The Ideal Connectors?

safe

1 GW
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Dec 22, 2006
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I noticed that one of the other topics included discussions (on the side) about connectors, but I'd like to focus here specifically on them.

These are "Deans Connectors":

batteries_wholesale_30a.jpg


...and the "Tamiya Connectors":

battery_pack_plugs_103a.jpg


...and the "Anderson Powerpole":

powerpoles_75_lrg.jpg


For my project the "Deans Connector" seems the most durable and most affordable if I'm going to be able to handle high current like 75 Amps.

What kind of experiences have people had with each type?
 
Personally I like the "look and feel" of the "Tamiya Connectors" but apparently they are not rated for more that 15 Amps, so you really can't use them on a high powered machine.
 
Also, what gauge wire is best for 75 Amps at 48 Volts?

I'm guessing that 10 gauge would be adequate, but the lower the number the larger the wire and the less voltage wasted due to resistance. "The bigger the better" it would seem.


http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
 
I'm using the Andersons (30A size) for mine, which has currents under 10A average. Had problems with them at first, due to not crimping correctly with my cheapo crimper. The metal parts didn't snap into the plastic housings correctly, and so didn't make good contact when plugged together. After I figured it out, everything was fine. I like the fact that they snap together, making a block of (in my case) 6 conductors that can be plugged in all at once, with no chance of hooking it up wrong, once you get it right the first time.

I crimp the wires in, and also solder just to make sure.

I still use the small Tamiyas that came on the Batteryspace NiMH packs for charging, and sometimes have a little trouble plugging them in, but nothing bad. My RC airplane friend hates 'em, though; says they get loose (high resistance) and eventually fry. He likes Deans. For my charging (2A), Tamiyas work fine.

Of course, your current is about 10 times what mine is, so I guess you're in a different world with that high-powered monster. Thanks for posting the pictures of the bike, by the way - very interesting!
 
safe said:
Also, what gauge wire is best for 75 Amps at 48 Volts?

I'm guessing that 10 gauge would be adequate, but the lower the number the larger the wire and the less voltage wasted due to resistance. "The bigger the better" it would seem.


http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Well since that's about 3600 watts of power *possible*, but I imagine not the normal running power, you could get away with 14 gauge without too many problems due to resistance. The wire would get warm, but not go nuclear on you. Anything bigger (12, 10, etc) and as you said, the better it gets.
 
safe said:
I noticed that one of the other topics included discussions (on the side) about connectors, but I'd like to focus here specifically on them.

These are "Deans Connectors":



...and the "Tamiya Connectors":



...and the "Anderson Powerpole":



For my project the "Deans Connector" seems the most durable and most affordable if I'm going to be able to handle high current like 75 Amps.

What kind of experiences have people had with each type?

Are you looking for connectors that you can plug/unplug frequently or just connectors to plug in once and only unplug later for troubleshooting reasons, etc?
 
knightmb said:
Are you looking for connectors that you can plug/unplug frequently or just connectors to plug in once and only unplug later for troubleshooting reasons, etc?

I'm planning to have 120 "D" Cell NiMh Batteries ($600) and I'm going to use them on two separate bikes. One bike will be a 36V 750Watt motor which places the Amp Hours at 40Ah. The second bike will be a 48V 1200Watt motor with effectively 30Ah. So not only do I plan to unplug these things regularly for each recharge, but I'm also going to have to reconfigure depending on which bike I'm testing. (each "tube" will hold 10 cells and be a 12V pack, so there are 12 "tubes" which can be used as either 4/3 or 3/4)

The 1200 is going to have mind blowing speed (60 mph?), but not so great range.

The 750 will have literally hours of range and a top speed around 45 mph.
 
In that case, I would recommend the Tamiya Connectors, only because I've used them a lot and they seem to be durable for the constant plug/unplug use and as long as they offer the right size/gauge of plugs that you should be just fine. I can't speak for the others in the plug/unplug sense, mainly because I've always used them as a way to bridge to connections and never really had problems with either.
 
knightmb said:
In that case, I would recommend the Tamiya Connectors, only because I've used them a lot and they seem to be durable for the constant plug/unplug use and as long as they offer the right size/gauge of plugs that you should be just fine. I can't speak for the others in the plug/unplug sense, mainly because I've always used them as a way to bridge to connections and never really had problems with either.

Think of the load on the system though. If the Tamiya Connectors are designed to hold 15 Amps reliably what can I expect at 75 Amps when I'm at peak load with the 1200 Watt motor?

Seems to me that the Deans Connector is a better option. The price is low and they physically look to be thicker metal so they aren't going to melt or short out easily. I have never used them, but have read of electric motorcycle people using them. They are supposed to be able to handle 80 Amps and above. I was just hoping to find someone here who had used them and could comment on them personally.
 
I found this at a hobby shop as well. Claims that the resistance of the connection is lower than a piece of 13 gauge copper wire. 7 bucks a pair so kind of expensive especially compared to powerpoles. Have you looked at the 75 amp powerpole connectors.. Only 5 bucks.
 

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The Deans Connectors run as low as $2.25 a pair.

http://www.batterieswholesale.com/battery_plugs_connectors.htm
 
I may buy a couple and try them. I saw one site where it talked about them handling lots and lots of amps.

Be careful Safe, that site you referenced is selling fakes if you read the fine print. Make sure someone has given these particular knock offs a good review if your going to buy them. I have seen real Deans sell for about 3.75 per pair which is still not to bad.

PS make sure you order the DEANS ULTRA connectors. They are the ones that carry the amp load. Good luck on your project.
 
How about $2.40? (and they even show the package)

http://www.hobbieguyrc.com/shop/cart.php?target=product&product_id=19515&category_id=959

WSD1300.jpg
 
I've used astroflight zero-loss on high current r/c applications as Tamiya type's melted.
 
Matt from old V was keen for wire nuts.
For connections which don't need daily un-doing, I really prefer that idea, or



These inexpensive grub screw "euro style" wire joiners are excellent.
Why? The clamping pressure does not depend on spring action.
The screws mash the wire with many hundreds of pounds pressure,
and each time the screws are reset, the wiping action removes any oxide.

For these connectors, the best practice is as follows:

-Tin the wire ends
-Grease the screws and the wire ends lightly with any sort of synthetic or silicone or regular grease; whatever will not -tarnish- the wire.
For this reason, I most prefer silicone grease because it is inert,
without any additives that might possibly make oxide films in time.
"Dielectric" tune-up grease is fine. ALL greases are dielectric, really.
That's the nature of such things, unless they are loaded with graphite
or silver paste.

-Screw firmly enough. Later (soon),
retighten, because the wire will mash down,
and you restore the pressure this way.

-Eventually, after a few retightenings over time,
the connection remains TIGHT,
and will not require this 'break in' procedure upon future reconnections.

TIN the wire ends, please, for best service.
BTW, Radio Shack's little 20 buck butane soldering torch is great for even big-gauge stranded wire.

I like these connectors for their cheapness and current capacity,
and for the several sizes available; they just aren't so convenient as push-connectors.
However, for high current work, they are trustworthy indefinitely.

---
sidebar tip:

-If for some reason the white color nylon is objectionable,
Rit fabric dye, a week's soaking in strong dye, will put saturated color through-and-through any nylon plastic.
Of course, remove the metal ferrule and screws from the item, because the dye contains salt as its mordant.

After the dying, soak the plastic in clear water for a few days to let the excess color (and salt) bleed out.

The result: Jet black, brillant blue, red, or any color you like for your nylon parts of any nature---
bushings or bolts--all those things which are available in nylon plastic. It dyes because nylon is hygroscopic.

 
I like those Euro barrier terminals too. Cheap, and I can get them at Radio Shack. Never had one burn up yet. They do tend to get rusty if exposed to water. Good old ring terminals and bolts are great too.
Here's one in my Vego that joins the motor to the controller.
 

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I use a combination of Dean Utra's and Eflite EC3's.

Elite EC's:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLAEC301

I like Dean's Ultra's a lot, but they are hard to disconnect (which is a good thing, but can be annoying when you do it a lot). So for connectors that I don't change often, I use Dean's - but on my E-bike I switched to EC3's because they connect and disconnect easier (but not too easily). My peak discharge rate is ~22A (I have 25A in-line fuses and they've never tripped).

 

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The best connector is to solder the wires together, on higher current bikes I solder every connection that won't need road side access and the benefit is that reliability goes way up losses and excess heat go way down.
Every breakdown I have had with an ebike has with only one exception been due to connector failure.
 
Since my RC racing and RC Flying days I have always run Sermo/Anderson connectors. They are rated at 35ah but I have gone a lot higher with no problems unlike the Tamiya connectors. The Tamiya connectors comes stock on RC Car batteries and they have melted on me too often. If you are going to have 75a burst then I would recommend the Anderson's. They even have 50a connectors the same size as the 35a ones. I get all my Anderson connectors on Ebay either from seller Hamstop or RCboyz. A pack of 25sets cost me about $20 shipped. Thats a great price when you think about some places that sell a set for $3.

http://stores.ebay.com/HamStop-com_Power-Panels-PowerPoles_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ6QQftidZ2QQtZkm
[/b]
 
I"m also a fan of the Anderson PP's..

I have equipped just about everything in my garage and computer room with andersons..

- No exposed terminals... the metal is all inside the plastic housing, less chances of shorts from exposed terminals.

- No Male/Female problems when swaping things around..

I have all my chargers.. SLA - Nimh - Nicad .. and pigtails made to join packs in series/ paralell etc.. i never have to cut and re-tip wire ends.

Just got a big box of every color possible from Rosspar in canada.. good service.. everything in stock.
 
Buzz/ypedal
Glad to see you made it over here. I know you were one of the first to get everyone into these hub motors on the older V board, right? how come you didn't keep your same name as in the older V board (buzz)?

Ric
 
Why the name change.. ? .. well that's kind of a long story :D

Since i'm having so much fun with these ebikes.. i figured why not try and get more people involved with it.. so i'm building a website.. and have ordered 40 + motors directly from Crystalyte.

I ordered 2 of every motor they make from 404 to 4013.. and 5302 to 5305. :shock: . and a pile of Dual-speed motors to boot ! :p

Since my site's url is http://www.ypedal.com i figure i may as well start branding myself a bit :lol:

ALOT of work to do on the site.. it's just started.. but in time it will be full to the brim with info.. videos.. tests.. and all kinds of weird creations !

I need to get my hands on one of those BMC hubs.. and a Currie drive.. ( I have 2 currie motors already.. just need the rest of the kit)

Anyone here into human cloning?.. i need a few more spares.
 
That's terrific, yPedal-Buzzzed :) I know the first place I'll look for stuff when you're up on running! Find and sell a Puma-like hubmotor in a mag wheel and you'll be my hero...


Anyone here into human cloning?
Yes, but my process isn't terribly advanced, so I can only turn you into a sheep.
 
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