Removed a couple links from the rear wheel chain to let the derailer tension it better, so that fixed the problem of it coming off the drive sprocket on bumps. Still cant shift gears, so its stuck in second, as the chainline is too short to allow proper flex, so it comes off the slack side of the drive sprocket as the derailer moves to shift to the next gear on the wheels cluster, whether I shift down to first ot up to third.
Is pedalable in the gear it has now, by either Raine or me, so no problem at the moment, though itd be nice to be able to shift it down one at least.
Unfortunatley my chaintool (Sunlite something or other, was a pretty nice one thats worked great for years) mustve gotten some tiny bit of grit or something in the threads, because it suddenly jammed up while trying to force the pin out of the first link, and could not be turned at all,forward or reverse. I had to hold one of its hex-shaped surfaces with a box wrench while using the closed end of another as a lever on its T-handle, to force it to turn far enough back to get the partly-sprung link out of it. I couldnt get it any further than that; its toast.
Since I was stuck with the link partly undone, and not really wanting to have to hammer it back in (have done that before for a roadside repair) I spent a couple of hours and built a sort of chaintool out of some other threaded bits I had laying around, a broken drill bit, and the remnants of a previous broken chaintool, and it worked well enough to finish getting the pin out of that link, and out of the one at the ohter end of the seciton to remove, and then fix the chain back together (as I dont have any master links right now).
Then I fixed up a tensioner for the long chain that runs from the front to the transfer axles input sprocket, by putting an old derailer around both top and bottom of the chain run. Its not the most efficient way to do it, but it works, until I think of something better. I used an old axle and its nuts and locknuts to mount the derailer to the keel, and hold it out over where the chain is (a few inches to the right of the keel).
Then, since I dont have any good pads for the old center pull cantilever smooth post brakes, I changed them out for Vbrakes (couple of the old Tektro arms from the stuff Oatnet sent a few years back), and used the old Koolstop pads off CrazyBike2. Theyre worn but still work for now, much much better than the old rocks I had on the centerpulls. Raine has new pads for them on order to replace them, along with some waterproof LED strips for downlighting and taillights/etc in the rear.
I rode it around the yard a few times, and had no problems, even pushing it backwards, so I called it ready to ride, and Raine took it out for a spin around the neighborhood. I followed on my trike, in case anything broke (nothing did) or needed adjusting (a few things did, mostly brakes and mirrors)
He had a lot of fun with it, enough to go back out a bit later for more.
Later I guesstimated the spoke length needed for a 1-cross 26 inch wheel using hte Ezee hubmotor, as around 190-ish mm, then looked thru various wheels saved for parts to find the closest ones to that. These two old BMX wheels were very close so I disassembled the bent up one for all the spokes that were still usable, then pulled more from teh other wheel as needed.
They turned out to be perfect, tensioned up with the spoke ends just about level with the slot in the nipples. Started out round enough and just had to be trued side to side, which is within a couple mm as of now.
Will work on it more some other time, then put a tube and tire on it, and swap it out for the left rear wheel, so itlll then be a 2WD trike, both for the extra startup power, smoother startup (cuz the Fusin is crap for smoothness since it has to determine rotation direction every time you reapply throttle from zero, even if the wheel is moving) and for redundancy.
Not sure which controller will work best with it, but I have a couple little 6FETs to try, and a couple old Fusin controllers. If I have to I can take the little board that makes it sensorless out of the spare Fusin 1000w controller and use that.