Replacement controller nightmare

Hi guys I have a Conhismotor ebike 48v 1000w (http://bit.ly/1UIkvjD) and bought a replacement controller (http://bit.ly/1UIoUTw) from same company when the carrier collapsed with 2 motor wires shorting.
Unfortunately the wheel now only judders or spins very briefly so fearing motor damage bought a tester as shown here on the site https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=20413.
The sequence of motor hall sensors test correctly 100.110,010,011,001,101 when the green and blue hall wires are reversed as they were originally.
The winding of motor test shows the 3 led's flashing in sequence from right to left (?).
The controller output test shows adjacent lights revolving clockwise when the colours are paired as they were originally. The video on the tester page however shows opposing led's flashing and can make this by swapping phase wires but the motor will not run with any of the 6 possible connections.
I wrote to Conhismotor and received reply "From your description, this is 99% because of hall sensor, maybe be burned or angel is not very correct, so the best way is change hall sensor". I assumed an 'angel' might be a sensor askew so opened the hub and found one of the sensors was a tiny bit out and not glued down, effected a repair with epoxy resin.
Unfortunately no change, settings on LCD panel are correct, the insides of the old and new controller look the same. I don't know what else to try and hope a contributor can advise.

I think what they mean by "angel" is the phase angle. Some controllers can switch between 60 deg and 120 deg, but I doubt that that's your problem.

Go through all 36 combinations of phase and hall sequence until you find one that works.

There's a technique of finding the correct combination with far fewer moves than 36, but I forget what it is. The search is your friend on that one.

It does sound like a problem with the hall signal (combination of sensor/wiring damage), although it's strange your tester seems to give it the OK.

what was wrong with the old controller? post up a picture of the damage you did to the phase wires when you wrecked. i suspect the phase wires are still shorted to the hall sensor wires from the accident but need to know why you replaced the original controller. is it still around or did you throw it away already?

Here's one method.
https://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/Determining_the_Wiring_for_a_Brushless_Motor

"Motor wires shorted" as the cause of the original problem, so you need to test the phase wires with your tester before doing anything further.

Thank you for your suggestions, what happened was 2 phase wires from the original controller touched at the connectors and fried the FET's, part of the main board looks burnt and still have it.
The wires from connectors to hub look fine, have checked with multimeter and found no shorts between the 5 hall wires or between the 5 hall wires and 3 phase wires.
Will try the 36 connections tomorrow (thank you for link) but do not hold out much hope as the hall sequence tests correctly as per tester instructions and original wiring connections. Out of interest found this explanatory diagram on page 18 at http://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva642/slva642.pdf
The phase wire output seems incorrect as the tester shows 'adjacent' led's revolving and not 'opposing' led's when the wire colours are coordinated to the tester. By swapping colours i can make opposing led's but none of the 6 combinations will make the motor run.
Will update tomorrow, cheers

the hall sensor wires short to the phase wire inside the axle. did you replace the output mosfets on this replacement controller?

i suspect there is a short where the new mosfets were soldered into the new controller.

Have not tampered with new replacement controller but have had a look inside, no sign of bad soldering and the wiring/ circuit board looks identical to original, a mystery, thank you.

Have tried all 36 connections but unfortunately no luck. 3 connections did make the motor spin briefly and by opening and closing the throttle it would keep spinning but the motor sounded coggy.
The tester is showing the motor should work. The tester is also showing the controller should work (apart from an incorrect output led sequence).
Seems i will have to buy another controller and/or motor and any suggestions welcome, eg maybe a sensorless controller or one with a learning mode ??

Carried out one last test and might have found the problem if not the cure, used multimeter to test actual voltage from hall sensors in connector.
2 measured 0v-5v off/on but one measured 2.9v-5v off/on ??

If you did that test with the controller disconnected, then you found a bad hall sensor. If you did the test with the halls still connected to the controller, the problem could be in the controller, so you'd need to isolate them form the controller, provide a power source to the hall and test them agai. If th problem is still there, you know it's a bad sensor. If not, you know the problem is in the controller.

Thank you for advice, yes still appears to be a faulty sensor and have ordered some SS41 latched bipolars from a UK supplier, hope these are correct type for a conhismotor.
Moral of story, do not entirely trust the tester as led's switch off below a certain voltage.
If it doesn't work I'll be back...

It still doesn't work so unfortunately I'm back...
Voltages measured from hall sensor connector now change from 0.02v to 5.02v in all 3 sensors which is correct afaik.
Have sent another email to conhismotor and will update soon...

Did you try all the combinations after you fixed the hall sensor?

If all 3 motor sensors are switching, try this info:

https://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/Determining_the_Wiring_for_a_Brushless_Motor