AW kit from Amazon

AstroKat

100 W
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
131
Location
Los Angeles
Hi Everyone,

I'm new here and to eBikes in general. I got an AW front hub eBike kit from Amazon for my son's bike for Christmas and we just finished installing everything. It worked well at first but seems to have gone into some kind of hill-climb mode: there's a loud ratchet noise and the front wheel only freewheels forwards, not backwards. I've also read that this may be due to over-tightening the hub but I don't think we did, and it only started making the ratchet noise after riding it for about 3 miles. Another, perhaps related issue is that there is no documentation for the LCD panel (e.g. how to change it from Km to miles, or change the modes, etc.) There isn't even a brand name on the components or installation manual that I can Google.

Any tips (other than to send it back and buy something that costs ten times the price, LOL)?

Thanks,

Adrian
 
I just realized, it's probably the freewheel mechanism that would be needed with a rear wheel but this is a front wheel. I assume they use the same motor. Any idea how to switch it back to "front wheel mode"? I was able to find a manual online and none of the settings make any difference (although I was able to switch it from Km to miles).
 
Was it the small 250W motor like this one? or was the bigger ones?

The amazon ad suggests both are direct drive motors, which means no moving parts inside, but the picture of the smaller 250W motor sure looks like it could be a geared drive.

It doesn't matter. If it rattles and is a gearless motor, something came loose and back it should go for a replacement, If it rattles and is a geared motor, same thing. Back it should go.

The freewheel would be inside the 6 speed gear cogs if they sent you a rear motor by mistake.
 
Thanks for the reply. It's the even bigger 48v 1000w. I was unsure about the policy of posting links like that, but here it is: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01M66GNOM

It doesn't appear to be geared, however, on one side there is a protrusion from the hub with a series of holes that have nothing bolted on (see third pic down). I assume this is where the they attach the cassette for the rear wheel version. There must be a freehub ratchet inside.
 
If it's making a grinding type noise, check the phase wires connections and the hall connector at the controller. A loose hall or phase wires makes them sound like they're grinding something To test motor, disconnect the 3 phase wires and the motor should turn in both directions easily as long as you don't short the wires.
 
Without any wires connected it freely rotates forward, with a loud clicking noise. It will not rotate backwards.
 
A front wheel should not have any noise in either direction. It's a DD hub. No gears to hang. Sounds like time to check out the warranty.
 
AdrianB said:
It doesn't appear to be geared, however, on one side there is a protrusion from the hub with a series of holes that have nothing bolted on (see third pic down). I assume this is where the they attach the cassette for the rear wheel version.
Nope, that is where the rotor for a disk brake system can be bolted to the hub.
wesnewell's advice sounds very good ...
 
Look for a nicked wire at the hub. Check the plugs to the hub. Contacts might have backed out of the housing.

Your motor is trying to run on two of three phases, this is called stutter.

Big time resistance to rolling it either direction is a short. if this resistance remains after you unplug the motor wires, then you have a shorted wire. if it goes away, the controller is blown. Typical for the cheap ass kits to either have the controller last a year or more, or 5 min. I'm betting your controller blew.
 
Thanks everyone! I may try taking the hub apart to see what's going on inside. Right now I'm waiting for a response on Amazon's site from the seller, AW International - yesterday they asked if the battery was charged... :roll:

I get a lot of of the electronic stuff, from building RC planes with brushless motors and controllers. What I don't understand is the forward-only motion of the front wheel, even when it's not energized. I didn't think there were any moving parts inside and as it's such a perfect ratchet, I thought it must have been a feature. Maybe one of the magnets came loose and is acting like a ratchet?
 
Could be a lose magnet, but opening it up would probably void the warranty.
 
There aren't any warranty seals or anything, so curiosity may get the better of me... :twisted:

Amazon is pretty good about taking stuff back. However, I'm not sure what the best thing to do is, going forward. The entire kit was $239 (I know - get what you pay for), however, a new ebike or even a kit from a big brand name is totally out of the question, price-wise.

Some background:

My now teenage son has wanted an ebike for years, ever since he first saw one, and it was dismissed as an expensive luxury.

We live two blocks from the beach and a bike path that goes all the way from Pacific Palisades to Redondo. The only catch is that, at the end of a long ride, there's a steep incline back up the bluffs into town. So the bikes gather dust in the garage...

Recently I read an article about the health benefits of ebikes, which seems counter-intuitive but it changed my thinking. I did what research I could online and even went to a local bike expo, although all the vendors were selling complete bikes, no kits. Then I saw this AW kit on Amazon.
 
Thinking that an ebike aids physical fitness or health will fail due to the very same issues in the reasoning that a regular bike's tech does the same, over a standard healthy diet and non-supplimented excercise, don't you think?

The entire kit was $239 (I know - get what you pay for)

Rest assured many, many people with some basic experience have gotten quite alot out of these plain jane entry level kits. I was surprised with the level of quality in mine, including the english instructions including color pictures. Overall, I think an electric powered cycle is far simpler to operate and maintain than an ice version, but you still have to understand some basic electric, electronic, and mechanical principles.

Anyway, welcome, and I'm sorry you're having an issue. If you spend some time here using advanced and google searches, I guarantee you'll learn alot even if your current problem isn't directly addressed or fixed.
On that issue, it could be 1/2 dozen things - some simple and some not. I'd also suggest researching and investigating up to but not past the limitations of warranty, so even if you warranty the hub you come away with added experience. I'm very curious of how simple or how rare the issue may be. Perhaps the loose magnet, however unlikely that may be for a new hub. Even simpler may be a bearing or even a brakes issue, though also rather unlikely.
 
Here's the article I read that triggered me to look into ebikes: http://www.latimes.com/health/la-he-e-bikes-20160715-snap-story.html

I guess the thinking is that getting out on a bike with pedal assist is better than leaving the bike in the garage to gather dust... ;)
 
Have him ship you a new motor. You're probably right that something fell out and is ratcheting along the windings. Maybe it cut thru the enamel on the wires too. If I had a new motor in hand, then I might open the old one before sending it back, but there's always the risk I can't get the shell back on w/o scratching paint or whatever.

Never owned one of these inexpensive DD kits. I see them on ebay for $159 shipped. I might get one someday just to see how they ride. I can give it to my overweight brother-in-law if I don't like it.

Personally, for me riding an ebike has been good for weight loss.
 
I couldn't resist opening the hub to see what was wrong. A broken magnet is acting like a ratchet! See pic...
 

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Wow that's awesome it was easy- that's gotta be pretty rare, maybe sub 1%?
I guess the thinking is that getting out on a bike with pedal assist is better than leaving the bike in the garage to gather dust... ;)
Yep I won't disagree with that. Even without pedaling. I probably just hate myself for being lazier than when I was younger lol-

Reglue it, Doc it's cracked in half tho!
 
To glue or not to glue, that is the question. Which is Nobler...? ;)

Amazon will take it back. I already have the return label. But it's a LOT of work to uninstall everything, and repackage it and return it.

What kind of glue? I have pretty much everything here, including different kinds of epoxy for our rocketry projects...
 
One consideration; the last time I looked, YESCOM (accesseries on ebay) had kits for $150-$175. I have one and can't believe how good it is. There are many others on ES that have ridden these kits for 10,000+ miles. So, you could save money and get a better kit (superior to one which has been re-glued IMO).
 
Contact the seller and include that photo and tell him you just want to exchange the wheel and motor for a new one. He should be happy to do that. Or try for a complete refund and then buy a similar kit off ebay for a lot less money. If you try and fix it, use high temp epoxy, but I wouldn't mess with it being in warranty.
 
Oh my,,, that is one rare defect man. I never would have guessed it was really that. Usually you have to really cook a motor with overvoltage to detach a magnet.

I did not really believe it when you described the problem, with a DD motor. So I did not give you credit, and figured you had something else rubbing when you turned the motor the opposite way. I get too used to really poor observation from guys with a troubleshoot. And even worse descriptions.

Get them to send a new motor for sure. Then keep the old one, and fix easily with some PC7 or JB weld. Slow set epoxy will go high enough temp.
 
2old said:
One consideration; the last time I looked, YESCOM (accesseries on ebay) had kits for $150-$175. I have one and can't believe how good it is. There are many others on ES that have ridden these kits for 10,000+ miles. So, you could save money and get a better kit (superior to one which has been re-glued IMO).

Looks like they have the same brand (i.e. no brand) kits as the one I bought on Amazon, for around the same price point: https://www.yescomusa.com/products/26in-front-hub-electric-bicycle-motor-conversion-kit-48v-1000w
 
dogman dan said:
Oh my,,, that is one rare defect man. I never would have guessed it was really that. Usually you have to really cook a motor with overvoltage to detach a magnet.

Well, I must say, as a noob with a bizarre issue, you've all been great. Toto, I've a feeling we're not on the Internet anymore... :D

Seriously, I have been "online" since the 80's and this is the most welcoming group I think I have ever encountered.

I think I'll just send the whole thing back and start over, maybe with individual components. If it were for me, I'd tinker with it but it's for my teenager and he'd like it if it just worked right out of the box.
 
That's such a nice compliment to the forum!!

Here's a quick search of 'cracked magnet' from first posts only. About 700 posts, some right on topic.
https://www.google.com/search?sitesearch=endless-sphere.com&q=cracked%20magnet&gws_rd=ssl

repaired magnets dont work aparently, as when they become separate pieces, they have new polarity.
Personally I'd try to keep the old hub too and repair. It's not like the seller can resell, and why would they want to pay shipping anyway if it can be reasonably proven to be faulty with pics. Anyway, I was thinking along the same lines as the quote. Wouldn't the hub be better off with simply removing the 'new' magnet?
 
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