Yes, they are the clear/chrome units at the ends of the light bar:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1150117
They are amber incandescent bulbs inside (I use LEDs on CrazyBike2, and on the trailer, but didnt' have any for the trike; I pulled these off DayGlo Avenger).
This pic taken today shows them better
They work quite well, and are bright enough, but are rather small (only about 1/4 to 1/2 of the surface area of typical car/truck turn signals).
The same is true of my tail/brake lights.
In my observations of road users of all kinds, the larger the surface area (not necessarily the brighter, though sometimes that works too), the more likely they are to be seen and responded to, for whatever kind of signal light.
Also, the larger they are, the closer they appear, relative to what someone might expect for that general type of vehicle, and the quicker the response tends to be to avoid colliding with it.
So for instance, with these, since they are traffic lights, and will be down near ground level rather than way up on a pole over the road, they'll look a lot larger (and thus closer) than the brain of the road user has been trained to see them as, and should cause them to respond quicker and to slow, go around, or stop.
Of course, it might not really work like that, but it's worth a try, and they'll certainly be very visible, either way.
I'll probably make a mount for them that will allow their use on the trailer as well as the trike, and possibly on the back of CrazyBike2's cargo pods.
So he stopped by and dropped htem off, and we updated each other on various projects and such. Turns out it was about $10 for *both* rather than each, so definitely worth it.
They do operate off of either the A123 16s pack or the EIG 14s pack, not quite as brightly as when running off the 115VAC wall outlet they're meant to operate from, but still quite bright. These are on AC, with flash then without, while the room lights are all on in the kitchen (5 really bright white LED floodlights overhead plus a "40w" CCFL on the stove)
No flash, just the room lights, camera directly above the light; it's so bright the camera stops down so the room light on cabinet isn't even seen
without the room lights
and then without room lights, just to see what the light "beam" would look like; it's not a round beam, but rather is a flat rectangle, which makes sense so that it covers a road area down below the traffic light poles. This must be what the clear plastic lensing assembly does. Anyway, the one on the right is from the light plugged into the wall AC power, and the one on the left is from the one running off the A123 pack (DC, about half the voltage).
They won't operate off a 6s pack, though. I suspect the converter board inside is just a constant current source, rather than a traditional AC-DC, and simply rectifies and filters the incoming voltage to make a DC source to run the LEDs from.
I could probably cut the series sets into sections and wire them in parallel, so that I can run it on much lower voltage (like my regular lighting pack). I doubt I could easily modify the converter/current source, though, so I'd need to make another, preferably one with two levels of brightness, one for tailight and a brighter one fro braking.
Some pics of a possible placement:
shows just how big they really are.
More likely "ll place them higher up, but it'll have to wait till I have the rest of the trike/rack done, so I'll know where I can put them for testing.
This is the insides. Note that they are two different models, with several differences between them, but they are about the same brightness overall, and the current-supply board inside is the same.
I think there are a few more LEDs in one vs the other, but not sure (didn't sit down and count them exactly; the one I can see the connections of appears tohave 36 or 37 series sets of 4 parallelled LEDs.
The second one:
Found an LED floating around inside one of them; resoldered it in where it apparently fell out:
Got a little done on the trike; much of the time spent on it was taken up breaking down the signage for it's wood to make the new deck and box areas, and digging out some other bits and pieces from the sheds (wiring,etc).
The rightside motor isn't working, so have to figure out if it's wiring or controller or what.
The main thing done was to remove the old uprights from the rear of the trike, and replace them with new ones so that I can remove the rack when needed (for tall cargo, for instance). First step was to cut the rack off:
I hadn't planned to do this for a while, but while working on the deck/wood layout, I test fitted the kennel in there, or rather tried to, and found that something I did during the most recent stuff removed the clearance on the right side top between the rack and the kennel, so it wouldn't go in there at all.
So the choices were to cut the rear right uprigth and splice in some tube to clear it, or do just a bit more work and make the rack removable. I then cut off the old uprights, cleaned up the corners of the lower deck frameb ack there, and used these gusseted signage holders
to give more stiffness to the rack and trike frame while also allowing for pinning the rack in place at various heights.
The smaller-cross-section tube that fits those will be inserted inside (and welded into) the rest of the rack upright tube, that's still part of the rack.
Still have to cut either the rack's uprigths or more likely the trke's uprights to let the rack sit down just where the top of the kennel will be at it's lowest, then weld in the other piece.
I will probably remove the pushbutton "latch" adjustment,
and replace it with a locking pin or bolt, because it's likely that just the stamped-shape sheetmetal pushbutton would shear thru under loads on the rack, eventually if not immediately. However, I doubt I'll do this right now, since it will work without a load just fine and all I need the rack for ATM is to hold the lighting bar.
I also added the front crossbar to the cargo area, just behind the seat's back, to finalize the box area around/under the seats. I debated on where this would go, because having it farther back means the cargo area is smaller and the kennel sticks out the back farther, but the box area would be bigger, and I could use that area for a large battery compartment.
Putting it farther forward, where I ended up doing it, means there is almost no area behind the seat for box/compartment, but lets the kennel be far enough forward to be almost completely inside the cargo area, which means more of the weight will be over and in front of the wheels, too--very important with wiggly cargo. So it will be like this (bottom half only in this pic)
I broke down a number of the salvaged signs, and test fit the pieces in various ways and places, and also some thinner wider stuff from some wooden boxes
(which I dont like cuz they seem to be warped quite a bit; probably won't work well for the box area).
These are uncut sign pieces, but a possible layout ofr the base of the box area on hte left side:
if i were to have them extend back to the axle (as originally planned), but because of the kennel overlap,
probalby they'll end up only coverng this much:
and the deck will go up further instead
possible top for the box area; would be cutting hte rounded ends off.
One size of the complete signs fits the rear "quarter panel" area perfectly, so will work for covering that and holding pics of dogs or whatever.
A possible layout for the cargo area, though I don't have any covers on the fenders inside the deck area, and I'll need something; might go with sheet metal off the shelves tack welded in place, bent around the shape of the fender frame. Might use coroplast, or might use wood (but wood is too thick, so probably not).
Also considering putting a wood deck on the rack; it'll reduce noise and add shade to the cargo area (helpful when it's a dog in the crate)
If there's enough wood I'll make a cover for the front trangle too, and possibly the area between the horizontal "toptube" and "downtube" (not shown here)