Modified controller issue (video included)

Hi,

Can someone help me while my Adaptto Mini-e is back in Russia? (I never got it to run the motor with sensors so I tried sensorless and think I burned a FET)

I have another controller from this thread http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=60139. that I will try to use while the mini-e is back for repair.
Batteries are configured 20s 3p (HK hard case Lipo), wheel is 16 inch (motor was in a 26" original)
It has been modified with 4110 FET`s and I have beefed up the traces and wires, soldered some copper wire to the shunt about halfway(it is around 30A stock).
When I try to run the bike it takes off smoothly but when I turn the throttle to rapid it makes this strange sound, I think I am hitting some kind of limit or something.
I find this a little strange since I have replaced the FET`s and reduced the shunt resistance to about half the value ( I have upped the voltage since I ran it stock in 26" wheel from 16s to 20s)
The only way I can measure phase current is with a clamping Amp meter and that has only been tried with wheel in free air to see if it was to much current draw.
You can watch the video to hear the sound. The tire rubs a little so you will also hear that in the video (I have to shave it a little)
[youtube]AwGeO3-lBJY[/youtube]

Lars

are you running this with sensors now ?..

what is the battery current draw @ WOT with the wheel off the ground ?

it could be either a incorrect wire combo or you are reaching the max e-rpm of the controller ( less likely in a direct drive hub but possible if its a geared hub )

gwhy! said:

are you running this with sensors now ?..

what is the battery current draw @ WOT with the wheel off the ground ?

it could be either a incorrect wire combo or you are reaching the max e-rpm of the controller ( less likely in a direct drive hub but possible if its a geared hub )

Click to expand...

Yes I am running with sensors now, at least I think so. The halls are switching like they should but maybe the controller have the ability to run sensorless and has switched to that?

Battery current was about 1 A @WOT with wheel in air, I tried a few phase wire combos and mean that I settled for the one with least current draw.
It is not an e-rpm or speed limit issue because the wheel spins really fast in free air( its a DD with 35mm stator I think it is a 5 turn(it was written 18x5 inside cover)

Lars

I only mentioned about the e-rpm as I have hit these same symptoms but running a smaller outrunner. the lowest WOT current sounds good but to be honest I would have expected a little higher current maybe around 1.6A , I only have limited experience with a few makes of hub motors so the 1A could be correct :? .. I have come across some controllers that just do not work 100% sensored maybe it starts off in sensored mode then reverts to sensorless and its at this point that things start to go wrong ( under load ) and the controller is limiting the excessive phase currents due to a timing shift , maybe the hub is Wye terminated and the slight difference in timing shift from being sensored to unsensored and the controller can not cope with it ..

Edit: I think I would try a different wire combo , as even before your bike starts to go wrong it just dont sound right .

Edit2: or maybe you have a intermittent hall sensor and this is also the reason you were unable to get your other controller to work .
be nice if you had another motor to test the controller .

Yeah it would have been nice to have another motor to test with, because this looks like a poorly made motor. There is one place where there is a gap between the magnets that is larger than the rest and there is also a small corner of one magnet missing. Unfortunately I'm the only one of my friends who are into ebikes so no go for a borrow.

I think I have to go for the European group buy of the MXUS if its not to late to jump on, I have a bad feeling for my current motor.
But it ran ok ish with 63v and the stock FET`s 4410Z in the 26" rim and I only ran into the same type of issue when I was meeting the motor with throttle after a downhill or in steep hills.
Should I try a little more copper/solder on the shunt and rely on a fuse(start with 100A)?
I'm a little bit to happy for ebike troubleshooting now due to a few drinks so I try measuring a little and alter the phase combos tomorrow

Lars

Larseren said:

Yeah it would have been nice to have another motor to test with, because this looks like a poorly made motor. There is one place where there is a gap between the magnets that is larger than the rest and there is also a small corner of one magnet missing. Unfortunately I'm the only one of my friends who are into ebikes so no go for a borrow.

I think I have to go for the European group buy of the MXUS if its not to late to jump on, I have a bad feeling for my current motor.
But it ran ok ish with 63v and the stock FET`s 4410Z in the 26" rim and I only ran into the same type of issue when I was meeting the motor with throttle after a downhill or in steep hills.
Should I try a little more copper/solder on the shunt and rely on a fuse(start with 100A)?
I'm a little bit to happy for ebike troubleshooting now due to a few drinks so I try measuring a little and alter the phase combos tomorrow

Lars

Click to expand...

a few drinks and fault finding is not the best combo ..

I dont think reducing the shunt value will help to be honest, i just think you will end up popping the controller . The corner of a magnet missing could be the issue especially if this is where the halls are picking up the pulse from.