drilled for.
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Mongoose 26" Ledge 2.1 mtb bike $99, yescomusa.com 48V 1000W rear hub kit $200, Hua Tong 72V 40A controller $35, 10ah 24s lipo $217=~43mph, range=45 miles @ 20mph. 25K miles and still going strong.
Huffy Fortress 3.0 with MXUS 3000 4T motor, 24s lipo, 96V 60A controller. Total cost with extras <$700. Top speed ~50mph
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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 72V on a Trek Shift 3

Post by johnrobholmes » Oct 15 2014 3:38am

Length looks good. It would be worth it to redrill the hub with 2.5mm holes half spaced for .5 cross lacing though, so you can use 13/14 butted spokes that won't tear through the rim.

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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 72V on a Trek Shift 3

Post by ridethelightning » Oct 15 2014 7:01am

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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 72V on a Trek Shift 3

Post by arkmundi » Oct 15 2014 2:01pm

johnrobholmes wrote:Length looks good. It would be worth it to redrill the hub with 2.5mm holes half spaced for .5 cross lacing though, so you can use 13/14 butted spokes that won't tear through the rim.
Thanks for the suggestion. I don't know what you mean - can explain? My understanding is that the hub is 3.0mm holes, ready for 12/13 spokes. Have not gotten a reliable confirmation of that or the other critical numbers - flange diameter and spacing.

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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 72V on a Trek Shift 3

Post by arkmundi » Oct 15 2014 7:14pm

Motor & Wire Upgrades
There are some things that would be good to do with motor when it arrives, before it goes into the rim:
  • the wires going into the motor
  • Tune Controller
MXUS 3000 Hub Motor
John in CR wrote:The wire gauge of the motor windings is larger and shorter, so the amount of heat created by the higher current is the same as the thinner longer wire of the slower winding. If running at the same power, rpm and load, the amount of heat produced in the windings is identical. What gauge wire comes out of the motor is irrelevant to me, because it is easily upgraded. The 12awg mentioned before is inadequate as far as I'm concerned unless you want to keep the motor limited to 5-6kw peak,,,, they won't melt at modest power, but why have the easiest thing to upgrade be the weak link in your system, especially when a failure means a blown controller? Plus using wire that's too small wastes battery capacity and reduces performance just to make heat.
OK, the wiring needs to match the current for the motor.
John in CR wrote:.... Someone mentioned running one of these motors using a 12fet controller, which I see as big mistake.... I'll honor you guys a ridiculously low non-public price, and you'll know they're fully tested and ready to go when I start offering kits, because I may not even list them publicly as stand alone products.
Seems I'm one of those (see above thread on Infineon Controllers. No, I'm not making a recommendation to anyone but myself. It was framed as a question/consideration for this motor. The question is not just motor but motor + controller + battery. There will be some (and John you're one of them) who will be looking to eke out every ounce of performance from this motors, and OK, go for it. I'm not. I believe the 5-wind MXUS paired with a 12FET Infineon and a 72V A123 battery to be a good match-up. NOT for max power/speed. If I were going for a 96V battery, then ya, I'd do the 18FET or better. And I may upgrade latter. For now however, unless you or others can convince me otherwise, I'll stick with the above plan. The reason I post & sit on it awhile is for just this kine of banter, and I'll change my mind, like I have already hundreds of times. FYI, my component list has been vetted by Justin and others and gotten an A+ seal of approval. You should, however, post more info, more spec on your controllers, now, before we make our purchase decisions. Your great rant on 4-wind versus 5-wind was great, but came a moment too late.

Tune Controller: MXUS 3000 Hub Moto
John in CR wrote:Only you can tune your controller to your bike. I typically start at 1:1 and go up from there until the motor sounds right, and then go for a ride to higher speeds and make sure all seems good. When the ratio is too low the motor fees and sounds starved of current to me, and not quite right in the first few revolutions of the tire. I do that at a significantly lower battery current than I plan. Then I start ratcheting up both battery and phase current limits maintaining that same ratio as I dial in higher power. My goal is to keep the ratio as low as possible, and dial up power as much as possible, because higher than necessary phase current limits cause excessive heat in both motor and controller at times you don't want it, such as below half speed on hills.....
Troubleshooting
http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html
Last edited by arkmundi on Dec 13 2014 7:00pm, edited 4 times in total.

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teslanv   100 MW

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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 72V on a Trek Shift 3

Post by teslanv » Oct 15 2014 11:45pm

I think a 5-turn on this motor will be sufficient and likely more efficient for most riders. I still think I can join the 50 mph club with my 5-turn on 24S LiPo, and an 18x4110 Lyen controller. 8)
DD Hubs, Batteries, Controllers & Custom Ebikes.
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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 72V on a Trek Shift 3

Post by arkmundi » Oct 16 2014 12:05am

Putting it together

Controller and motor hookup
How to Determine the Wiring for a Brushless Motor

Notes
teslanv wrote:I think a 5-turn on this motor will be sufficient and likely more efficient for most riders. I still think I can join the 50 mph club with my 5-turn on 24S LiPo, and an 18x4110 Lyen controller. 8)
About a 100V? Yea, 18FET for sure. To satisfy my curiosity, what's the difference between a Lyen and Infineon controller?
Last edited by arkmundi on Jan 23 2015 11:14am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 72V on a Trek Shift 3

Post by teslanv » Oct 16 2014 12:08am

arkmundi wrote: About a 100V? Yea, 18FET for sure. To satisfy my curiosity, what's the difference between a Lyen and Infineon controller?
Lyen's controllers are just a slightly modified infineon. Same board, FETs, etc. I'm not sure what he does different, actually. QC?
DD Hubs, Batteries, Controllers & Custom Ebikes.
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Re: MXUS + 12fet controller, A123 72V on a Trek Shift 3

Post by arkmundi » Oct 16 2014 12:18am

12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition $129
Lyen wrote:These are newly hand assembled Infineon 12 FET controllers I am selling, they are new and never used. This is the controller of choice picked by most skilled ES members.... For the extremists, this controller is meant for for easy modification without replacing the MOSFETs to IRFB4110 since it is already equipped. You may double and possibly triple the current output.. if you are going to use a 9C (Nine Continent) motor, It is recommended to maximize the current output at 65A due to the thinner gauge wires being used with the hub motor. There is a potential that any current & voltage combination higher than the current 72V @ 65A will melt the phase wires in the hub motor and cause potential damage...

Below is the specification:
Model: EC-124110-LYEN EDITION
Start immediate controller
Chipset: XCKJ8B116A (same chipset being used as in the 18 FET controller)
Circuit board version: EB812XC-A-B
12 x genuine IRFB 4110 MOSFET N-CH 100V (tested up to 110V before damage) for more information about the FET, click the link below:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 4110PBF-ND)
72V battery optimized (for higher or lower voltage & current such as 24V-100V, you may need to change the resistor network to avoid damage to the LM317 linear voltage regulator)
45A is the current rate (for higher current, you may need to beef up the trace, shunt, and reprogram it via the software)
Low voltage cut-off: 62.5v
Battery and motor phase wires gauge size: 12AWG (High voltage capable wires equipped)
Dimension: 6.2" x 3.4" x 1.75" (155mm x 87mm x 45mm) plus mount extensions
Total weight: 515 gram

$129 USD free ground shipping in the United States & Canada. For other locations, please PM or email me at LYEN@HOTMAIL.COM. I accept PayPal, cash or money order. The controllers will be shipped out from me in San Francisco, California, USA. I will provide a tracking number and ship it out as soon as I have received the fund.

For only $10 more, I can include the the following:
1. CA connector
2. Regenerative enable/disable (Enabled simply by connect the wires together without the need to open the case)
3. USB-TTL 5 pin connector (for use with the USB-TTL adapter that is sold separate)

Additional accessories (prices are reflected with controller purchase only. Please contact if you are interested to buy without controller):
$15 throttle (full/half/thumb) with mated left rubber grip (very good quality) (ebikekit retails @ $36)
$19 cruise control (manually installation required)
$15 three way speed switch (manually installation required)
$15 PAS - Pedal Assist System add-on (manually installation required)
$15 electric brake levers a pair
$29 motor/controller hall/phase/throttle tester

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