KT-LCD3 speed sensor turns off when motor is not on...

rmanalan

1 mW
Joined
Jun 22, 2016
Messages
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I just recently installed an EBO Phantom kit from Electric Bike Outfitters http://www.electricbikeoutfitters.com/ebo-phantom.aspx. It's 350w geared hub motor+36v/10ah and comes with a KT-LCD3. One thing that's really annoying is that when in PAS mode and I'm not pedaling, the speed sensor goes back to 0mph. Is that typical of all custom electric bike setups?

Also, once in a while, after a 5-10 mile ride (on a full charge), the system just shuts off. I wondered if it's shutting off due to the minimum voltage setting on the LCD3, so I adjusted it to a lower voltage cut-off, but it still happens. This often happens when I'm at a stop light... hasn't happened while I'm pedaling yet.
 
Avitt said:
These symptoms indicate that you are either not using a speed sensor, or the sped sensor is not working correctly.

Not sure that's it. Upon further inspection, my kit uses a custom embedded controller setup from Kunteng http://www.szktdz.com/en/news_show.php?article_id=361. This controller doesn't seem to have a separate speed sensor input.... so it's probably just getting it from the motor.

Anyway, while I like the look of this embedded setup, I'm not fond of this controller.
 
If there is no speed sensor, then yes, the speed will be computed from motor speed. (This is why it shows 0 when you are coasting). Also, I believe that most of these KT controllers shut down when they get no speed sensor input for 5 or 10 minutes. If you can't add a speed sensor to your controller, then you may be able to work around by periodically making a manual input on the LCD3 (for example, change the PAS level every 5 minutes or so).
 
This happens when you use a geared hub-motor without a separate speed sensor. It's easy to fix. All you need is a wheel-speed sensor off an old cycle computer, or you can cut one off the cheapest cycle computers from Ebay that cost about $3.

All you need is the spoke magnet and the sensor. Mount them like in the cycle computer instructions, then join one wire to the white wire in the motor connector and the other to ground. If that doesn't work, connect the second wire to any 5v wire instead of ground.

If you have moulded connectors, open the controller and cut the white wire so that you can make a connection to it. The red wires that go to the throttle and PAS are 5v. If you look at the controller's pcb, all the 5v and all the thin ground wires come from the same place. There's often spare pads to solder wires to.
 
d8veh said:
This happens when you use a geared hub-motor without a separate speed sensor. It's easy to fix. All you need is a wheel-speed sensor off an old cycle computer, or you can cut one off the cheapest cycle computers from Ebay that cost about $3.

All you need is the spoke magnet and the sensor. Mount them like in the cycle computer instructions, then join one wire to the white wire in the motor connector and the other to ground. If that doesn't work, connect the second wire to any 5v wire instead of ground.

If you have moulded connectors, open the controller and cut the white wire so that you can make a connection to it. The red wires that go to the throttle and PAS are 5v. If you look at the controller's pcb, all the 5v and all the thin ground wires come from the same place. There's often spare pads to solder wires to.

Thanks @d8veh. I tried this out this morning, but it doesn't seem to work. Here's what I did:

5bdKnM5.jpg


Any other ideas?
 
Did you try connecting the second wire to ground instead of 5v?

Did you confirm that the speed sensor was switching when the magnet came past?
 
d8veh said:
Did you try connecting the second wire to ground instead of 5v?

Did you confirm that the speed sensor was switching when the magnet came past?

I didn't try connecting it to ground... I'll do that next. Yes, I did confirm that the speed sensor was switching.
 
Should the white wire from the motor continue to be connected to the controller? Right now I have both the white wire from the motor and the external speed sensor connected to the white wire on the controller.
 
rmanalan said:
Should the white wire from the motor continue to be connected to the controller? Right now I have both the white wire from the motor and the external speed sensor connected to the white wire on the controller.
No. Cut the white wire. Join the controller side to either side of the speed sensor and the other to any ground.
 
Hi, i check Today yours method, but dont work.From magnet sensor go 2 wires, black and red.My controler its KT 48 zwsm-fz02e and hi dont have output for Speed senzor.Motor have 8 wires, no White wire for Speed signal..I connect red and black wire over pas, but pas have 3 wire.Dont work in any combination
 
You have also to tell the controller that you are using a speed sensor:
This is achieved by setting the P2 parameter with how many pulses per revolution give your sensor (0 mean disabled, probably your current setting).
See here to know how to change the parameter.
 
Think a new thread is better, because it's an other problem than this one here.....

.........................

Hi there!

I know it's an old thread, but It seems that i have the same controller and display and drive but my controller is gone wild ! 😕

I tried to change the melted mosfet but didn't work either... 🤷‍♂️

So I wanna buy a new on, but don't know which one this it?

I see "kte-sh1-a" as a name and I can find the same bottle Controller like this one... http://www.szktdz.com/en/news_show.php?article_id=361

But there are different types! Maybe Someone can help me which is the right.

There is one with hall sensor, and two without sensor, one of them is fast the other slow commutated.

Can someone maybe explain the differences?

Or tell me exactly which controller this just is on the picture above!?

Thx a lot
Meier
 
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