eZee motor + fork with a through axle ?

[docnjoj]

Oh! I was thinking of those magicians steel rings that look solid but can be whapped together to go inside and make a chain! I guess I missed the "repair" part!
otherDoc

[Almasi]

Oh! I was thinking of those magicians steel rings that look solid but can be whapped together to go inside and make a chain! I guess I missed the "repair" part!
otherDoc

We can always ask Chris Angel to swap the air tube

[Nimbuzz]

What about putting a 3 or 4 mm aircraft grade machine screw through the fork bottom and the axle on the side with no wires and another 2 mm screw on the wire side missing the wires. These screws would go straight through the axle and have a nylox nut on the protruding end.

[Toshi]

Oh! I was thinking of those magicians steel rings that look solid but can be whapped together to go inside and make a chain! I guess I missed the "repair" part!
otherDoc

i have seen a tube prototype that is like a C instead of an O. supposedly for BMXers so that they don't have to remove their (bolted-on) wheels to change a flat. one would think it'd be lumpy at the part where the two blind ends come together.

to the OP: good work on making a 20mm through-axle work. looks nice. i agree with the others in that a torque arm would definitely be a good thing.

[LogRaam]

I think drilling through Ezee axle could weak its structural integrity.
The wired axle’s interface is a “C” sleeve (allowing the sleeve to setup around wires without having to cut connections); maybe I can work something around the “C” shape, like inserting a “locking notch” in the “C’s opening” and bolting it on the side of the suspension clamp.



If I figure out how to fix the lock on the clamp, I’ll let you know.

LogRaam

[Nimbuzz]

dd

[Nimbuzz]

Log -- I have a similar set of forks I'd like to set up for a motor. If you have your motor and adaptors apart I would really appreciate it if you take close up pics and post them here.

Thanks,

[LogRaam]

In fact, I have no photos of each interface separately. But I will try to draw some diagrams for you to be able to do it yourself. I will post the schems soon.. Some details on the adaptation of a hub motor on a suspension fork:

1. You need to change your springs for the sturdiest since the additional weight of the motor hub work against you and the suspension is trying to stabilize the front wheel. The result is that when you turn, you feel a kind of "delay" in the direction against the weight of the motor hub. This "delay" reduced response time (accuracy) of management. Using the toughest springs will reduce the flex. For example, now I have to reduce my speed for each turn if I want to stay on the trail; if I don’t reduce my speed, then the fork twist and flex and what is supposed to be a sharp turn become a wide turn until I hit a tree.
2. For now, the suspension of the axle drive interface is fixed and it takes time to remove it and put it up again. This is not a problem until you want to remove your wheel for maintenance.
3. The good thing with this type of suspension is that you can press the biggest barrier to higher speeds without loss of your rim or spokes.
I bought the Ezee front hub for torque and use in winter (unfortunately) because the front hub when they are available at this time. But now, Ezee have a new rear hub conversion kit, which is what I would buy today if I had. If you want maximum control of your bike, you do not want to add weight to your front wheel.

LogRaam

[Nimbuzz]

Good stuff = Thanks for info log!

[LogRaam]

Ok, first update. Instead of drawing some sketches, I think you can build your own from the following pictures.



The first sleeve is the C-shaped one used to be on the side of your wires. Make this one longer so it should protect your wires if you fall.







Locking bolt prevent the sleeve to unscrew.



And locking washer prevent locking bolt from loosening.



O-shaped sleeve used on the side without wires.



The O-shaped sleeve is shorter than the C-shaped one. No need of a longer one without wires to protect from a crash.



Make the sleeve circumference wider than the inner-clamp of the suspension fork; then tighten it to maximum without breaking the clamp.





Originally, I drilled both sleeves and fit a "hallen bolt" in it to secure the sleeve against the motor's axle for spinning prevention... but there is no way to get inside the clamp to screw them on

What secure the sleeves from spinning? Actually, there is a locking washer, a locking bolt, lock tight liquid (blue one) and 2 hallen bolts on each clamp to tighten it around the sleeve. After 945 km, the axle didn't spin.

If we take a look at the interface from setup to what it look like today, we have this:



It seems that the locking bolt have pushed on the sleeve and dig itself in the clamp. The long term effect could be stretching the fork toward outside. Maybe it can damage the fork, but it's too early for now to tell. But, one of the problem is that my disc break calliper became too offset and I had to remove the front brake until I find out how to fix this issue.

Let me know if you need more info!

Enjoy!

LogRaam

[Nimbuzz]

Thanks log -- these pics are awesome and tell the whole story!!

You probably know all this but -- The reason the guys here are concerned about having a torque arm is because of the problems we've seen. If a wheel does spin and rip out all the wires which either damages or destroys the motor, when this happens the motor can also seize up and deposit the rider in undisclosed and dangerous places.

I think you're on the right track with something fitting in the slot of your 'C' flange -- that's where the machine screw could go after the torque arm is in the slot the whole works would be drilled through for a small but top grade screw. This would keep the slot from getting pried open which is its vulnerability. Your adapter looks beefy enough to me to accept a small hole like 3mm.

A

[Mark_A_W]

Ok, with the more detailed pics, and the locktite, it looks like it may be fine.

But it would be nice to drill a hole and fit a hardened pin clean through the non-wire side.


Only you can judge, as we are just guessing from pictures.