Maybe it's not a programming port, but rather an LCD (or other display unit) port?bj001 wrote:can anyone confirm this, just wondering if i have a faulty controller?
EABS seems to be a term used more for actual powered braking of the wheel, rather than regen. If yours is like this, then it usually brakes harder than regen, and stays hard down to a much lower speed (some can actively hold the wheel still even at a stop). But it *uses* power to do this, so you'll see power still being consumed rather than recharged, if you're watching your wattmeter during braking on a ride.PeterEnis wrote: I have E-ABS turned on and when I brake with brake low connected I can feel a strong drag from the motor, but I can't measure any current flowing back to the battery, only sometimes it shows very little current flowing back for a very short time (like 0,7A).
Thats good news, hopefully all of Sunwins controllers are sensorless. Really did not want to swap out my MXUS 3KW in Crystalyte DH rim to my wimpy ass Conhismotor. Now I just run MXUS 3K with Sunwin Sensorless and hopefully ride tomorrow.Samd wrote:Well I scratched off the 72v LVC pads on the pcb and it didn't run 10s. But it did run 15s. Can't test 13s or 14s.
And it's nice and smooth.
Also it runs sensorless!!!
I don't actually know exactly.... Too heavy. I'd guess the trike itself weighs at least 300lbs, and I'm 180. But it can pull more than it's own weight easily enough (most so far I think is nearly 600lbs of dog food plus the trailer's weight--that was before the recent changes, so it could do it even better now. I'd like to try towing a car, just to see.... ).markz wrote:Whats the total weight of that setup?
I might be thinking of a different controller, but there are some that have jumpers for the pack voltage you're using, soldered to the board inside.the cut-off voltage is 52V
[/quote]Shunt mod looks like a good idea, more amps is always good!