Pairing Q75 with LSW-675 NOT S06P

A..dam

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From BlueMySky Battery. Why?
I have the 201 rpm in a 20 inch wheel with S06P controller (plus LCD-1 S) which lose sync and thus power plus get a horrible squealing noise with high power at low speed. Just when I need torque to climb a hill! BIG problem. One solution to this when using a S06P controller, is to set P1 to 160 to get the correct synchronization. That solution is highly flawed as it reduces power to the motor by ~half and max speed from 21.5 km/h to only 15 or so.
So I wonder if using another controller (this time sine wave) LSW-675 Sine Wave with King Meter LCD Display Meter with Q75 would solve this problem.
Thanks for letting me know...
A..dam
 
A..dam said:
One solution to this when using a S06P controller, is to set P1 to 160 to get the correct synchronization.

BMSbattery's spec page says 16 magnets and a 13.4 reduction ratio. Wouldn't P1 be 214?

And as you already stated, it runs like crap at 160. Run up P1 and tune it by ear for max no load rpm. See how far that is from 214.
 
The 214 is a correct # based on the available information.
I have tried changing this number in increments of one in the range 204-224 and increments of 5 beyond this range.
The only way to reduce stalling and horrible squeal is to reduce power by inputting a value well below 214.

So my question remains: Is there somebody using Q75 with LSW-675? Hello? ;)
 
A..dam said:
From BlueMySky Battery. Why?
I have the 201 rpm in a 20 inch wheel with S06P controller (plus LCD-1 S) which lose sync and thus power plus get a horrible squealing noise with high power at low speed. Just when I need torque to climb a hill! BIG problem. One solution to this when using a S06P controller, is to set P1 to 160 to get the correct synchronization. That solution is highly flawed as it reduces power to the motor by ~half and max speed from 21.5 km/h to only 15 or so.
So I wonder if using another controller (this time sine wave) LSW-675 Sine Wave with King Meter LCD Display Meter with Q75 would solve this problem.
Thanks for letting me know...
A..dam
The short answer is,...yes, I believe so.
I know BMS B. says the SO6P will work sensorless, but it wouldn't be the first time they recommended a sensorless combo that didn't work. I seem to recall issues w/ the SO9P.
$85, plus freight, is a lot of money to see if the LSW-675 will work.
The Guy to ask is D8veh(Dave), but he hasn't been over here lately. I would suggest you post this @ pedelecsuk and he will respond. If he doesn't, PM him.
If it turns out that the Q75/SO6P doesn't work, I would give BMS B. an earfull and see what they will do for you(ask for credit. Persist and I think they will if you have to buy the LSW).
I have always had misgivinings about running these little, fast spinning motors sensorless. I just can't get my head around how they could make it work.
Come back here and let us know what you find out.
Good luck.

EDIT: I took a look at the elifebike site, they recommend this controller w/ the Q85(Also a sensorless motor):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-36V-250W-6MOSFET-ebike-Electric-Bicycle-Brushless-Motor-Controller-with-LED-/322385783474?var=&hash=item4b0fb0aab2:m:mgxcwDHTuIgK4sxrLPhfyrQ

I actually use their QQ controllers exclusively and have used that one specificly(Sensored w/ the Q100). Although square-waves, they are great controllers, smooth and quiet. The 6-FET above was too low powered for me and I now use the 9-FET:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-48V-350W-9MOSFET-ebike-Electric-Bicycle-Brushless-Motor-Controller-with-LED-/222373438918?var=&hash=item33c67d65c6:m:mbKLR3ZxoW6uyvaARkN1_xw

That's a 17 A version, but they have a new 14 A, 6-FET:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-48V-250W-14A-6FET-ebike-Electric-Bicycle-Brushless-Motor-Controller-with-LED-/222373438955?var=&hash=item33c67d65eb:m:mgxcwDHTuIgK4sxrLPhfyrQ

They come w/ the 810 meter which only has a 3-speed limiting feature(not torque imitaion), but it works well w/ PAS and 3 speeds is enough on a low-powered system.
And you can't beat the prices.
All this assumes you have a 36 V pack.
 
Hello,

I am using Q75 with LSW-675. Works great(,I dont know how it is with really slow speeds since I m never using my motor at slow speeds).
Check my thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=75991
 
Thanks Jonca!
Feedback from you, including German website comments was what I waiting for.
Will be ordering that LSW-675 controller, too bad that my existing LCD-S1 is not compatible with it.
Regarding my conversion: I also wanted an ultra-light setup, hence the Q75, especially that I am only 125 pounds.
And due to the extremely short wheelbase of a custom made (mostly) aluminum folder I do not want continuous speed of more than 20 km/h.
Hence my choice of 201 rpm motor.
Have one more question for you, what throttle and PAS do you have?
I got twist throttle and 10 poles PAS from BMS batt.
A..dam

P.S. After I change the controller, my existing one plus LCD will be free to a good [strike]home[/strike], err... bike.
 

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I have only PAS, 8 poles I think, from BMS Battery. am thinking to get throttle as well. Also for the reason to have some spare in case the PAS breaks.
 
WARNING: DO NOT USE S06P controller with Q75

Changed the S06P to LSW-675 and it works flawlessly with Q75.
BMS battery is making false claims that S06P is compatible with Q75!!!

Note about switching controllers.
1. Disconnected the sensors from S06P and measured voltages on connectors
2. Connected LSW-675 to battery and measured voltages on connectors
3. The diagram/picture of LSW-675 on BMS battery website is incorrect (buggers!) in two instances
a. speed sensor wire on a picture is 1. red (5V), 2. black (gnd), 3. blue (sig) WHILE the actual controller configuration is 1. blue (sig) 2. red (5V) 3. black (gnd)
b. PAS on a picture is 1. blue (sig) , 2. red (5V) , 3. yellow (gnd) WHILE the actual controller configuration is 1. red(5V) 2. blue (sig) 3. yellow (gnd)
4. The following changes had to be made:
a. replace order on a speed sensor wire to 1. red (5V) 2. blue (sig) 3. black (gnd)
The actual PAS configuration is correct so no need to change anything on that connector.

ALSO, on a LCD KM5S the PAS direction MUST be changed to reverse.

That is all folks, :)

A..dam
 
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