Considering.

Appbeza

10 mW
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
24
This is my bike: http://www.apollobikes.com/bikes13/id/63/cid/81/parent/0/t/bikes13

More info can be found in the media tab too.

Would the front of the bike, with two strong torque arms, take 1000W coming from a setup consisting of an eZee motor and 48V (especially at full charge) battery? I can't add one on the rear because I want an IGH there.

Unless, you could recommend a very reliable mid-drive, chainring, and IGH (including cog size) setup that could get me up to 50km/h, preferably with a 36V battery, that would be great :)

However, with the eZee setup, I see an upgrade pathway for the above if the "chainring, and IGH (including cog size)" parts are done right for a future mid-drive install.

Would love your thoughts.
 
With a good implementation of the torque arms, it could work-- but that's a particularly bad choice of fork for a hub motor, let alone a 1000W hub motor. Forces from the motor will wear out your fork bushings in a hurry, and the suspension won't move freely when the motor is driving.

Consider installing a rigid steel fork with rack and fender eyelets to anchor the torque arms.
 
Chalo said:
Consider installing a rigid steel fork with rack and fender eyelets to anchor the torque arms.

Is this too overkill?

https://em3ev.com/shop/dnm-usd-8-front-fork-black-latest-version-dual-disc/
 
It will screw up the geometry and handling of your bike, unless you shorten its travel to match the stock fork. And motor thrust will cause that fork to bind as well, though perhaps less if you shorten the travel and have more stanchion-slider overlap.

Front hub motors work best with rigid forks.
 
Chalo said:
It will screw up the geometry and handling of your bike, unless you shorten its travel to match the stock fork. And motor thrust will cause that fork to bind as well, though perhaps less if you shorten the travel and have more stanchion-slider overlap.

Front hub motors work best with rigid forks.

What about these "moto suspension forks"? Are they more suited to front hubs?

http://electricbikehub.co.nz/product/sprint-7l/ -> go to specs.
 
I've done similar front-wheel conversions on bikes like that with similar motors. There's something you have to pay attention to. That's the dimples in the drop-outs. I always deepen the drop-outs to recentralise the bigger axle. The important thing is that the first washer or nut lies flat and doesn't touch the edge of the dimple. You can use evcentric washers instead if you want as long as the axle is deep enough in the drop-outs.

You need a proper anchor for the torque arms. I fix the left side one to the lower caliper adapter screw. The other side is not so easy. Those jubilee clips can break, so be careful.

The weight of the motor doesn't have much effect on handling. The extra mass makes the suspension mre choppy, but you don't notice that on cheaper forks anyway. You get a bit of wheelspin when you start off and on the very steep hills, so your tyres don't last long.

At 48v, I wouldn't go over 20 amps.

A rear motor is a lot better all-round.
 
Its impossible to look at a picture of a suspension fork, and say yes it will work, or no.

In addition to the points stated above about the need for two c washers, deepening the notch, and two good torque arms, you may have additional, unsolvable problems.

1. the fork may simply be too narrow between the tubes to fit the motor. In general, if the fork dropouts are in the center of the tube, or the outside edge, a motor will not fit. If the dropouts are welded more to the inside edge of the tubes, then you will have 100 mm of space between the tubes, and most motors will fit.

2. If the motor fits fine, you may still have a problem with the action of the fork. The fork may, or may not bind when the motor is in use. so under power, many forks will bind up, and become effectively rigid when the motor is pulling. In general,, a really expensive fork won't bind. Or, a very cheap pogo stick fork with no oil will be so loose it won't bind. But my experience has been, most mid price forks will stick. So you have to learn to coast when you see a pothole, or other bump coming.

If the fork sticks, is it worth it? NO. Why not put a rear motor on that bike?

And BTW,, you can't put a motor on that EM3ev fork. its thru axle.
 
zackclark70 said:
cyclone 1680w bb mid drive not as silent as a hub motor but better in nearly every over way

Only for folks who can set up their geared drivetrains correctly and are willing to inspect and maintain them regularly. In my observation, that means not very many people should mess with powerful mid drives.
 
Chalo said:
zackclark70 said:
cyclone 1680w bb mid drive not as silent as a hub motor but better in nearly every over way

Only for folks who can set up their geared drivetrains correctly and are willing to inspect and maintain them regularly. In my observation, that means not very many people should mess with powerful mid drives.

unfortunately there is no perfect setup that a normal person can deal with bosh have done a good job but not many others have made a fool proof setup
 
Appbeza said:
Chalo said:
Consider installing a rigid steel fork with rack and fender eyelets to anchor the torque arms.

Is this too overkill?

https://em3ev.com/shop/dnm-usd-8-front-fork-black-latest-version-dual-disc/
Have you looked at the axle for that fork ?
 
LewTwo said:
Appbeza said:
Chalo said:
Consider installing a rigid steel fork with rack and fender eyelets to anchor the torque arms.

Is this too overkill?

https://em3ev.com/shop/dnm-usd-8-front-fork-black-latest-version-dual-disc/
Have you looked at the axle for that fork ?

Yes. A front hub motor could certainly fit in there with some sparkly magic :3
 
dogman dan said:
Why not put a rear motor on that bike?

Actually, it probably is the best thing to do. The IGH can wait. Would this bike handle a 1000W eZee motor at the rear, with good torque arms of course?

Edit: I meant 1400W for short time climbing up big hills. I could always avoid those, though...
 
Appbeza said:
LewTwo said:
Appbeza said:
Chalo said:
Consider installing a rigid steel fork with rack and fender eyelets to anchor the torque arms.

Is this too overkill?

https://em3ev.com/shop/dnm-usd-8-front-fork-black-latest-version-dual-disc/
Have you looked at the axle for that fork ?

Yes. A front hub motor could certainly fit in there with some sparkly magic :3
Axle Type: 20 mm ( 0.79 inch ) AL-7075 thru-axle design
I could be wrong but I think Grin Technologies are the only ones that have a "20mm thru-axle" hub motor.

http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/motors/grinhub-fst.html#
 
Didn't know that motor was out. But uhh,, why would a front motor on that fork still be a good Idea?

IGH would be one reason, but who cares about IGH when you put the thing in high gear and leave it there for years?

Putting a rear motor on that bike is the way to go. with good torque arms it will be fine.

Upgrade the fork on that bike anyways is not a horrible idea. But only if you have a ton of cash,, in which case, I'd be looking at sturdy full suspension bikes.
 
dogman dan said:
IGH would be one reason, but who cares about IGH when you put the thing in high gear and leave it there for years?
Battery dies, blow a fuse or other electrical failure. Happened to me last week (first time). Made the mistake of not charging the battery. I rode home is low gear which was a lot easier especially since I was dragging a trailer full of groceries. Always good to have a plan "B".

By the way, I note that Grin Tech also has a couple of IGH rear hub motors.
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/motors/igh-305.html
 
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