Agreed. I presented it only as an idea for frame builds. Any ideas?999zip999 wrote:That pedago is a piece of junk I saw it 2 yrs. ago. Junk. Not well though out.
My first thought was the Doctorbass torque arms, complete with a derailleur hanger, but after popping over to the sale thread it looks like he's having trouble producing them now (his machine shop declined to do them anymore.) https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... &start=550. Maybe see if he or somebody has an unused set left over? I have an old set (solid, no lighten-ing holes) welded to a junk rear end I could cut off & clean up. If you're interested, shoot me a PM.tomjasz wrote: Are there any custom rear dropouts being made that could be used?
At the top of the list!icecube57 wrote:Have routing or compartments for cable and connectors on/in frame.
Any suggestions on how we proceed? Is there something on the market? Is there a drop out someone has used and created a clamping dropout for, avoiding reinventing someones already good work?icecube57 wrote:Extreme clamping drop out .. Machine adapter spacer for 135 and 150mm motors.
Never thought of that! I have second CA3 ready to go.icecube57 wrote:Built in cycle analyst mount or recess in frame..
I'll look at Grin instructions for that location. But will definitely make sure that's done.icecube57 wrote:Add hole for torque sensing bottom bracket
icecube57 wrote:Frame needs to easily accomodate up to 60t chain ring.
icecube57 wrote:Make sure you use recent derauiler hangers to get better quality components..
icecube57 wrote:203mm rear disc brake mounts spacing and also to allow thicker hydro calipers.
Got your sketch and will photo my frames and layout the measurements with MacDraft.Samd wrote:I would start by drawing the basic points that are critical to you:
Headtube location and angle
Wheel base/length for handling at a certain speed.
Then once you have these right on paper, sit down and join those points up with any shape/material you like. Any number of variations.
Careful using CF as a contraction - I thought you meant carbon fibre!
This is resurrected as the shop is working on a custom fork. And the project now has a pair of MAC motors. No more mid drives except for wifes park path bike (bbs01).dogman dan wrote: ↑Nov 07, 2015 10:11 amDefinitely agree, the length of a normal 26" beach cruiser is a good goal. Then it will fit on normal bike racks, including the bus ones.
6" longer frame than usual for a 20" bike should do er. 26" -20" Once all other stuff to fit your body is sorted out, add 6" to the rear stays. Or less, if the front is longer than usual to fit you.
Your thread has spurred renewed intrest in my winter project, which will be very similar in design goals. Mine might be a bit longer, but not longer than my current long cruiser. I want essentially the same thing, but the rear wheel will be 20" and the frame designed to hold a battery nice.
Have you seen that bike frame designed to hold a laptop bag in the center? I'm thinking of something very similar, but you'd drop a square 18650 battery pack in the slot. And then, still at least 6" longer behind the seat for rider comfort and cargo.
It will look a bit step through when not carrying a big battery. Will be a lower than normal top bar when carrying a smaller battery. It will look a lot like a mixte, but the side bars wider to fit a 4.5" wide battery.