Q100H/Q100/Q100 CST for Road bike.

Ltc433

10 W
Joined
Jan 30, 2016
Messages
95
Hiya all,

I already have a 48V ebike so will be using that battery. Road Bike, 48V, 700C wheels, wants about 21 mph average speed.
I have been reading through the forums and there is a lot of info on the Q100 variants. So Q100 at 201/328 rpm, but Q100H at 260 appears to be the best. The problem for me is:

1. I have a 9 speed cassette road bike with carbon forks so want to use a rear hub. Is the Q100H is 7 spd freewheel only?
2. Should I get the Q100 cst instead? Freewheels seem to be pretty hard to get in 11-32/28 etc.
3. The CST require dishing the wheel when building, is that a serious issue or can by LBS do it?
4. 328 RPM for 700c is too much but 201 too little?
5. Whats the best controller and LCD as I may need to limit the amps? I think S-KU93 ?

Edit: Om BMS battery thjey have the ku63 but no compatible lcd displays apparently, which s series controller is best for 48v 17-18amp?
or should i go with the Q128C ...

Here is my parts list so far:

Q100H 206rpm
S-KU93 36V 48V 450W22A 9Mosfets Controller
PAS Sensor
Thumb throttle,
LCD display slcd12
Torue arms

Any advice/experience form others appreciated.

Thank you.

Edit rider = ~75-80KG
 
The 36v Q100C at 48v will give the right speed and power. The Q128C is a lovely motor. It's about 1kg heavier, but will be totally unstressed for what you want. You need to dish the wheel a bit with all motors. Dishing is easy. You just go round each side in turn, loosening one turn on one side and tightening on the other. Three or four rotations is normal. some truing and final adjustment is inevitable. If you mess up. the bike shop should be able to sort it.

The 260 rpm Q100H at 48v will most likely be too fast for its power.
 
"The 36v Q100C at 48v will give the right speed and power."
Yes I came to that conclusion as well. However apparently there is 30% power difference from the cassette hub and normal freewheel due to the reduced width of the hub?

"The "C" version has a stator that is 15 to 20 % narrower to make room for the cassette. Whether or not the C uses the higher quality magnets is unknown, but my side by side comparsions indicate the C out-puts 20 to 30% less power than a H. This corresponds, more or less, with BMS B.'s ratings.
One thing to keep in mind when considering the Q128, it requires at least 160 mm rotor and possibly a 200 mm one so the motor does not contact the caliper.
From <https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=79855> "

"The 260 rpm Q100H at 48v will most likely be too fast for its power."

I don't quite understand? You mean it will be too fast for it's windings ie RPM, or actual mph?

Also what controller should I buy? as I apparently need to lower the amps to 17-18? and perhaps need the LCD to do that as well? Sorry bit confused as I have been reading a lot.
 
I already have a 48V ebike so will be using that battery. Road Bike, 48V, 700C wheels, wants about 21 mph average speed.
I have been reading through the forums and there is a lot of info on the Q100 variants. So Q100 at 201/328 rpm, but Q100H at 260 appears to be the best.

First off, you should fill out your profile. If nothing else, it would give us an idea of the terrain where you will be riding. You have left out much personal info. Since the 2 variants of Q100 you are considering have narrow performance envelopes(nature of mini motor in 700 wheel), those "personables" should sway you one way or the other. That's why there is no "best" motor variant.

1. I have a 9 speed cassette road bike with carbon forks so want to use a rear hub. Is the Q100H is 7 spd freewheel only?
The Q100H is freewheel only. The DNP Enoch is available w/ 11T small gear in versions of 7-speed, 8-speed and 9-speed. W/ the Q100H on 20 Amps, you will likely only use 2 or 3 gears anyhow, but you should keep the number of freewheel speeds close to your bike's system. I have used an 8-speed w/ a 9-speed system and it worked well. Some people hate the DNP, but the last two I have used have been ok, as quiet and smooth as a quslity cassette. They are heavy though.

. The CST require dishing the wheel when building, is that a serious issue....

It can be. Not every bike is built on the same jig and there are variations. On my Rocky Mountain, the dish required was extreme and I never could make the "C" work. On my GT I-Drive, the dish was minimal and everything fell into place. My "gut" feeling is, on most bikes, it is usually not a problem.

"The "C" version has a stator that is 15 to 20 % narrower to make room for the cassette. Whether or not the C uses the higher quality magnets is unknown, but my side by side comparsions indicate the C out-puts 20 to 30% less power than a H.

You have been reading my posts. On paper, it looks like a 30% difference, but in the application, maybe somewhat less. I run a 17 AMP "soft start" controller on the C and a 20 Amper on the H, so that averages things out somewhat. maybe 20% is the real world.

"The 260 rpm Q100H at 48v will most likely be too fast for its power."

What Dave is refering to, is the amount of the powerband that is above the "no-load"(the real World top speed). When there are a lots motor rpms above the speed the motor can reach, the motor is said to be Current limited. When the powerband drops off at the no-load speed, it is said to be RPM limited, it just won't spin any faster. The motor that "drops off" at the "no-load" speed will be the better overall performer, but for a fit rider who can generate real power w/ his legs, there is an advantage to having the power-line extend flat past the no-load point. He can add his leg power to the reachable power band and add a couple of MPH. For me, both the 260 and the 328 on the same batt. and controller in a 26" whl. will top out @ 22 to 23 mph. The 260 is rpm limited and the 328 is power limited. I can't add any speed w/ my legs w/ the 260, but if I pedal like hell, I can add a couple of mph on the 328. But the price payed is the 328 is really lazy in the mid-range and at top speed, it wants the controller to supply max Amps, which can over heat the controller. Put the 328 in a big wheel, and those traits are excerbated. Here, I disagree w/ Dave a bit, as I think the 260H will work well in a 26" wheel for most folks. In a 700 whl, here the rider's abilities come into play as to how well it will work. Here you will see a theme, the big wheels push the Cutes to their limit, which makes the rider's abilities paramount. 328 in 700 is only for Super riders.
I have maybe a half a dozen Cute motors of various speed and configurations. Due to their low cost and ease in swapping motor cores, A rider who isn't sure could order a spare motor only of a different speed to try both.

Also what controller should I buy?

These days, Dave is recommending the "KT" sine waves from PSW Power;

http://www.pswpower.com/peng/pic.asp?ModID=PicS224&TypID=S220052

PSW Power is an off shoot of Elifebike. I use ELB square wave controllers and I like them a lot. They are smooth and quiet.
I have no idea if a guy could order the motor(s) and the controllers from PSW Power and ELB, to make it one order to consoldate shipping cost. It would be interesting to find out.

Bottom line, I would recommend the 201 "C" motor w/ the 17 A sine wave if you want to stay a little closer to the "bicycle experience" But, top speed will be limited to around 22 to 23 mph.
The 260H on 20 Amps would be better for those days when you feel lazy and don't care to pedal hard. It will climb hills better and the top speed would be 23 to 25 mph.
Good luck.
 
give us an idea of the terrain where you will be riding

Largely flat, no hills to deal with. I am a keen cyclist but I don't want to pedal flat out go gain mph.

The Q100H is freewheel only....maybe 20% is the real world.

That's what I thought. The cassette issue isn't a big problem now as I did some searching and freewheels are a lot more available now (rather than last year) so I can just buy one. Also I'll use the freewheel version and keep the 20% power difference.

Bottom line, I would recommend the 201 "C" motor w/ the 17 A sine wave if you want to stay a little closer to the "bicycle experience" But, top speed will be limited to around 22 to 23 mph.
The 260H on 20 Amps would be better for those days when you feel lazy and don't care to pedal hard. It will climb hills better and the top speed would be 23 to 25 mph.
Good luck.

That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks.

I have no idea if a guy could order the motor(s) and the controllers from PSW Power and ELB, to make it one order to consoldate shipping cost. It would be interesting to find out.

I am in the UK so ordering etc could be a problem. I was going to order the motor from green bike kit as they are the same as the BMS battery ones and I wanted it to match my chrome hubs. I had no idea ebike kits were so cheap as I only looked at this from a 1000w+ perspective. I'll check out PSpower .. when the website loads:)

Edit: can't find the Q100h rear freewheel version on pspower or elifebike. One thing, do I need to manually change the amperage via the LCD?? If I get the 20amp verison I don't have to right?

Also Is it worth buying a cycle analyst now? rather than a LCD. a cycle analyst seems to be the best display with information etc?
 
...I did some searching and freewheels are a lot more available now (rather than last year) so I can just buy one.
Yes, but only one has an 11T sm. gear, the DNP.
The Q100H from Greenbikekit is the old style and silver, where as the one from BMS B. is the new style and black. There are some things that make the new style perferable w/ the C motors, but the color may be the only difference w/ the H motors.
Can't comment on GBK's wheel builds, but the BMS B wheel will be loose. Doesn't really matter since you will have to dish a little, get the spoke wrench.
I only use one TA on my 201C, but you might want to use two on the H. Usually I only use 1/2 of the TA ASM and fab a sm. link.

100_0106.JPG

Since you will be on PAS most of time, this probably doesn't matter much, but I greatly perfer the left-hand, half-twist from BMS B. over the thumb. Since I never use the frt. chain ring shifter, I either remove it or push further inside on the bar and that is where I put the throttle.
Even if you have to order from two vendors, the Q100H/20 A sine wave combo sounds kool and it will be worth it.

Adjust the derailuer "up and under", close to the gears, to keep the chain from jumping on the DNP's shark tooth shaped teeth. Like this;

100_0066.JPG
 
<<<<<<Edit: can't find the Q100h rear freewheel version on pspower or elifebike. One thing, do I need to manually change the amperage via the LCD?? If I get the 20amp verison I don't have to right?

Also Is it worth buying a cycle analyst now? rather than a LCD. a cycle analyst seems to be the best display with information etc?>>>>>
If you get the 20 Amp from PSW Power, just run it as is.
It will need a display to work(you must pick one). More info than one needs, I.M.O.
 
You can buy freewheels with as many speeds as you want. the problem is that anything more than 7-speed will most likely be too wide and require a substantial dish, which is not good.

You don't want or need a Cycle Analyst with one of those controllers with LCD.
 
great!

There are some things that make the new style perferable w/ the C motors, but the color may be the only difference w/ the H motors

Any idea where I could find out if there are any differences? Does anyone know?

Even if you have to order from two vendors, the Q100H/20 A sine wave combo sounds kool and it will be worth it.

Definitely. I just want to make sure all the connectors etc fit and I have all the cables.

the problem is that anything more than 7-speed will most likely be too wide and require a substantial dish,

Yeah that's what I was afraid of. I have a 9 speed system at the moment and I use 7 speed in that. It's fine, I don't need 9.

You don't want or need a Cycle Analyst

I thought the cycle analyst was apparently the best lcd - analyser etc that people use, i thoguht it showed a lot more in depth information also how many watts you have left? or something like that? Is it not worth it?
 
The Cycle Analyst is not an option for you. The KT sine wave controller requires an SLCD display to function. Time for you to start studying the variants, what they do, etc., as that is the last remaining area where you need to make a selection that will effect your build.

I will go out on a limb and say the silver and blk H motors are the same. The differences w/ the C motors are all cassette related items, the off-set on the spline and how it is interfaces w/ the motor side cover. I like the look of the blk motors, but silver is often more stealthy.

Measure your drop-out width now. Just because a 7-speed Shimano cassette works ok w/ a Shimano 9-speed system, doesn't mean a 7-speed DNP FREEWHEEL will. I have used that combo and I could index it to work for 4 of the gears, the other 3 would skip. There is a big difference in chain/gear widths for the 7 vs 9(Read Sheldon Brown). As I recall, the H w/ a 8-speed DNP has a width of 136 m/m. NBD on my mountain bike alum. chain stays. I only had to spread the chain stay slightly by hand and install an extra washer between the free whl. and the chain stay so the 11T gear wouldn't rub.

The connectors- all the motor to controller/display connectors will be the same. Your Batt. to controller, don't know.
 
The LCD3 gives you all the information about your journey, like a normal cycle computer. Additionally, it shows battery voltage and the power being taken from the battery in real time. A Cycle Analyst has a lot of other functions that are unnecessary for what you want. The battery monitoring features are interesting, but you can get better from something like a Speedict Mercury that doesn't require a second LCD cluttering up your handlebars. I have three CAs, but I haven't found a use for any of them since I started using KT controllers.
 
The KT sine wave controller requires an SLCD display to function

ah I forgot that I don't need to manage the amps via the LCD. I'm going to go with the Q100H and I'll investigate the LCD's

I will go out on a limb and say the silver and blk H motors are the same.

I am going for stealth, hence the silver.

My drop out width is 130mm in the current hub. I also gota shimano 11-34 7 speed luckily but I'll try and find another one.

I have three CAs, but I haven't found a use for any of them since I started using KT controllers.

Ah that's really useful as I have been looking at a CA for about a year. I won't bother now. Think I 'll get a Speedict Mercury later to play with :)
 
Hi everyone, I am trying to put together a part list for a similar conversion. I would like to use the Q100C rear wheel 201 on my road bike with a KT controller, PAS, and LCD3. However, I'd also like to take advantage of the Em3ev 52V batteries. Are the KT controllers capable of handling 52v or do I need a different battery/controller combo? Thanks for all the info you all have gathered, I couldn't do this without you. I ride a BH neo cross currently but would like to get into the DIY scene.
 
SHIBBY said:
Hi everyone, I am trying to put together a part list for a similar conversion. I would like to use the Q100C rear wheel 201 on my road bike with a KT controller, PAS, and LCD3. However, I'd also like to take advantage of the Em3ev 52V batteries. Are the KT controllers capable of handling 52v or do I need a different battery/controller combo? Thanks for all the info you all have gathered, I couldn't do this without you. I ride a BH neo cross currently but would like to get into the DIY scene.
The highest you can set the LCV is 41.5v, which is 2.96v per cell. That should be OK. It's probably a good idea to connect your battery and fire everything up before you fully charge your battery, because these controllers/LCDs can get confused when they get things outside the expected range. The worst is 12S, where they can't figure out whether you have a 36v or 48v battery. You should be OK as long as the first connection voltage is unambiguous.
 
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