Yescom 36v 500w hub kit with 12s lipo no throttle response

Sidotian

10 W
Joined
Jun 24, 2017
Messages
85
Location
Buffalo New York
Hello all I ordered a yescomusa 36v 500w hub kit I have 2 6s lipos in series for 12s 16ah battery I wired everything up to correct color and connector. The bike powers on but I get no throttle response I tested the throttle to make sure it's not that I disconnected the break levers and still nothing I am now stuck not sure what to do next
 
Did you hook up the ignition wires, and do you have the red power button in the out position? I assume you battery is charged above 31V. You should really have ordered a 48V kit to run on 12s lipo. LVC on a 36V controller is way too low for 12s lipo.
 
I thought the red button was the power to the bike I don't see any wires in Manuel labeled ignition ... As for the lvc I have balance lead alarms battery is charged up to 50v I opened the controller the caps said 63v so I'm pretty sure it can handle the voltage
 
Well I just tryed jumping the positive wire labeled headlight power to the positive of the battery and still nothing with button in and out only difference is the LEDs are on constantly
 
Is this what you bought?
https://www.yescomusa.com/collections/sports-rec/products/brushless-electric-bicycle-engine-36v-500w-rear-wheel-hub-motor-kit
There should be a small manual that came with it to show you the connections.
 
Yes that's it IV tryed everything but still no power I know the controller is getting power because the throttle gets 5v and power every where else the throttle just won't respond I know everything is hooked up right I contacted yescom and they gave me attitude like it wasn't there fualt so right now I guess I'm at a loss because nothing is working read endless forms on it trying to trubleshoot this but I'm not getting anywhere
 
I was running too much voltage into my yescoma hubmotor when I first tried to test it.
The high voltage cutout was the fault.
Test and post the exact voltage from the freshly charged battery.
Also check all connections, unplug and look at them then plug them back in .
There is a red push button on the throttle. Push it in and carefully test the throttle.
I threw a wheelie inside the house when i first got mine to run. LOL.
Now I charge to 60 volt 60.5 is too much. 48 volt 1000 watt dual hubmotors.
I ran a dummy load to reduce the first battery charge. Then tried the throttle until the thing fired up.
I laughed at the comic book that passed for instructions. The only useful part is the orientation of the wire side of the front and rear motors.
 
Time for some pictures. Show us what you have and how it is set up. Make sure they are in focus.

:D
 
I am running a 16s 1p battery that can be charged to 67.2 volts through a standard 1000 watt 48 volt yescoma controller. 4.2 X 16 =67.2 . At any voltage over 60.5 the controller will protect itself by NOT working.
I undercharge my 30 ah leaf batteries . I get less runtime. I should buy a 60 volt sinewave controller .
Maybe just buy a 48 volt controller. 12 s 1p 4.2 X 12 = 50 volts. A 48 volt controller will work fine at 52 volts.

You are charging your 12s 1p battery to 4.05 volts per cell. I think too much for your High voltage cutoff on a 36 volt controller.
My best advice
Much safer to buy a new 48 volt controller.
 
I tryed to take pictures but it's giving me a hassle right now I have my battery draining with 2 90w standard​ light bulbs balance volt meter is saying 4.00v a cell as of right now what do you thing the cut off would be on my 36v controller ? I'm literally watching this battery it's draining sooooo slow lol( I don't trust lipos yet) lol
 
Sidotian said:
I tryed to take pictures but it's giving me a hassle right now

What is giving you the hassle?

:D
 
I know some 24V controllers have a HVC of ~30V, so if your controller has a HVC, I'd guess it to be ~42V, which is about the max charge for a 36V sla battery system. You should really get a 48V controller to run 12s lipo. It should have a LVC of about 42V.
 
wesnewell said:
I know some 24V controllers have a HVC of ~30V, so if your controller has a HVC, I'd guess it to be ~42V, which is about the max charge for a 36V sla battery system. You should really get a 48V controller to run 12s lipo. It should have a LVC of about 42V.

Could be his controller, could be his wiring, could be anything at this point. He is a nube after all.

I still say he needs to show us some good pictures so we can see what he is up to.

:D
 
It tells me to adjust the picture size I'd love to send you a picture thu email. But I'm convinced it's not a wiring issue at this point.... Ok so ordered​ a 36-72v bluetooth programmable brushless ebike controller form lunacycle hopefully that will solve my problems
 
Ok I figured out the photos had to resize, the break cut off is not hooked up other that that everything that came with the kit is there and is working I get voltage to the headlight out also the red and black thottle I also tested the throttle signal wire and got 0-4.8ish with thottle engaged
 

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HVC might be the problem. Meanwhile, have a good look again at all the plugs, looking for a pin backing out of the housing when you plug it in.

If not HVC, 95% of the time the problem is a loose wire somewhere. Hence Yes coms attitude. But broken controller right out of the box is not that uncommon. Another controller should work.

Would he have throttle power if the HVC cut in? I would think not, but I don't know.
 
OK, I don't have an original yescomusa throttle anymore so somebody please refresh my memory. Does the red button on the throttle cut the power when it is pressed in, or out?

:D
 
The red throttle button has to be out for power if you have it hooked up. Pressed in cuts power to the motor by providing a short on the wires. It's basically just an ignition switch. Leaving it disconnected will just does away with the cut-off ability. I'm still using the same one I got with my 1000W kit but don't use the leds or the cut-off switch running 100V.
 
wesnewell said:
The red throttle button has to be out for power if you have it hooked up. Pressed in cuts power to the motor by providing a short on the wires. It's basically just an ignition switch. Leaving it disconnected will just does away with the cut-off ability. I'm still using the same one I got with my 1000W kit but don't use the leds or the cut-off switch running 100V.

Thanks Wes. That is what I remembered. However the hall sensors in my original throttles died so I rebuilt them three times each before they started falling apart.

As for the OP, I see in the pictures what looks like the red button pushed in and the yellow and brown wires connected to the controller.

Is the red button on the throttle pushed in, or is it out?

:D
 
When the button is pushed in for me I get power to the controller IV tryed out to but the led don't light up and the controller has no power... I'm currently waiting for my new controller to arrive hopefully everything will go smoothly wish me luck:) I will get back to you when I get it wired up but untill then I'm still open to look for a solution thanks alot every one !!!
 
https://lunacycle.com/40-amp-36-72v-ebike-bluetooth-programmable-controller/

That's the controller I ordered .. from what I seen I should be able to limit the amps so it wouldn't​ fry my motor.
 
Sidotian said:
When the button is pushed in for me I get power to the controller IV tryed out to but the led don't light up and the controller has no power...

That is really weird. The red button should be out for your bike to get any throttle response. That is how it is built.

Sidotian said:
I'm currently waiting for my new controller to arrive hopefully everything will go smoothly wish me luck:) I will get back to you when I get it wired up but untill then I'm still open to look for a solution thanks alot every one !!!

I don't understand the need for a new controller. Although I do have a question. What was the maximum voltage you applied to the yescomusa controller?

:D
 
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