$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

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Icewrench   10 kW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Icewrench » Nov 04 2017 10:25am

The red lock wire needs to connect to B+ to power up the controller.

markz   100 GW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Nov 04 2017 12:54pm

Well my last issue was the sense wires rubbing on the cover inside the motor. Went to smaller wires so clearances solved. Tried to get it running, no go. Brushless Tester before install had phase and halls working good.

Single Red wire is the lock or ignition wire, I just hardwire it to the red battery wire.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Ianhill » Nov 04 2017 1:02pm

I've got a cheap as chips mhf 300 p shunt meter that can control a relay with undervolt or overcurrent etc so I use that to switch the red wire to battery's positive that way I protect battery from going to low on any cell count then I stop the factory low voltage being a problem by setting it to minimum and use the shunt dispatched as my dash all I need to keep the ride safe.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Lurkin » Nov 04 2017 5:45pm

Thanks guys! up and running on the bench setup with the 1000w model now! It was spinning backwards but I plugged in the self learn while it was on again and it its spinning in the correct direction now. Super. Just need to figure out the other bits of wiring as to what I want from it and go from there. 8)

How does one use PAS with these? I think I will need to add a connection for a CA then run everything though that and use the CA to deal with the PAS settings.. thoughts?

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Lurkin » Nov 04 2017 7:18pm

So from the CA manual I need:

1 - VBatt = 48v+ which is easy.
2 - GND = GND which is also easy.
3 - BI = Shunt (-) ==> Can I use the shunt within the controller?.. - yes.
4 - W = Shunt (+) ==> same question as above - yes.
5 - Y - Speed ==> not sure where to take this from. Dur, hall sensor.
6 - G - ThrOut ==> Dur, throttle signal. Sorted.

*[EDIT] all explained pretty simply here: http://www.ebikeschool.com/add-cycle-an ... ontroller/

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Lurkin » Nov 06 2017 2:54am

Now with CA as well. Win. Suspect something is wrong with using the controller shunt - the current figure on the CA is considerably lower than that coming out (allegedly) from the bench top test power supply. hmmm. Pretty exciting now that its all working! 8)

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by amberwolf » Nov 06 2017 3:53am

You probably just need to set the CA to the actual value of hte shunt. I know it's in one of these, but I dont' recall which one
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/searc ... mit=Search

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Lurkin » Nov 06 2017 4:04am

Yes, I thought the known resistance could be off/incorrect. I will look into that tomorrow. I think accessing/programming will be the next step with this. 8)

markz   100 GW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Nov 11 2017 8:40pm

If you solder off the LVC solder jumper, does it revert back to a 48V 13S controller of something like like 42V LVC (as stated on hksunwins 48V models.)

I am totally guessing that it just might. I was using 60V battery back with the LVC unsoldered on a hksunwin 60V controller, working fine. I just kept a very close eye on the voltage. Now I am using 10S 36V pack and I get nothing. Funny thing is though that the Self Study works, throttle does not reverse the rotation, so I tested it and the throttle, its fine. I can touch the red and sensor wires on the controller and it will reverse. Ignition is connected up.

I see no 48V LVC pads on the pcb. Been looking carefully around the area where the LVC pads are, and over the entire board and I see nothing. hksunwin sells no 36V model, so that brings me back to if no LVC pads are jumpered, its goes to a 48V controller with a LVC of 42, so 13S is 54.6V, and a 42V LVC is 3.25V/cell.

Before I do anything, I will see what I can do to add to my 10S 36V battery, might just have to go back to 60V.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Nov 14 2017 2:36pm

I confirmed that soldering off all LVC jumpers on the pcb, gives you a 48V controller with a LVC of 42V I used a measured ~80V battery 20S battery in which it worked, obviously! and I hooked up a 10S which I measured at ~41.25V which is fully charged. I'm not about to up it to 42.5V or 43V to test it. Looking back my previous pack on that controller was 15S, ~60V and it worked good. I currently have 2 hksunwin controllers with their LVC pads soldered off, and waiting on a 48V 1000W model to be delivered, which will have 60V caps most likely.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Dec 30 2017 5:40pm

I had a 80V 470uF cap break off at its leads, it was on the end of the board, on the other side of where the wires come in, and other side of fets, right in the corner.

The symptom was it was hard to get going, but once going it was fine.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by chilltrout » May 07 2018 8:38pm

Can anybody help me with something?
I just want to confirm that the throttle pad is "ST"
I am adding a CA connector and having some issues with the throttle

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Ianhill » May 07 2018 10:29pm

^^^
chilltrout I'm of no use for the ca I've never owned one sorry.
markz wrote:
Dec 30 2017 5:40pm
I had a 80V 470uF cap break off at its leads, it was on the end of the board, on the other side of where the wires come in, and other side of fets, right in the corner.

The symptom was it was hard to get going, but once going it was fine.
Same symptoms the caps are still in situation but no longer function as intended crap starting torque (fryed)
I'll be swapping them to the best switching electrolytic's i can find and butter the shunt up a little more it seems the issue is the caps switching fast over time they just can not take it electolytic's get hot when frequency through them gets high and I've held them on the limits for a good few hours so they done well.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » May 08 2018 11:52am

I am really hard on my Sunwin controller and its still kicking. I find the trapezoidal waveform too loud, people notice the sound, perhaps because now that it is not winter more people are out. Its only a problem in area's like downtown and riding on sidewalk zigzagging around people.

Not sure if I replaced the cap or if I just reused the old one.
But what I do remember of it, I soldered wire to the cap and moved its location. Another problem was the battery wires shorted on the metal end caps, not sure how long it was doing that. But its still kicking!

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Ianhill » May 08 2018 3:48pm

Do you mean the caps where sparking in the case ? I had this taking the board out it was sparking like mad and it was the caps shorting out so I used some insulation tape in the case under them, it's 2 year old nw and done really well can't fault it for the silly low price and time of its release meant it was a decent buy but know paying a little extra does really get a whole lot more, regeneration, more silent, basic sinewave so smoother and better control of the parameters with Bluetooth.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » May 30 2018 7:47pm

How many amps does the controller pull?

Building another pack and cant decide whether to go PF with its 10A and 2.9Ah or 25R with 2.5Ah and 20A.
4P or 5P, so PF thats 40-50A

Its just a balance, do I want more discahrge (25R) or more capacity (PF)

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Ianhill » Jun 01 2018 4:34pm

I'm thinking of using the Sanyo ncr cells I'm using an old version of them now and they have aged very well.

Like you say it's discharge vs capacity and it's down to space if you can fit a pack large enough to deal with the amp demand and use capacity leaning cells then go for that route for range.

The other route be nights in being lighter for the same dischange but range is what it's all about.

The stock controller puts out 58amp on high mode when on boost, some have soldered the shunt up and got 100 amps out of the controller but I only done mine a little so I had 65amps max at 16s using lipo I was getting 4.4kw fully charged down to 3.2kw when I needed to charge.

The controller can take 20s though so it could run just under 5kw stock and a buttered up shunt could take that over 8kw but I've never been to these levels I fryed my caps way short of that.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by vicens » Jun 04 2018 12:54pm

I've done a bid and won. The model of 72v 500w.
according to the seller is 15 fets and 35A of battery current.

Can you get shunt resistance?
in other controllers add solder for shunt mod. The resistance is variable and imprecise.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by micahstclair » Jun 04 2018 1:07pm

I have been fighting a controller like this, a 48/60/72v 1500w with knob selector. I finally got it going with 72v, but the motor runs constantly. I unhooked the throttle and it was still going. What's going on?

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by amberwolf » Jun 04 2018 2:07pm

If you have the learn wires connected it might do that.

Otherwise it's likely that you have something else connected to the throttle input (and whatever you had the throttle connected to wasn't the throttle input)

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by micahstclair » Jun 06 2018 12:04am

Ok, I did have the learn wire connected. I will un-connect them and see if that works.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Bikebrap » Jun 07 2018 4:11pm

ecycler wrote:
Jan 27 2017 12:00am
Bikebrap wrote:Mine works in sensorless mode when halls get disconected
Which one did you get? Let's talk about the most powerful ones... who is pushing really big power through these things?
I got 1500W one but it is 5,5kW actually and it only gets warm.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by vicens » Jun 24 2018 10:34am

Buy the 72V 500W model at auction.

Buy the 72V model. in case I ever put a 72V battery.

The driver is for my scooter. Of 1500W 60V.

The controller board is the same as always. The cpu is different. Model GPM8F3116A-QL014. The mosfets are different. Model EZ10N16 K703.

I can not find the technical sheet of the mosfet and the cpu.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by vicens » Jun 24 2018 10:56am

Check the resistance of the cut by low tension.

Come to the conclusion of:

Without connected bridge = 42.5V
With 60V bridge = 54V
With 72V bridge = 62.5V
With 84V bridge = 72.5V

Voltage cut by low voltage in CPU = 2.5V

These are good values for lead acid. Not for lithium battery. The cut-off voltage is too high.

I added a 22k resistor in series with the 60V resistor. being that way.

Cut voltage by low voltage. With 22K resistance at 60V bridge = 48.8V

A voltage that is good for a 16S li-ion battery.

You can make a more precise low voltage cutoff adjustment. If you know the law of ohm. With the following scheme.

The original scheme.

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The final scheme.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by RageNR » Jun 28 2018 11:41pm

Prices on these seen to have gone up. I am trying to find a suitable replacement for my Cyclone 3000w.

I am considering 2 options here, but not sure which way to go.
- Get the 15fet version (18fet would be physically too large), and try to beef it up.
- Or go with 2 identical 12fet controllers and run them in parallel.

The single 15fet controller would not be my first pick, due to them being more expensive.
Honestly, I like the idea of running 2 controllers in parallel. You could run one at a time, or both. That also gives you a 50/100% power range, as well as redundancy if one should fail while out riding. Plus the lower end 12fet units are pretty cheap.

I will be running 24s, so that will top out at 99.6v (charging cells to 4.15v). Also would like to push the amps to 60, vs the 40a my Cyclone came with. On avg, running 24s @ 60a will be around 5000w. Obviously not for continuous loads, just to be available if needed.

So which Sunwin should I go for? Should I just get one of the cheaper 72v 500w units and change the caps to higher voltage?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/60V-800W-Elect ... SwQz1bHfPv

My concern is that these have been changed since people started buying them, and they are using much inferior mosfets. I need to be able to run up to 100v at the least, so going with a lower end model might get me lower rated fets.
Does anyone have recent experience with buying from Sunwin this year, that can attest to the 12fet units and what mosfets they are using?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/60V-800W-Elect ... SwQz1bHfPv
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