Got some more today done, but not nearly as much as I'd hoped, partly cuz I'm just tired and not going as fast as I ought, and partly from delays from a lot of little things, like Kirin trying to set herself on fire.
She isn't hurt, or even singed, (except maybe her tongue and some random hairs here and there) but as it got dark enough for the welding slag and sparks to really show up, she decided that they were something she REALLY had to chase and try to eat, while I was welding up part of the frame. I've never had a dog (or other animal) that would do that, so I wasn't prepared for it to happen.
Knowing Kirin, I probably *should* have been, because she'll chase/hunt pretty much anything that moves or makes a noise, and loves to chase laser lights, and the welding slag is all of those in one.
She didnt' have any burns on her tongue/etc that I can see, but whatever she first touched must have hurt enough to make her stop before she really got some bigger hotter bits. But I had to make her go inside and stay while I finished up the welding, becuase every time I started to, she'd go back to chasing the slag. :/
Before that, she was just laying around in between bouts of playing with Yogi:
Back to the trike:
I hadn't noticed until today, but there is a red arrow sticker on the MXUS3K that indicates it's a directional motor, like the X5304. But it points in the wrong direction:
If the motor is really intended to drive in that direction, then it would make a bicycle go backwards, because the freewheel is on the right in that picture cuz the trike's upside down.
There are several possibilities:
--Sticker was put on backwards
--Covers are swapped (not by me as I never got the wire-side disc brake mount cover off, but the motor *has* been repaired by someone (Kinaye? I think) according to Neptronix, due to wire damage.
--Stator is backwards
--Rotor is backwards.
I looked around and the pics I see of other MXUS
's similar to this one have the wire exiting the disc side as well, so the stator isn't backwards, or covers swapped.
So that leaves either rotor or sticker as backwards.
AFAIK the pics in this thread are of this actual motor:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =9&t=84337
which means the magnets are all straight, not angled, but can't see the stator tooth slots to see if they are angled. If they are not, then it is not a directional motor, and it doesnt' matter which way the arrow points or how the rotor is installed / stator points. From my pics, like DSC06279.jpg earlier in this thread, the little one can see of the teeth doesn't seem to show any angling. So it's probably not directional.
Well, actually, it could have the halls placed in a nonsymmetrical way in the stator teeth, and *that* might make it directional, I guess. But I can't find any info on that; from the thread above and my pics (DSC06276 and DSC6278.jpg earlier in this thread) they appear to be symmetrically installed (two centered in teeth and the center one in the gap between). So probalby not directional.
Not gonna worry about it ATM, though.
Next up is getting the motor to fit in the trike frame.
I did the first part of the axle
mod, on the drive side, and didn't need to do a mod on the wire side. I ground away just enough to let the axle
sit in the clamping dropouts, and get the freewheel sprocket lined up with the trike's drive output sprocket. I did not file it square, but left it rounded, to lessen the stress-riser effect.
I also had to cut about 1/2" off the axle
on that end, to clear the clamping bolt that sits in line with the axle
. (I'd put that bolt way out away from the original 9C's axle
, but this one is MUCH longer than that motor's).
Then I bent the outboard dropout-holding-frame outward a bit, and the motor now fits right in there.
Another issue cropped up. Since the phase wires are all soldered on the 9C to the controller, and I don't want to cut them yet (not till I move the rim/spokes over to the MXUS
, so if I have to use the trike I still can, albeit with some work to clamp or bolt the outboard end of the 9C's axle
to the now-wider dropout), the small chain loop to go to the trike's output sprocket would ahve to be undone with the tool...so instead I just got out some other chain off an old BMX and made a new one...
But it won't work; I need a half-link to do it. That seemed wierd becuase I didn' tneed one with the 9C, and the axles are in the same place. Turns out the freewheel I'd used on the 9C was a 16T, not the 18T I'd thought, but the one I used on the MXUS3K *is* an 18T, so the extra link it takes makes the new chain a 17-link rather than a 16-link, and that means that with no way to tension it that much, it won't work without a half-link, which I don't have.
So for now I'll have to take the 16T (and the 16-link chain) off the 9C to use on the MXUS
, when I switch over. Oh, well. If I find (or make) a half-link then I can switch to the larger freewheel, which will increase low-end torque and decrease speed, for pedals, which is perfectly ok with me (since they're only there in case the motor system isnt' working for some reason and I have to pedal (otherwise I'd have to walk/limp home), cuz I can't push hard, and cant' even do the normal stuff for long.
Note that to ensure parallelism of the sprockets, I had to modify a torque washer (rounding its end to match the dropout's "U" shape) to "lift" (actually force-down) the outboard end of the axle
just a bit, to line up both ends of the axle
the same. THis is probably because when I moved the dropouts outward, it also moves htem upward as they pivot around the frame; and tis not a lot just enough to misalign things. I can fix it permanently any number of ways, but this works just fine.
On to the frame:
I removed the 1/2" tubing, and modified a 1" tube to fit the spot instead, including some notches to clear the MXUS
's disc brake mount.
I cut a section out of the tube to fit it onto the dropout and connecting tubing, and will weld that all solid later.
The wider dropouts means this now clears the tire even with 1" tube (wouldnt' have before), like this iwth the 9C motor (which would require some thing bolted or clamped between the axle
plate and the dropout to hold it in there.
It also clears the wide MXUS3k housing, which also clears the drive sprocket and chain (but not by much)
The only serious problem with doing stuff this way is that it leaves the axle
sticking out quite a long ways, and is definitely enough to keep it from going thru a doorway if I need it to (and possibly more of the bollards on bike paths; it's already too wide fro some of them).
The only real solution I know for this is to cut the axle
off just outboard of the dropouts, and weld a plate to it like I did the 9C, that can then be bolted to the dropouts.
What I will rpobably do for now is just cut the axle
just outboard of the axle
nut, so it's only the nut's width sticking out (saves over an inch, at least).
I clamped it together prior to tackwelding it; incluidng repalicng the 1/2" tube that forms the rear of the fender base, to increase the strength of the cargo bed and connect this new thicker outer rail with the H-frame under the bed so it's all 1" tubing now. I ddi not change out the 1/2" tubing that forms the diagonal from that cross-brace froward to the inboard dropout, as there is already a parallel 1" tube inches away tha's also welded to the dropout area.
Then I got the other triangulation bar from the main trike frame to the left side of the "transaxle" tube installed. (the right side was done when Teddy was still around; basically the last time I really worked on the trike before this weekend)
More tomorrow, hopefully.