$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

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wayneinteressierts   100 µW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by wayneinteressierts » Sep 24 2018 10:06pm

markz wrote:
Sep 24 2018 9:55pm
You would need to confirm a gain, otherwise that 0.5V might just be a margin of error because of a cheap measurement device.
A current measurement on the battery would suffice, showing a current one way, and when you think its regen'ing the current should show opposite polarity.
I'll do that but I think I should mention, while the the EBS is slowing the bike going downhill, the voltmeter shows 1-2 volts higher than at standstill.

wayneinteressierts   100 µW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by wayneinteressierts » Sep 24 2018 10:49pm

markz wrote:
Sep 24 2018 9:55pm
You would need to confirm a gain, otherwise that 0.5V might just be a margin of error because of a cheap measurement device.
A current measurement on the battery would suffice, showing a current one way, and when you think its regen'ing the current should show opposite polarity.
Thanks for the pointer. Confirmed:
https://imgur.com/a/0oy6Opa

With sound:
https://imgur.com/gallery/bMzwVYX

And pay no attention to the torque arm. It wouldn't fit as it should but the bolt and washer go through a hole in the dropout to prevent it from moving.

markz   100 GW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Sep 25 2018 1:47pm

I will try out this EBS method you talked about as I have to do some things with my sunwin cont I am using.
- Paint it black for better camo, one of my first steps in making a clean looking, non wire mess ebike.
- I only have 2 bolts holding the fet plate, needs more plus needs cpu heat transfer stuff (forgot the name off hand)
- Epoxy a displaced capacitor to an appropriate location. I used wire and not stock through hole.
- Install a brake button or levers for the EBS modification talked about here.




hksunwin sells these controllers and most likely doesnt know much of anything about the controller he sells.

We can speculate and guess that he buys from a generic lineup of products, buys in bulk depending on hksunwin 's ebay sales, and gets it from a distributor or middle man, or any number of other means of obtaining his products for sale.

There could very well be functions that are available to those controllers that are simple.

Current Mod - EBS with 3 pads.

Simple - Preset LVC using soldered/desoldered "Jumper Pads"

Simple - Changing the LVC to whatever value you want with modifictation and installing a resistor potentiometer.

- Someone mentioned that a cheaper way of obtaining a motor brake is not through regen but a more simpler method of applying electrical power to the motor, or turning off power and shorting the phase wires. I believe that comment was written somewhere in this Sunwin thread somewhere. A search will easily come up with the how.

Hard - Another mentions of a possible means of programing the controller, but that never materialized. There is a very slight chance of this working, by back engineering the pcb and its logic chips. It is not a time worthy endeavour for those with the skillzzzzz, but if there was a schematic found somewhere on the interweb, then a quick glance by any of the electrical/electronic genius' would reveal additional info.

Sure they are cheap controllers, people have noticed the prices go up and of course they've seen prices stay around historical price levels. How these compare to other generic controllers in terms of internal design is probably on par as generics go.



However in the meantime its sunny out, probably have decently warm weather outside now that it is 1pm, so I am going to go e-riding and think about installing a chain on the eride I am riding and not pedaling. I just hope no one throws a "Well you could live down south where its hot" "and not deal with coldness" but then I wouldnt have free (to me) healthcare.
Last edited by markz on Sep 27 2018 1:05pm, edited 2 times in total.

randysway   10 µW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by randysway » Sep 27 2018 12:38pm

Sup y'all! Been lurking here all summer - feeding my new ebike obsession - and I've gathered a TON of info from everyone here. I figured it's about time to give back. There's a lot more where this came from, and I will be consolidating all the documents I have over the next week in a git repo. If the wiki is lost, we've gotta start somewhere.

Anyway. This is probably my favorite controller out of the 8 I own. The board itself is made by a company called "Enoch" (Chinese, obviously). and comes in versions with 9 to 24 fets. Below is all the documentation that I've found (that exists?) + translated. My build is a 1kW unbranded 9-Continents knockoff, and 48v 13s9p battery. With this controller, I've peaked at 2900W for ~40sec =D.

Little clarifications on terms/translations: "Slip" refers to coasting(?), "Boost" is enabled for 1 minute after toggling, and this controller's 3-speed-setting can be toggled by either momentary or double-throw switch. Cheers.


##### Enoch 15 Mosfet controller board

The controller is divided into two types: sine wave and square wave. Under normal circumstances, the sine wave controller generates a lot of heat compared to the square wave controller, but the noise is much improved.
The main difference between sine/square wave is control method. The efficiency generated by the device is higher than 15% of the square wave controller, the noise is low, the torque is large, and the mileage is increased by 15% relative to the square wave controller (under the same conditions), and the motor field oriented control technology is adopted.
The controller's superior starting torque and tight battery current limit allow it to operate under relatively small battery current conditions while providing superior acceleration and gradeability.
At the same time, the regenerative braking control performs energy recovery during braking, effectively extending the cruising range and reducing energy consumption.

##### Controller Features/Functions

1. fault detection and protection. The fault can be identified by the LED flashing code.
2. Real-time monitoring of battery voltage. If the battery voltage is too high or too low, it will stop working.
3. Built-in current detection and overcurrent protection.
4. The controller has temperature measurement and protection functions. At high temperatures, current cuts are made to protect the controller and battery. If the controller temperature is higher than 90 °C, the current will drop sharply, and the output will be automatically cut off when it reaches 100 °C.
5. During power generation, the voltage will always be in the state monitored by the controller. If the voltage is found to be too high, the controller will immediately cut the current until it stops generating electricity.
6. The parameters of the controller can be configured by connecting the serial port of the computer.
7. The three switch inputs are high level brake input, low level brake input and two speed switching input.
8. a 0-5V analog input, that is, the analog input signal .
9. can be configured energy-saving mode. As the energy saving mode, the current of the battery current can be selected as a half current mode.
10. Configurable anti-theft alarm function. In the alarm state, the vehicle body is vibrated or the wheel is forcibly pushed, the system enters an alarm state, and the motor will be electrically braked.
11. enhanced power generation brake function. The original ABS brake technology makes your brakes more powerful and smooth.
12. 3-phase Hall position sensor input, open collector output, controller provides pull-up resistor , providing 5V power supply. Second, the characteristics
13. Battery protection function: When the battery voltage is low, the current will be attenuated in time, and when it is too low, the output will be stopped to protect the battery.
15. Compatible with 60 or 120 degree Hall sensor
16. During operation, when the acceleration switch is released or braked, there will be a regenerative current to charge the battery.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------- 18 Fet (ENO-18CM-10) Controller -----------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Board character Function definition

U, V, W Motor phase line
HU, HV, HW Motor Hall
P+ Battery Terminal POS
P- Battery Terminal NEG
GND Ground
SD+ Positive instrument/gauge/tool (speed,volt or current?)
SD- Negative meter
VCC Electric door lock positive power supply
ZH, VH, 4.3V Hall and boost positive power
TH, H4.3V Turn positive power
BH Brake High/Cut Engine -> 12-48v
BL Low level brake power off -> GND
EBS Electronic Braking Toggle -> GND
XH 1) pair of locations for manual cruise
2) grounding 6-8 sends auto cruise
3) one-click repair function
FD- Low level anti-theft -> GND
FD+ High level anti-theft -> 5v
XS Hardware speed limit
DC Reverse Gear
TS Speed ​​control switch Toggle?
XX Self-learning
ZL Ground forced with Hall mode
72V, 60V, 64V Undervoltage selection with power supply voltage
TX Climbing/High-Torque Gear
LO 3-Speed button
HI Boost Gear Toggle
RX Cruise-Regeneration Indicator -> LED

# Speed Control Pads

1, 14, 44 feet:
Pin 1: Motor Hall input
Pin 2: Brake Active low
Pin 3: Program burning port
Pin 4: NC
Pin 5: Regeneration LED
Pin 6: High-torque boost toggle
Pin 7: LO 3 speed switch
Pin 8: HI 3 speed switch
Pin 9: FD anti-theft low
Pin 10: Reverse, active low
Pin 11: NC
Pin 12: Sensorless(no Hall) adj circuit
Pin 13: ditto ^^
Pin ??: VSS chip ground
Pin 14: Motor Hall input
Pin 15: ZL power

Pin 16: Cruise control
- manual cruise toggle
- auto cruise jumper
- Walk assist (?) (one-key repair)

One-key repair activated if:
- undervoltage
- controller will limit the current to 5A if toggled,continues to drive the motor and press this button again to stop, so that the user can easily push the cart.
- throttle not reset
- If the throttle is broken, this toggles 50% speed cruise.
- The user can use this button to temporarily replace the throttle as soon as possible to the repair shop for repair.
- accidental shutdown protection engaged
- one-key repair off by default

Pin 17: W phase lower arm drive, normal standby state is high level (greater than 4v)
Pin 18: W-phase upper arm drive, normal standby state is low level (0v)
Pin 19: V-phase lower arm drive, normal standby state is high level (greater than 4v)
Pin 20: V-phase upper arm drive, normal standby state is low level (0v)
Pin 23: U-phase lower arm drive, normal standby state is high level (greater than 4v)
Pin 24: U-phase upper arm drive, normal standby state is low level (0v)
- These 6 are power tube drive control signals.
- If the voltage is abnormal, the power tube may be burnt out
- If the indicator light indicates that the power tube is damaged. The cause may be chip damage.
Pin 25: V18 user is not available. Need to connect 2.2uf capacitor to ground
Pin 26: Fault LED
Pin 28: ABS brake toggle. Enabled when pulled low
Pin 27: Analog Hall Input
Pin 29: Analog Hall Input
Pin 30: Analog Hall Input
Pin 31: NC
Pin 32: The normal two standby voltages are about 1.26v.
Pin 33: Current sampling port
Pin 34: Current acquisition signal amplification
- Normal standby voltage is about 0.12
- If the voltage of these 4 pins is abnormal
- the current limit may be too small
* the current may not be limited.
- If the voltage of this Pin is abnormal, check R9, R10, R28, Pin R29
Pin 29: Anti-theft Alarm, active low
Pin 30: High-SPEED boost toggle
Pin 36: Overcurrent protection signal input
- normal standby state voltage is 0
Pin 37: Overcurrent protection point configuration pin.
- This Pin voltage determines the overcurrent protection point.
- The lower the voltage, the more sensitive the protection.
- If voltage set too low, the controller will be weak, the load capacity is not strong
- If the voltage set too high. It will also cause normal protection.
- When the mos is damaged or other abnormal conditions cause large current, it cannot be protected in time and the power tube is burned.
- The protection point is calculated as the voltage of this Pin / wire resistance (eg below)
- Assuming Pin = 0.28v
- resistance of copper wire = 5 ohms
- short-circuit protection current is 0.28 /0.005 = 56A.
Pin 38: Voltage sampling port
- when the power supply voltage is 48v, the normal voltage of this Pin should be around 2.8v.
- If voltage is abnormal, it may cause incorrect undervoltage protection or ABS brake without overvoltage.
Pin 39: Throttle signal input
Pin 40: Vcc 5V
Pin 41: NC
Pin 42: Self-Learning (active low)
Pin 44: Motor Hall input

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------ Debugging Controller --------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

LED Status Codes:
- Mos Failure (1 long preface)
- 1 short 1st Mos tube failure
- 2 short 2nd Mos tube failure
- 3 short 3rd Mos tube failure
- 4 short 4th Mos tube failure
- 5 short 5th Mos tube failure
- 6 short 6th Mos tube failure
- 1 long 7 short-phase line short circuit, or drive part of the fault
- light static flashing normal, turn the motor card, the light flashes 7 times, the power tube is normal, the upper and lower bridge drive fault)
- If the chip is damaged, it may cause the LED to indicate such a fault.
- refer to the chip, 17-20,23-24 Pin description.
- Slowly flashing evenly (on for 1 second off for 1 second) No Hall mode Normal standby state
- Evenly flashing slowly (on for 0.5 second off for 0.5 seconds) with Hall mode Normal standby state


1 fast flash 1 time pause 1 second
Failure: brake
Possible cause: chip Pin 2 is low

2 flash 2 times pause 1 second
Failure: overcurrent
Possible causes: High current during operation, such as phase line short circuit, power tube damage or drive circuit failure, or overcurrent protection circuit configuration is incorrect. Refer to Chips 36 and 37 for instructions.

3 fast flash 3 times pause 1 second
Failure: blocked
Possible causes: large load stall or analog Hall fault, toggle motor rotation, check chip 27, 29, 30 feet for level change (multimeter may not be measured, use oscilloscope)

4 fast flash 4 times pause 1 second
Failure: undervoltage
Possible cause: The battery voltage is too low or the voltage detection circuit is abnormal. Refer to the 38th Pin of the reference chip.

5, fast flash 5 times pause 1 second
Failure: operational amplifier failure
Possible cause: chip damage or op amp configuration circuit failure, please refer to chip 33, 34, 35, foot description

6, fast flash 7 times pause 1 second
Failure: lack of phase
Possible cause: lack of phase, please check if the motor cable is connected, or whether the corresponding drive part is normal.

Hall Sensor Signal:
- When motor is rotated by hand, there should be high and low level changes.
- If there is no change, the motor Hall is bad or the corresponding circuit is faulty.
- At this time, the system will automatically switch to Hallless mode.
- Automatically switch to Hall work when the fault is removed

Debugging Note:
- Multimeter to VCC circuit
- serially connect the digital ammeter of 200mA. Normally, static current of controller is < 50mA.
- If the plug-in is inserted incorrectly or short-circuited, the capacitors will leak
- Leak -> The current value will be significantly larger.
- This makes it easy to detect implicit insertion errors, short circuits, or capacitor leakage, etc.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------- GPM8F3116 Microcontroller ------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Temperature_Resistance: GPM8F3116 is an automotive-grade single-chip microcomputer, safe working temperature up to -40 ° C - +150 ° C

Anti_Interference: GPM8F3116 built-in 16K FLASH space, can output 6 independent 16-bit PWM with dead zone protection, internal independent op amp, more than 4 times higher than the external op amp, protection measures 2 subtle. Effective control of high temperature, low temperature, vibration, electromagnetic interference.

Frequency: GPM8F3116 dual-core design, working frequency up to 32Mhz, calculation speed and processing capacity higher than the current market, PIC16F72, CY8C2443A, NEC9234, NEC9211, AMEGA48, TMP88F846UG, Renesas OCO62, STM8S903... 90%.

Performance: GPM8F3116 adopts linear RISC structure instruction execution speed is higher than that of all chips in the market using 8051, which is especially obvious in driving high-speed motors and applicable requirements for power devices.

GPM8F3116: LQFPF package, pin 44PING, 35 IO ports, 23 of which can be used for function expansion, to achieve control digital intelligence integration, improve the stability and superiority of the entire controller.

Design: GPM8F3116 is designed and developed by Enoch in cooperation with famous foreign semiconductor companies. The software was independently developed by Enoch. Enoch relied on more than ten years of market experience. The software developed for the market is practical, simple, and stable. It is superior to the controller board of the same industry and improves the market competitiveness.

UltraQuietOperation: s
1) Synchronous rectification technology can greatly reduce the heat generation of the controller and ensure the safe operation of the controller.
2) Synchronous freewheeling technology: can greatly reduce the noise when the motor starts and runs.
3) Constant current control technology: improves torque on accel and climbing ability.
4) Dual current control of wave-by-wave current and average current is adopted.

Brief description: Digital smart board, software default power-on 36V/48V universal, if you need 24V and 60V/64, 72V, 84V will connect the two pads on the board, and change the capacitor withstand voltage and power resistance accordingly.
Compatible with normal, self-learning, no Hall, 24V, 36V, 48V, 60V\64V, 72V.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------- ENO-18CM-10 Self-Learning Steps--------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

# Official instructions

1. When the power is turned on (the door lock), the motor will automatically enter the learning state.
2. Insert the identification line, the motor will reverse, or the learning line will not turn the rotary handle, the motor will also reverse.
3. When used in an ordinary automaker, you can manually adjust the phase without using a learning line.
4. When there is no Hall, the learning line can be repurposed


# Endless Sphere instructions

1. Make sure your battery / power supply can deliver enough power.
2. Plug in the Black and Red power line
3. Engage self-study wire
4. Connect the key wire (Orange) to +V and the motor should start spinning
5. Let it spin for awhile for the controller to learn the phase angle of the Hall probes
6. Disconnect self-study wire and the motor should stop, DO NOT ramp up throttle at this stage as it will make the controller unlearn step 5
7. Disengage Key to let the controller save the configuration, DO NOT disconnect the Power wires!
8. Reconnect the Key wire, and self learning is done, motor should now respond to throttle command.
9. Configuration is now permanently stored, power cable can now be unplugged without erasing the self-learned configuration.
10. Enjoy

randysway   10 µW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by randysway » Sep 27 2018 12:41pm

If anybody prefers, these are the direct translations of pad function.

##### ENO-24CM-10 Pad Function Descriptions ####

XX: The learning port connects the motor wires, power cables and function wires, and connects the learning wires. When the power is turned on (the door lock), the motor will automatically enter the learning state. On the line, the motor will reverse, or the learning line will not turn the handle and the motor will reverse. When used in an ordinary automaker, you can manually adjust the phase without using a learning line. When there is no Hall, the learning line can be used according to the habits of individuals and maintenance personnel. Special attention: After the learning line is completed, it must be disconnected and protected to avoid malfunction of the frame and affect the normal use of the controller. Connection method: ground and signal line (grounding is valid)

ZL: boost port grounding forced Hall mode mode

XS: The speed limit port hardware speed limit, the exercise speed is limited to 20km / h . Connection: ground and signal line (grounding is valid). The lithium battery board has no hardware speed limit function.

DC: The reversing port is mostly used on three wheels to adjust the vehicle stop and direction. Connection method: Normal, positive and negative power supply, signal line, and electric door lock (grounding is effective), which is subject to actual usage.

FD: Anti-theft port This function is an external electronic anti-theft device. When the vehicle is separated, it can effectively prevent theft of the vehicle. There are two types of connection: four-wire anti-theft device: positive, negative main power, electric door lock, signal line. Five-wire type: positive, negative main power, electric door lock, signal line, any motor phase line. (valid for the ground)

BL: Low-level brake power-off port can effectively protect the safety of the controller and the driver. The working mode, the controller is powered off first, then the mechanical brake. Connection method: ground and signal line, (grounding is valid)

BH: High-level brake power-off port can effectively protect the safety of the controller and the driver. The working mode, the controller is powered off first, then the mechanical brake. Connection method: signal line ( effective for positive power 12V or more)

EBS: Flexible EABS electronic brake can effectively protect controller and driver safety, automotive grade EABS, working mode, controller power off first, then EABS action, then mechanical brake. Connection: Signal line and ground line (grounded) are powered on by default.

TX: Low-speed climbing or software speed limit speed control is about 30km/h , high torque uphill is more powerful, and it can also be used to switch three-speed low speed. Connection: ground and signal line (grounding is valid).

SD: Positive instrument selection according to user's use of instrument

SD: Negative instrument selection according to user's use of instrument

HI : Overspeed or switch three-speed high-speed to improve vehicle speed, compatible with switch three-speed high-speed (switch three-speed connection: HI high-speed, ground, TX low speed, default normal speed) grounding is effective. Hall mode is valid, no Hall is invalid

LO: Button three-speed or three-speed default normal speed, press the high speed, then press the low speed, then press the normal speed. This cycle cuts the speed. Connection method: ground wire, signal wire (effective for ground)

XH: Manual and automatic cruise manual jog cruise, press the ground to disconnect for manual cruise, auto cruise: for power-on default, that is, the signal ground connection is good, the turn is not moving for 6-8 seconds to release Turn the handle, the motor will run at a constant speed, and then turn the handle again to unlock. (valid for ground or ground)

XH: The cruise port is compatible with the push-to-talk function and the brake is powered off without resetting the fault: the cruise function. When there is undervoltage and brake power failure, there is no reset fault: it is a push-to-talk function. The push-to-talk function description is as follows

RX : Sliding anti-charge indicator light. When the vehicle is slid in the middle of the ride, the indicator light is on, indicating that the vehicle is coasting and recharging. The positive indicator light is connected to the RX port, and the negative pole of the lamp is grounded.

# Repair function instructions

1 , XH function port brake, undervoltage fault, for manual and automatic cruise, effective for the ground

2. The brake is broken when the bicycle is broken (the brake power off switch is not reset). At this time, the XH port is grounded, the car will continue to drive at 20% speed, and the XH port will be disconnected .

3 , under pressure during riding, at this time the XH port is grounded, the car will continue to drive at 20% speed, disconnect the XH port to stop driving.

This one-button repair function: for the car in the middle of the road is bad, to avoid the user's implementation or implementation difficulties, to make emergency handling methods, in order to arrive at the repair shop repair. This feature is more humane, reducing the embarrassing situation of the car on the road

wayneinteressierts   100 µW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by wayneinteressierts » Sep 27 2018 11:25pm

wayneinteressierts wrote:
Sep 24 2018 9:23pm
Maybe there's a small chance that the regen EBS is due to this wiring vs however yours is wired? Or is it just ground and it's a programming thing?

Image
Image
It's the programming. I confirmed with my multimeter that the top pad of the EBS jumper is the same as the EBS1 pad and the bottom pad of the jumper is ground.

vicens   100 W

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by vicens » Dec 07 2018 2:11pm

wayneinteressierts wrote:
Sep 24 2018 8:46pm
vicens wrote:
Jun 24 2018 10:34am
Buy the 72V 500W model at auction.

Buy the 72V model. in case I ever put a 72V battery.

The driver is for my scooter. Of 1500W 60V.

The controller board is the same as always. The cpu is different. Model GPM8F3116A-QL014. The mosfets are different. Model EZ10N16 K703.

I can not find the technical sheet of the mosfet and the cpu.

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Here you go:
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/Gener ... 193858.pdf

Can someone tell me why there are 3 contacts for EBS? And what is the other EBS plug purple wire soldered to?
thank you

Ebs two points together. Is to activate ebs by default.
Ebs with blue cable. Is to activate or deactivate the ebs. Connecting or disconnected in blue outer cable.

markz   100 GW

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Location: Alberta Canada

Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Dec 14 2018 8:35pm

Anyone get regen braking on these, the labeling is long off mine.
I dont want regeneration of power, just regen braking to save on buying brake pads. Always nice to have a $250USD Kelly or Powervelocity controller but I am just too cheap. Onto the search, found some info. This post will be me book mark, as I usually do anyways.

E-ABS https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 0#p1161867

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1176849

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1176902
Someone posted that it's just a case of connecting the two blue (EBS) wires together. Have a look through the last couple of pages.

*Edit

Samd wrote:
Regen works a treat with the blue wires joined
I will find my other new controller, and see how the old one is doing because its taken a lot of abuse.

Firedog   10 mW

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Troubleshoot 48-72v 1500w Sunwin controller

Post by Firedog » Dec 27 2018 3:08pm

I connected the subject controller to a Crystalyte 5303 motor with 72v battery. The only connections used; battery +/-, hall sensor, phase wires, throttle and controller on power wire. The controller has 100V caps and solder pads marked 60v, 64v, 72, 80v. I left those as received. I shop test the controller and motor and all seemed normal. I also tested the motor with a smaller controller and battery and the controller with a smaller hub motor. Again, all seemed normal.

I took the bike for a brief ride; 2 blocks flat and a short 6% hill. Very strong. Coming back down the hill, the hub shuttered, no power and no throttle effect. I was able to pedal the bike slowly back with the motor shuttering.

I tested the motor and the green hall was dead, although it was receiving red/black voltage. I've order hall sensors and a fairly confident I can repair the motor.

The is controller also bad. Connecting the phase wires to any hub motor stops the wheel from spinning freely. It doesn't matter if the controller is off, on or even connected to a battery. Very similar to shorting 2 phase wires and trying to spin a motor. An ohm meter between any 2 of the controller's phase wires on the controller shows none are shorted.

I've tried to find a tutorial on troubleshooting a bad controller without success. I'm not worried about salvaging the controller, but I don't want to repeat the failure. It unusual to have a failure of both controller and motor unless they are related.

If anyone has an idea what happened or link to a tutorial that might help me, I would appreciate the info.
Attachments
SAM_0003r.jpg

markz   100 GW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Jan 19 2019 4:21pm

Quick question
What kind of power have people been getting with added bus bars and current shunt mod?
Compared to stock form?

markz   100 GW

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Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Jan 19 2019 4:27pm

eee291 states shunt mod 3kw bursts
Ianhill states 58A on High, some soldered shunt for 100A his a little mod for 65A 4.4kw


This is an interesting post. 2nd # is current limit. Makes sense, I have 3 or 4, picked one Im eyeballing for shunt mod, 2nd number is 45. It states 1500W, 48V (meaningless because you can soldered the voltage divider resistor to what you want). The one on my bike now is smaller.
phil o' dendron wrote:
Aug 20 2016 8:12am
I bought two 84V 1000W controllers from sunwin (one as spare) for my bicycle.
The label says "SH84U35GV15T-WZ3".

Both have immediate start, no delay.

Stock current limit is
Speed I: 33-35A (oscillating a bit)
Speed II: 50-51A
Speed III: same 50-51A.

so Suggs may be right when guessing the second number is the current limit.

For the spreadsheet, if still relevant:
Board: ENO 15CM-V8.1
15 FET MXP1007AT

Controller gets a little warm @4500W max. Thicker wires and beefing up the board traces did not help much.

There's an additional feature I have not read in this thread:
Set speed switch to III (IIRC black & blue connected).
Accelerate to full speed, keep that speed for about 5 seconds.
There is an extra boost, you gain about 7-10 kph. Voltage and current change fast (about 85-90V), not easy to watch on the CA.
That effect only shows under load, not when the wheel is in the air (btw, no-load-speed @Speed III is crazy, this goes to eleven! :mrgreen: )

What is this? Going sensorless? Field weakening?

What battery current do you think is "safe" when modding the shunt?

Ianhill   1 MW

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by Ianhill » Jan 19 2019 4:57pm

My controller is knackered now if I hold the ride back it just acts like there's a bad hall but the motor is fine so it's sat in shed for a year nw it's gonna end up down the tip but it served well for the price, I think it's a simple fix properly not burned out but I just don't have the time and have moved on from them but still recommend them for the price it's still unbeatable.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Jan 19 2019 5:30pm

I am taking apart mine now, I noticed a missing fet screw, had to cut the end plate off, the cap I wired in still working good. Only issue is I ripped out the self learn white wire from the pcb.
I just realized the controller I've been using all this time is the 60V 800W 30A model, no modifications.
I have two others I've never used, a 84V 1000W 35A and the one I am putting on my bike today is the 48V 1500W 45A.
Back to the first one, I will modify it with extra copper bus bars (that I have), and the shunt modification, that will be practice for the 1500W 45A model. If all goes well, I will give the first one away.



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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Jan 19 2019 5:46pm

This is a good reminder, I will activate mine on the 45A which is the highest for hksunwin in stock form.
There is probably nothing to program on these boards as the LVC is just the resistor newtork and the current would be the shunts. These boards probably have multiple options for different chips and B.O.M.'s.
Suggs wrote:
Jun 13 2016 7:09am
Samd wrote:Same issue as others. No e abs on this particular 48v 1000w unit. I'm opening it up.
I tested mine (unloaded) at the weekend and got regen working. Connected the two blue wires together (e-abs?) and when you short the brake low wires it activates.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Jan 19 2019 11:10pm

Did some searching and said f-it, taking a shunt off the first one I have been using for years now, and going to place it on the 48V 1500W 45A.
A) I am thinking I should straighten it out and place it on the backside?
B) Leave it as it is, but not sink it too deep into the solder on the backside.
I am 50/50. Thinking I should leave it as it is now.
Perhaps 15 more amps?!?!?!?!?! 45A/3 is 15A and 45 + 15 is 60A and I am used to 30A pushing my heavy butt around. Its nice it warmed up, perhaps I go for a midnight run and scare all the drunks at the local neighborhood pub. Almost smoked one a year ago, nice summer night, they were just getting on the sidewalk.

Shunt is unmeasurable with my DMM.
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Test rode it and its got some more power off the line, get up to speed quicker and in the snow it does not lose power. Definite improvement but its a longer controller not that that matters because it will go from the top of the rack, to the side of the rack closer to the wires coming out of the motors axle with beefier wires. I just twisted the phases and halls on and taped them good, so that might be causing the stuttering from a stop. Warmer out tomorrow so I will do the usual hills and see.

OK So I rode it a few times now. Labelled 45A added a shunt so I am assuming its atleast 55A.
Going up this zigzag pathway, with hard packed snow, it felt good, of course I helped it out with some pedaling which I had to stop and take a break. But it goes up good with little help.
https://www.google.com/maps/@50.8879903 ... 3709,17.5z

That is nothing compared to this one, from the pathway bridge, curves then 18% to 25% around the other bend. If you go satellite, you can see how people went around the zigzag gate.

Another steep one here, the cyclone 3kw could do it from a stop.
https://www.google.com/maps/@50.9223211 ... a=!3m1!1e3

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Jan 25 2019 11:56pm

With the controller mod, it will jerk and almost feels like it will go in reverse but it wont. Will do that when it is from 0kph to 2kph then its fine.
Yesterday, I was cruising up a 4% slope, at about 35kph and it felt like a rubber ball over a chain link fence, with noise. Stopped and very slowly got it past 2kph and it was fine. Very odd, almost like a hall sensor is off kilter.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by randysway » Jan 29 2019 5:05pm

My guess is the 'jerk' you're feeling is overcurrent protection kicking in, and the controller shutting off briefly. In my experience, a blown mostfet isn't too far off if you're tripping it regularly.

I believe over-current protection kicks in at 60A, but I'm not certain of this. (I've been able to push it to 57A without modifying the shunt)

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Jan 29 2019 7:33pm

...so I should shave a bit off the shunt I added and find the sweet spot.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Feb 21 2019 6:06pm

Last night my cont was working fine, now its not. Opened errr up and I see the green wire with green housing and female bullet came off the pcb, it was not in use and the frayed was well withing the bunch of wires. Found some discoloration that seems to be the culprit.

culprit.jpg
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loose.jpg
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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by markz » Feb 21 2019 6:41pm

Took out the resistor for LVC and its an open. I tripled checked on all ranges of the DMM as this is an oddball dmm in that way.
That is good, nothing else looks abnormal.
One thing to note, I did measure 750 while it was still connected.

I need to bring the LVC up a tad so I gotta find the values I posted on this, I remember having a sheet of paper I wrote the #'s on, and doing test rides for when the cont cut off. I am on a 36V pack, so will get it to about 3.25V/cell.



Sunwin LVC.jpg
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blown LVC.jpg
Remember there is the 131 resistor still on the pcb not counted in pic
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The blown resistor is actually a ?? red violet yellow
I have a pack of NTE 4.7k 2% resistor which is what I'd assume was installed, discolored end color could very well be a red.

I have to mount the controller properly now, I think some water got into it because I had the wires coming out of the controller box facing upward, prime for water to get in there. I thought I had fried the controller.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by PITMIX » Mar 15 2019 1:46am

Hello I have 2 controllers Sunwin 48/60 / 72v 1500w but they cut when the intensity is too strong.
Is it possible to change this security and how to do it?

I changed the shunts and currently the maximum intensity is 84A instead of 58A originally.
But if I accelerate to 100% there is a total power cut. It is necessary to let go of the accelerator so that the controller starts again.
I ordered a module usb-ttl but I do not know what software to download to change the settings.
Thanks for your help
See you soon

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by amberwolf » Mar 15 2019 3:01am

That's probably your battery's BMS cutting out, shutting down because it can't handle the higher current draw.

You'll need to get a better battery, or parallel a second one with the first, so the total current capability is enough to match or exceed the controller's demand.

Or undo the controller modification, so it isn't pushing the battery too hard.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by PITMIX » Mar 15 2019 9:15am

No it is the controller because I shunted the BMS and my battery is a LG Chem 30Ah 20s NMC it largely supports the requested power.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by amberwolf » Mar 15 2019 9:58pm

What votlage does the battery dip down to under the load?

What is the controller's LVC?

If the battery dips below the LVC, and the LVC is correct for a 20s or lower pack, then it is still the battery being unable to handle the load, even though the controller is shutting down because of it.

If the battery does not dip below the LVC, then the controller is shutting down for some ohter reason.

If the LVC is set higher than a 20s pack, then the controller is shutting down early when the pack dips below that point under load, and the controller needs it's LVC changed to match the pack being used.

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Re: $14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Post by exe » Mar 17 2019 7:30pm

randysway wrote:
Sep 27 2018 12:41pm

BL: Low-level brake power-off port can effectively protect the safety of the controller and the driver. The working mode, the controller is powered off first, then the mechanical brake. Connection method: ground and signal line, (grounding is valid)

BH: High-level brake power-off port can effectively protect the safety of the controller and the driver. The working mode, the controller is powered off first, then the mechanical brake. Connection method: signal line ( effective for positive power 12V or more)

EBS: Flexible EABS electronic brake can effectively protect controller and driver safety, automotive grade EABS, working mode, controller power off first, then EABS action, then mechanical brake. Connection: Signal line and ground line (grounded) are powered on by default.
Effectively what is the difference between BL and BH? They both just cut power, is this correct?

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