Hall sensors and phase wires

Cannon5610

10 µW
Joined
May 8, 2015
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5
I have a baja be 500 with a 48v controller and a 500w hub motor. I added in another battery and the bike worked great afte a few weeks I got greedy and added another battery in to make it 72v. I drove the bike a few blocks and fried the controller. I went to an ebike shop and told the owner what I had done. He suggested I buy a 72v brushless daymak drive controller. Now obviously it will be different wiring then the original controller. I have figured everything out except the hall sensor and phase wires. I haven't hooked the battery up to the bike for fear of blowing something up. With the original controller as long as the phase wires were connected correctly the tire would spin freely but with this new controller every phase wire combination I have tried has not worked. The motor feels like the break grabs every couple seconds. This is the same with every combination.
Any suggestions would be helpful.


St Thomas Ontario Canada.
 
Have you tried all 36 combinations of phase and hall wires? You only mentioned phase wires.
 
Sounds like a shorted phase or hall wire, Does it turn freely with them disconnected? If so this will get the right combo.
phasechart.jpg
 
d8veh said:
Have you tried all 36 combinations of phase and hall wires? You only mentioned phase wires.

Never necessary unless for some strange reason you want to know all 3 valid forward combo's and all 3 valid reverse combo's.


Cannon5610
To protect the system I use a small jumper wire to complete my battery connection, and use only small short throttle pulses. The jumper can't pass high enough current to hurt anything, so it acts like a fuse, and the small pulses protect the jumper from overheating.

Understand that every phase combo has 1 valid hall combo, and every hall combo has 1 valid phase combo. 3 of the valids are forward and 3 are reverse.

Then decide which is easier to swap around, halls or phases, and keep the other set static. Try all 6 combos with just a small short pulse of throttle. That will give you one valid combo, but beware of false positive results which have more startup noise and generally spin the opposite direction of the 1 valid combo.

If the nice smooth running valid is forward, then you're done, though it's good to measure no load current at WOT to be sure with proper connections wired up, not the jumper.

If the valid one is reverse, then swap 2, any 2, only 2 of the wire you were keeping static and go back to the originals and find the valid smooth forward.

To be systematic when swapping, only change 2 at a time. It's all very simple. I've done it a number of times with wires all the same color, and I've also done it with motors having 6 phase wires and 10 hall wire. 3 phase is a piece of cake. Just relax and take your time. Alligator clip jumper wires make the process simple and quick.

Take care to avoid shorts, and if you have the chain on beware of reverses so the pedals don't whack you or get tangled in the wiring.
 
It sounds easy, because it is, in theory.

But for some reason I'm cursed to always find the good reverse first, then have a damned hard time finding the forward.

The problem I have is obvious, on some tries I don't have such a great connection on one of the 7 wires, and so I keep passing that magic correct combination over and over and over, thinking it's not the one. It can have you punching holes in the wall of the garage after about 3 hours of it.

Have patience, come back the next day, and often you find the right combo in 5 min.
 
So it turned out that the second controller was no good. I've got the hall and phase connected so that the tire spins free but can't seem to figure out what to hook my throttle up to on the controller.

St Thomas ont Canada
 
I have a sabavaton 100 amp controller and middrive motor and it was running fine for the longest time but it has started running rough when i try to keep it at a constant speed and at first i thought it was my throttle so i replaced it with a domino throttle and after seeing the video about the wireing i know think the hall sensor is not wired properly dose anyone know if this symptom coud be because the hall or phasees are not wired properly and thank you for your input Lakelizerd
 
If you haven't changed the wiring, then possibly you lost one of the hall signals. You can test this by using a voltmeter to measure each of the hall signal lines (against battery -). With power on but no throttle, slowly turn the motor by hand and watch each hall signal. The signals should toggle back and forth between near zero and near 5v. If one does not toggle, it has a problem.

You could also possibly have a bad connection on a phase wire.

Sometimes you just get a bad contact at one of the connectors. Try unplugging the motor connections and visually inspect the contacts. Make sure the contacts are fully seated in the connector body. For bolted connections, just make sure they're tight.
 
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