What I meant was the scooters original controller was jerky, the sunwin revs quite nice, I swapped to go to 16s but with this controller I would say 12s is plenty for most on boost but I gonna push it but further but the motor needs a rewind first, Ive discharged 12s 16ah through it in 20mins it was a completely flat out harsh ride the controller was no warmer than the batterys and they were only mildly warm for the cost the whole scooter kicks arse it owes me around £300 complete I had the scooter for £90speedmd wrote:Thanks guys, most likely to go with the fixed voltage as it is a more compact case going by the specs. Is it odd that it would pick up power at 30 MPH. Jerky throttle on the first unit? Is it possible that it failed the self learn settings of the motor or had a throttle issue? Looks like a good value if it holds up.
I doubt there is any programming with these controllers. But we can always hope right.BeachRider2016 wrote:So has anyone figured out the programming on these controller? I got a 48v1500w on the way
Someone posted here in the 15 or so pages that its "Medium" speed is default with nothing jumpered. I am not sure if its correct, but when I shorted Black and Yellow, I could tell there was a little less speed.jase1979 wrote:If the 3 speed switch isn't installed. Which speed will the controller be set to?
From what i understand the motors windings are in the stator a big lump of iron with good heat transfer properties but the phase wires coming Into the can are in the magnetic field but they are floating in air so they have worse heat transfer properties an heat gathers thats why its the first spot to melt on a phase is typically the start of the phase or the ends turns, So if the phase wires are floating in air coming into the case its good practice to use a thicker gauge than the winding to help with this weak spot, what you can feel is the heat dissipating along the cable try upgrading to a 8awg if it will fit more the better but keep a eye on the stator core temperatures.KozmoK wrote:After just running it at a short period, the cable from the motor that has the hall cables + the small gauged phase cables is extremely HOT. The Motor is not even warm.
Thanks, its not a hub motor, but just a motor with shaft (goldenmotor BLDC-108) - so it might be easier to take a part. But I see the bigger the wire will help dissapate the heat from the smaller wire closest to the motor. I will try shortening the wire, it currently is 2ft long and I only need about 10" - will cut and and put in the gold plated bullets. It seems the phase wires are only about 12markz wrote:Simplest way is to cut the phase wires as it exits the axle, then install thicker wire.
Or you could go all the way back to the windings, but fishing all the wires through the axle of the motor can be a bit of finagling. If you like the motor, and you can find some PTFE Teflon wire then that is your best bet. And of course do 8mm gold plated bullets.