Controller/Display question (KT-LCD3) 1000w (more speed)

Hi guys i've been lurking for a while but i've finally found a problem i cant fix with searches.

So, i've got a 1000w leaf style motor from this kit (the whole kit actually)
http://dillengerelectricbikes.com.au/electric-bike-kits/off-road/off-road-electric-bike-kit-samsung-power-by-dillenger.html

It was my first e-bike and it was a great starting point, i'm researching and building another one now myself not from a kit now i have a taste for it, but i have a question with this one.

So, blew the halls (crashed and shorted hub wires, but i've resoldered the wires and replaced them and its all good now, while i was repairing that i did the shunt-mod to the controller which has given me a bit more tourque and it holds speed much smoother coming up hills.

BUT, the thing is,

When i freewheel the bike and hold the throttle it spins up to 50kph (almost exactly) and then the watts drop down to just enough to maintain that exact speed.
and when i ride it it does the same, so its definitely being limited by something.

if i go into the settings on the KT-LCD3, i can set the speed to anything lower than 50 and it behaves in an identical way (drops the watts off as it approaches, then only provides a maintenance amount)

but even if i set the speed in the display options (http://www.trikefactory.de/download/KT-LCD3.pdf) to its maximum 72kph it does the exact same limiting at 50kph

Ive seen videos of them spinning a similar setup to 70(ish) kph or the equivalent miles ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIcF51FM0Gw ) and i've also seen a member of ES having a similar issue (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=68460)

So i have tried setting the parameters in many many different combinations and can only manage to get it to freewheel slower than 50kph, but never higher, as it approaches that speed it drops the wattage to the motor whether freewheeling or on the road.

So the question is.

has anyone had any experience with these or have an idea as to why i can't use the throttle to continue applying power to the motor until the limit of the battery/controller? it feels like it has a lot more potential but is being specifically limited at 50.


Thanks for any help you guys can provide, hopefully ill be around for a while!

Hmm...

Just to confirm that it's not a physical limitation, you can try setting the wheel diameter to a smaller value. If it continues to limit to 50kph, then it's definitely a software limitation.

Aside from that, I'd just a suggest checking your speed sensor (could that have been moved in the crash?), and confirming that P2 is set to 1.

Thanks for the speedy reply!

When I set it to 16in the max speed drops to 36kph

And when p2 is 1 no speed displays at all

Even from when I first had the bike it's been exactly 50kph unloaded so the crash didn't change anything it's running as well as it ever has now.

So maybe that's the limit of this setup?
I am sure a 1000w motor would freewheel faster than 50kph at 48v though and I can see it drawing only 14 watts at that speed once it reaches it freewheeling and about 200-300depending on wind/slope when riding, shouldn't I be able to feed it 1000w untill wind resistance limits me?

The controller is branded Dillinger but I'm sure it's just their sticker, it's 48v 11A nom -22-A max

It sounds like you are not using a speed sensor to display speed. In theory, this shouldn't be a problem, because you have a direct drive motor. But because it's cheap an easy, I suggest adding a speed sensor, and setting P2 to 1, as a potential solution.

OK cool thanks for that!

yeah its definitely pulling the speed directly from the hub,

i think its a controller limitation more than the programming, ill play around with my options but my battery is only 30A and controller 22A max (explains the 1000W kit)

I figure i can thicken the traces a bit and add a bit more metal to the shunt and bring the controller up to closer to 30 to match the battery, is that correct?

Ok so i've spent a few hours on the controller and beefed all the traces right up with copper wire and solder along the entire length, and i've added some more solder to the shunt, it does feel much nicer to ride now.

The caps are rated at 60V and 52V and the FETS are 60NF06, i'm not sure about the resistor


If i was to go the next level and upgrade the components on the board what would i need to do, what components do you recommend, to get this up from 20A to about 30-40?


what is the thing next to the mosfets that looks the same bit different (rectifier?)
there are 3 with square corners, and 6 with cropped corners, if i was to replace the MOSFETS with IRFB3006 for more current would i replace all 9 of them?

Just for your consideration, I'm using a relatively inexpensive S12S controller, which delivers about 27 amps without modification. (I've actually had two of them, and they've performed nearly identically.)

I've got lots of data in this thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=58335

thanks for that, great thread


my reason for beefing up this controller rather than replacing is it has everything already integrated into the kit, OEM plugs and LCD etc so i would rather get this performing as highly as possible than fully re install a new controller for this bike

it has a built in watt meter but since i did the shunt mod, its now reading VERY low

i would like to install one inline between controller and battery, which one did you use'? i have just ordered the turnigy 180A one