What 36/48v controller for ezee 200rpm '250w'

_g_

10 W
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Dec 14, 2008
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I've got a couple of ezee 200rpm motors on the way and I'm looking for controllers to match.

They are going on my trailer project and will be run together in parrallel, run off a single throttle.

Ideally a controller that can handle 36v or 48v (I've got a decent lot of 36v batteries, but the bike runs on 48v - so the idea is to power the trailer on 36v, however it'd be nice to have the option either to put one on the front of the bike for 2wd or if I end up with 48v charged but no 36v.

These are 250w versions for the UK, but I'm not sure if that means anything bar the sticker on them?

Was thinking maybe around a 25A controller? Hopefully won't need to use them a lot of the time and when I do it will be relatively light work - being 200rpm and that I may go the 20" BMX rim with 16" mx tyre route, will mean they should have plenty of low down go (it will be used in fields/mud/very short steep inclines so don't need speed too much.)

I don't want to spend too much (liking the look of some with bluetooth etc, but a good bit of cash), so was thinking maybe something like this ?- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152551950819
 
I'm changing the controller on an Ezee at the moment. All the controllers I tried made it run backward. The normal method of changing direction didn't work, so I tried a KU93 controller sensorless, which worked OK. I therefore bought one of these, which seems to work OK, but not fully tested yet. I should have confirmation tomorrow.

https://www.pandaebikes.com/shop/extras/controllers/36v-500w-ebike-controller-no-hall-control-normal-cable-type/

You need to bridge some wires on the connector if you want to run without a LCD. I'd get at least one LCD to do the controller's settings. the only problem I can see is that there's no connection for the wheel-speed sensor, so It must pick up or fabricate a speed signal from the phase wires, which means that the speed will go to zero when the motor's free-wheeling. On a long hill or riding without power will probably make the controller go to sleep.
 
That controller doesn't work with my Ezee motor. It's OK at low speed or high-speed no load, but above 10 mph, full power makes it lose sync. back to the drawing board. I can't understand why these motors are so difficult. Why do they want to go backwards with every controller?

Has anybody managed to use a non-Ezee controller with one of these?
 
Cheers for the update.

Backwards wouldn't be the end of the world to me as I haven't yet made brake mounts yet (and may not have them this year - the same trailer has done mostly fine without brakes for the last 9 years*) - possibly given the choice I'd have one running the other direction so that the brakes can both be either on the inside or outside.

I'm far from an expert on it all - but could it be that the hall sensor wires are setup differently to what others might expect?
(Presuming you might keep the hall sensors the same, but swap around the main motor wires.)

*It's used at Glastonbury - one time I slid sideways down a steep slope and came very close to hitting someone who ignored my shouting, but missed them by a few mm - but probably won't be over that side this year.
 
I quite like the look of these: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162510329537

But expensive.

The seller does say "There is 100% garantee that it will work with any brushless sensored motor."
 
Do you have a photo, or a link to one, for the 250W motor you are talking about?
 
Mine should be arriving tomorrow:

KJ2zoyW.jpg
 
OK, they look like 350W Ezee motors that run off a 36V 20A controller.

I managed to get a 26" wheel Ezee motor to run on an Ananda 36V 15A controller.

I'm also in the process of changing a controller on an Ezee Sprint right now. It had an error code of 12 blinks which means a faulty controller but there are no more Gen I controllers available. I'm trying a 6Fet Infineon controller and it seems to work OK in the work stand, with unloaded speed of 40kph max and 1.7A current draw. Will do a test ride with it today to confirm operation under load.

UPDATE: The 6 FET ecrazymen Infineon controller failed the road test on the Ezee motor. With hall sensors plugged in or unplugged it either growled or squealed until it got up to about 10kph and then it ran ok. No good...
 
d8veh said:
I'm changing the controller on an Ezee at the moment. All the controllers I tried made it run backward. The normal method of changing direction didn't work, .....


Funny thing, I replaced a clutch assembly in an Ezee motor with one I got from EM3EV for a MAC motor because they looked identical. Problem was when I powered it up I could hear the motor running but the wheel was not turning. When I opened it back up I found that the MAC clutch freewheels in the opposite direction to the Ezee clutch. I guess the MAC clutch could have been assembled incorrectly but I don't have another one to compare it with.
 
jateureka said:
OK, they look like 350W Ezee motors that run off a 36V 20A controller.
Cheers; As I understood the 250W (legal limit in the UK) is probably mostly just a sticker with '250w' written on it.

Do you have any further information about the above motors?
I'm not sure what they'll come with, but the information out there seems to be a bit sparse.
 
I went for the controller linked below with an offer of 10% less and got it.
Still probably double from China, but I can't wait and wanted the option for easy returns.

[youtube]BjRGeVMQNxc[/youtube]

I was warned I might need to swap the blue and yellow in each case on the motor to get it to work properly forwards.

As it was, to get it to work correctly I needed the Hall Sensors in the correct format (Same colour on each) and the motor wires in the following format:
Blue Motor -> Green Controller
Blue Green -> Yellow Controller
Yellow Motor -> Blue Controller

It seems to run smoothly on the bench at least.

From what I can tell; a lot of torque! As you might expect from a 200rpm motor.

Hopefully should do what I want it to :).
 
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