I dug into the wiring today to prepare for installing this:
and fixed a few issues I'd created last time I did some repairs, mostly in the front triangle covered area, and a bit of stuff on teh front turn signals and headlight wiring still needs redoing after the changeover to the new permanent headlight mount.
Then around midmorning I started on pulling off the old CA 2.23, (I keep thinking its a 2.3 or 2.4 but it's older htan that), and also pulled off the righthand wheel (the bent-up one) to work on changing out some stripped nipples (failed when I was retruing for roundness yesterday).
Right after I'd pretty well made teh trike inoperable, work called to ask if I could come in on my day off (someone else called out sick), but even though I need the hours there was no way to get it back together in the old or new ways in time to do that.
So I plodded ahead, doing the best I could with the bent-up wheel first. It's now pretty round, within a couple mm at the outside of the tire, but it's really messed up side-to-side; it's just not possible to fix both as bad as it is, and I need the roundness more.
Then it was on to installing the TDCM torque sensing BB (I'd already pulled the cranks off and taken the regular one out in the morning). This was a PITA, because of welding slag that had gotten stuck on the BB shel threads deeper inside the shell, big enough to prevent the caps from threading in deep enough, but small enough that I couldn't see or feel any of the bits, and had to just keep running pointy picks and wire brushes along the threads to get them off--took something like two hours to get the whole thing done and installed, and then had to adjust it's position to get the sensor in the right place relative to the chainline.
Since I don't have the right splined tools for the caps, I made do with assorted other tools that worked out, but took quite a bit longer than if I had the right ones. Not worth buying them as I don't do enough work like this to justify it.
Running the wire out was easy, no need to drill a hole, since the whole BB was cut from another frame and has the whole "downtube" hole (and the rest of them) open and empty. At least *one* thing was easy about it.
Mounting the CAv3 was easy, about 10 minutes including running it's wires thru my existing bundle. I left the stem-cap mount on it rather than using the clamping mount, and just slid the cap mount ring over my tiller tube, and then used an old clamp (probably for a seatpost, but I don't know) to push that ring against my bar stem face, and clamp tight on the tiller tube. It's more secure than a starnut and cap would be, and doesnt' weigh that much more (relative to the trike, it's irrelevant).
Wiring in the CAv3...that took some doing. The CAv2.23 was hardwired into the system, and I could've done that with the v3, but I wanted to be able to quickly switch back to the old one if I have to, and/or to bypass functions directly, etc. So that meant putting JSTs on the shunt cable (which runs all the way from back under the deck where the controllers are along the keel up into the triangle covered area) and on the righthand throttle (and the wire from there to the righthand controller). This probably took an hour and a half to two hours, partly because my hands don't always work right and partly cuz its' harder and harder to see the small stuff. :/
By this time, it looked like this, though I wasnt' nearly done with all the wiring fixes and whatnot:
As you can see above, Yogi was bored with the whole thing and had a long nap near me while I worked on the trike. Kirin doesn't sleep as hard as he does, so she woke when I took her pic:
There was already a JST for the throttle wire out of the "CA cable" to the shunt, on the CAv3, that I'd put there for Cvin's Cemoto to match up to it's existing wiring, to minimize rewiring of that bike when we put this on there originally. So I used that as the output to my own controller, just the righthand one, cutting my hardwired throttle and putting JSTs on each end of the cut.
Then my righthand throttle goes into the CAv3's throttle input JST, and can be either passed thru or processed by the CA. If I have problems I can disconnect the CA JSTs and plug the throttle directly to the controller like its always been.
The Aux input is presently hooked to the 3-position switch Cvin had gotten for switching presets on the Cemoto, and I'll use it for the same thing for now.
No temperature sensor yet, but there is one in the MXUS on the left side, so I could monitor that if I like. I'm probably going to put sensors on a few different things, if I have the right kind laying around here (have a few somewhere). and then a switch to choose which to monitor.
TDCM goes to teh PAS JST.
No ebrake connected to the CAv3 yet; it's presently connected only to the contrllers directly. Ran out of daylight and warmth to do that today, andhands hurt too much to continue in the warmer shed by the time I finished all the other critical stuff.
Now the system is setup like this:
Lefthand throttle directly controls the lefthand controller and MXUS motor; this is the more powerful one, with the highest torque.
Righthand throttle goes to CAv3.
TDCM torquePAS goes to CAv3.
CAv3 output goes to righthand controller and HSR3548 motor.
Ebrake goes directly to controllers.
The idea for now is to try out various throttle control and PAS modes and amounts, and see what works best on my work commutes.
For the moment, Preset1 is TorquePAS with PowerThrottle. Preset2 is TorquePAS with CurrentThrottle. Preset3 is No PAS with PassthruThrottle.
All presets limit speed to 20MPH, but that's only on the righthand motor. Lefthand doesn't go thru the CA yet, so I'd have to watch the speedo if using just that one (which is what I've always done anyway).
A basic ride around the block shows stuff seems to be working, though I couldn't test teh speed limiting as there were too many kids and dogs and cars / trucks in the neighborhood to get near that. Was too worn out to deal with traffic on the roads outside that, so real testing will happen tomorrow on my work commute.
Configuration is being done via the Serial/USB cable
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicy ... a-usb.html
with my laptop, using the Grin program, latest version from the website as of earlier today.
I started out by saving the configuration Cvin was using, in case she ever wants to do that kind of thing on another bike, and then updating the CAv3.01 firmware to 3.1 release and letting it reset everything (except protected settings) to defaults, so I'd know I was starting from scratch.
Then I went thru the latest Teklektik's UUG, which is for 3.0e version (couple years old now)
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 45#p571345
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/downl ... ?id=191118
and has some differences from what 3.1 is/does/looks like. I'm still investigating all of what's different/new, so I can be sure I'm setting it up correctly.
But it is close enough to get all the basic stuff setup fine, and start tweaking the PAS and throttle setup to get a start on a usable configuration. (final configuration is going to require a bit of wiring and electronics creation to do exactly what I want, most likely, because I want the independent throttles to override the CA's single throttle output).
There are a few things in both the setup program and the CAv3 itself I wish worked differently, but there may turn out to be ways to make them do what I want anyway, once I figure it all out. I'll write up a list of stuff and post it separately, once I get that far.
I *can* say that 3.1 is significantly better than the 3.0 I started with years back (which blew up from a short in the shunt wiring before I got around to setting up the THUN TorquePAS/etc on CrazyBike2; someday I'd like to repair that one).
On that note, I used the TDCM on SB Cruiser instead of the THUN because the new CA came to me with it, and I prefer one that will sense either side's torque, which the Thun does not. THUN only senses left-side, and my left knee is worse than the right, so harder on me to push off with--if Im trying to use a PAS to startup with, that alone makes the THUN not really work cuz I'd have to have a super low gear for the pedals (or not connect them to the rear wheel at all, just a dummy torque load), to be able to spin the cranks far enough to get PAS to start providing power to start me up.
What I REALLY want is instant-start from torque only, meaning it begins providing power as soon as there is torque on the cranks (maybe require a certain minimum so just having my feet on there doesnt' do it), and not require any rotation first.
This is because if I have a heavy load, like a trailer full of stuff plus a loaded trike, there's going to be some spots where I have to start from a stop that I will be unable to push hard enough on the cranks even in the lowest gear to move the cranks far enough to get the CA to recognize it needs to start powering the motor.
Of course I can use the throttle to startup, but the point of having the TorquePAS is to be able to completely use the pedals to drive the bike when I am physically capable of it (I'm not always).
Sometimes I'm going to just use the throttles to control everything, but eitehr one should be able to work by itself.
I know why the CA looks for rotation plus torque: On a regular bike you could stand on the pedals and it'd see torque and takeoff. Can't really do that on SB Cruiser, so no worries about it here, so I wish I could disable the rotation requirement.
Maybe I can figure out how to fake that part via some external electronics. :/
after having restored Cvin's Cemoto back to it's original pre-CA state, so she can sell it.