1000w E-bike issue. Controller switch off..

Hello.. I have A 1000w front wheel bike.. The bike has not been used over the winter cause I dont use it in the wet season. When I turn on the battery the led screen says low battery, even though the charger says its fully charged.. The bike Can run but the controller switches off when the bike gets max power..
I thought i was A battery issue cause the battery indikator on the bike only show half full, even when i should be fully charged.. So I have bought a brand new 48v13ah bottle battery.. But I still have the same problem..
Now i have changed the controller to a new one.. but still the same problem

Unfortunately I dont know the brand of the motor.. but it is 1000w48v

Hope someone Can help me

Regards from Chris

Does anyone have experience with this Conversation kit?

Is the battery you bought the same battery that came with the kit? If you bought a battery that is too high or low voltage, it is likely that the controller will not work because of that. What was the nominal voltage of the battery that originally came with the kit?

Tha original battery was 48v10ah, and the new one is 48v13ah..
But the controller should be able to take 13ah?

Chris - You may have wondered why so few responses. I don't know, but just from general experience I will offer some suggestions.

Take a look at your first post. A big problem is that you provide virtually no useful information whatsoever. Your kit has a make, and a model. Most of them are big, round, and black, like your picture shows. My personal crystall ball is in the shop this week. It is nice to know that your batterI Fange is very low, but, just for giggles, could you perhaps mention how FAR, in miles or kilometers, at what speed, also expressed in standardized units of measurement, you get on your old battery NOW, and also give the same information for how far at what speed, it used to go.

Also, have you recently suffered a stroke or severe head injury? If not, then, if you chose and assembled your kit with the same degree of precision, care, and attention to detail with which you typed that post, I would suggest that you just park the bike and either walk, or take the bus.

If that really is the best you can do, then fine, and good luck to you. However, if it is within your skillset, fix the post so it is at least basically readable and include significantly more detailed information, and you will get some useful answers.

Does the LED display on the handlebars light up when you switch it on?

Yes it does.. but it does only indicate half charged..

Here you Can see the controller..
Sorry but I dont have much experience with E-bikes.

73nosleN - What is your problem?

He can't help it.. he got possessed by the evil dead ghost of nelson37.

Its def frustrating when you're trying to get into ebikes for whatever reason and the parts aren't getting going, but it will be worth it to figure it out. There are so many things that could be the problem.

First off, do you have a digital voltmeter yet? You're going to want one. It doesn't have to be expensive.. but digital is important, don't get the needle display kind. Are you using the same charger to charge both batteries? If so, that could be the problem, which would be good as its easy to check. That what you need the meter for.... to check that the battery is actually fully charged when the charger cuts off. The several people that I've helped with bad chargers were all surprised it would just die with the lights green for no apparent reason, but they do sometimes.

If the batteries are showing that they're charged right, then it gets tougher. It could be something in your display got corroded over the wet season so that the part that senses the battery voltage is misreading, in a way you wouldn't see unless you open it up. Yours is the bummer style where you can't bypass the display easily as it incorporates the on off switch. Short of getting another display for testing, then you're getting into maybe hacking the wiring connections to the controller to hardwire the system on, bypassing the display, to where it will drive on throttle mode for run testing.

Maybe check the charger first... that's the most basic thing that has to be right before a system will work, and it would explain why the display is showing half full on two batteries. But if none of that works, and you're itching to get on the road, then maybe buy a cheap controller that doesn't need a display. It sucks to throw more money at a problem, but you have working batteries, and that motor should run forever. If you need reliable transport, there's a lot going for a simple no display no PAS type system. I've got at least 9000 miles on my generic ebay $60 controller.

Voltron - Thank you very much for your reply!
I borrowed a digital voltmeter, and it shows about 49V. The two batterys that I now have have seperate chargers.
I havent testet the voltage when bike runs though :?

That sounds really low... Is that on both batteries right after they come off the charger?

Low.. shouldnt it be about 48v ?

A full "48v" battery should read around 54V if it's 13s, and around 58v if it's 14s.

A "48v" battery that only reads 49v is getting towards emptier than fuller, especially if it's a 14s.


If neither battery is charging any further than 49v, you may have a problem with the charger or BMS of one or both batteries.

Yes...48v is the so called nominal voltage that represents roughly half charged... What does it say on your charger as an output voltage?

But if I set the battery to charge, and at the same time connects it to the bike - it seems like the motor has it's full effect, and the controller does not disconnect..

Yes, because your charger is powering the bike at the correct voltage.

Your battery is not fully charged.

You need to charge it fully for it to work correctly.

If it will not charge fully, something is wrong with the charger or the battery.

Since the charger connected to the battery connected to the bike makes the bike work, it is probably not the charger.

I'd recommend looking around at all the other battery / power troubleshooting threads, and following the various steps to test and troubleshoot your system, especially the battery.

The most likely problems are the BMS is not working, and preventing the pack from charging, or teh BMS *is* working and protecting against fire or other damage because the cells are not balanced, and one or more of them is either at HVC or LVC.