Please help, ebike was working and now it is cutting out

Mikebate1313

100 µW
Joined
Sep 10, 2017
Messages
7
Hi everyone, I had a question about my Gio pb710 I just purchased this used from somebody who didn't use the bike I went for a drive today and it was super slow like I mean i could walk faster than the speed it was going took it home looked at the controller to make sure everything was ok I disconnected it and then plugged it in again and now I am getting no power from the motor when I twist the throttle unless the brake lever is pulled it will sputter like it is trying to go and then stops on and off if I have the green speed button pressed in and I hold the throttle and press the brake and release it accelerates automatically, is this a controller issue or a motor issue I have worked on ebikes for a while and I have never came across this issue if somebody could give me some help with this it would be well appreciated, thank you
 
Without punctuation, I'm unsure if I'm reading your post correctly, but it sounds like you have a battery problem.

First thing I'd do is fully charge the batteries, then put a multimeter on them while doing the testing, and note down all of the readings, first at rest after charging, then under load, and then resting after test.

Posting a complete list of all the voltages you get in each of these tests will help us help you figure out where the problem is.

If it's SLA you'll need to check each individual battery. If it's lithium, you'll need to check each cell group. That way you can see if a particular cell or battery is dropping in voltage (sag) too much.


If the batteries are not the problem, then it's probably wiring. I'd start with the connectors and wiring you touched at the point between when it worked and when it didn't.
 
Battery's are brand new. And the connectors are all good If I wiggle them there is no difference everything is in place I have no clue what it is doing... I did notice that my plugs have red goop in them I'm not sure if that may cause an issue
 
As I said in my post it works only with the brake pressed and the throttle at full twist but the motor cuts out repeatedly.
 
If it only works while the brake is engaged, then something is wrong with either the wiring or the controller, because it should not work at all with the brake engaged.

Wiggling connectors not changing the problem does not mean that anything is good. It only means that they wiggle and that the problem doesn't change.

You'd have to continuity test the wiring to find out if it is ok. The wires can be broken inside the insulation at any point along any of the wires.

The connector pins themselves may not be crimped right, or they may be broken off at the back of the crimp to the wire, held on only by the insulation or perhaps a single strand of wire.

The connector pins might be spread apart so they aren't mating correctly or at all.

The connector pins might be bent aside or even pushed out of the connector shell, so that when you pull the connector apart they look like they're good, but if you push each pin from the front of the connector, the loose pin will push backwards.

The wires could even be broken off inside a device, no longer connected to the circuit board inside.



If it's the controller you'd have to replace it to verify.

If you have an identical but working replacement you can try troubleshooting it by comparing voltage readings inside it to a working one, but it is not usually worth doing, for most people.




Regarding the batteries:

Do the batteries work on another vehicle?

You still haven't given any details of the batteries, so I'll continue to guess at what might be the problem (since good answers require you to help us help you by answering our questions).

Brand new doesn't mean they have any charge on them or that they are good.

If they are SLA, they often sit on a shelf in a warehouse unused and don't get charged up. That damages or destroys them.

If they are lithium and have a bms, they may also sit on a shelf in a warehouse unused, and uncharged, and the bms drains some or all of the cells, damaging or destroying them.
 
For the battery's I had them running in my old daymak bike that the controller is burnt out on they read right now 53v for the 48v pack they are SLA batterys I have had no problem with them at all I don't have another controller at the moment but I am thinking on ordering a replacment, as far as the brakes go I have no idea why they are doing that as I know that they should be stopping the motor from accelerating. The weird thing is that I had taken the bike out for a test drive an hour earlier and it was super slow I had assumed it was the throttle not working correctly and I replaced the throttle and nothing happened. All of my lights work, signal's and the brake switches are working. Is there any test I can do on the controller before I go ahead and replace it ? I've even went to the extent and checked all of the capacitors and MOSFETs on the controller and they all seem to be fine. I will check the wiring asap to see if that may be the issue but since I was just on it an hour before this happened I thought it might be the controller or the motor I have also checked all of the hall sensors on the motor and the phase wires are good as well is there anything else I should try to get her to work as I need this bike to get to work and back daily and really hope I can fix it
 
Mikebate1313 said:
The weird thing is that I had taken the bike out for a test drive an hour earlier and it was super slow I had assumed it was the throttle not working correctly and I replaced the throttle and nothing happened.
Anytime you do something and then something doesn't work, the first thing to try is undoing whatever you did.

If that doesn't change it, you might check the things connected to or related to that.


is there anything else I should try to get her to work
Just the wiring, connectors, pins, etc, as well as what I said above.



Once it's working again then you can troubleshoot the slowness problem.
 
But that's the thing I understand that all I had done was unplugged the controller and plugged it back in. And I had replaced the throttle I'm so confused at this moment as I have never had this issue before
 
Mikebate1313 said:
But that's the thing I understand that all I had done was unplugged the controller and plugged it back in.
Unplugging and replugging something can reveal (or cause) problems with the connectors, pins, and wires. That's why I recommended checking those in extreme detail visually and with a multimeter.

And I had replaced the throttle I'm so confused at this moment as I have never had this issue before
Did you put the old throttle back? If not, the new throttle could be the problem.

It's even possible (though unlikely) that the new throttle damaged whatever it was connected to so the old one won't work right now either.

You could even have a completely unrelated problem, caused for instance by batteries (whcih is why I recommended testing, whether they worked before or not).

It could be caused by any of the things suggested, possibly others we don't know about--nearly anything electrical on the bike that's connected to the controller.

You have several problems, each of which could be related to the others or completely independent.

--brake lever not only doesn't stop the motor, it actually causes it to operate.

--motor doesn't run as fast as it did before.

--motor doesn't operate when it should, requires operation of different controls than normal to make it work at all.

--possibly other problems you haven't found that require the first problems to be fixed to reveal (or that will also go away when the other problems are fixed, if they are related).




If a device, vehicle, etc, has a problem, and you test one thing, and that doesn't reveal the problem, you do other tests. If you don't do the tests, you can't know that the problem doesn't lie somewhere in the untested areas. If you don't do a complete test on the tested area, you don't even know that the problem doesn't still lie in the tested area.

If you don't report the exact results of the tests (not "they're good" or "they worked before"), then *we* can't know what the actual status of various things are on the bike (cuz we're not there to test it ourselves), and so we can't know what else to check.

We can go on guessing all day, but until the tests are done completely, and the results reported, it's all just guessing, and doesn't get you any closer to a working bike.
 
I have been testing everything I'll put the test results below
Hall test - halls are working
Phase test - phase wires are all good
Continuity test for throttle - good
Throttle is good and so is the new one
Brake lever test - good lights are being illuminated when pulled
Controller MOSFET test - good
Battery readings - all @13.5 v holding a good charge

I have no clue what is going on here other than my controller must be pooched unless you have any ideas??
 
Other than the tests already suggested previously, and resuggested below, there's nothing else I can think of to test, based on the information you've provided so far.

You could just try swapping out with a new identical controller, but if it's not that, then you'd need to do the other tests to find the problem.



Note that I'm asking the questions below more to get you to consider the details than to get you post them, but if you can post them it may help. It may also help you understand why it is important to think of and test each of these things, and why I recommended the specific tests I did previously.

I ask in the cases below "What exactly does "good" mean? " because it doesn't say what your test results were, it only says what your judgement of the results were. If you're very certain that you know for sure the test you did was the correct test, and the only test needed, and that the results of the test were correct, then simply posting "good" or "bad" would be enough. But if you need help from others determining if the testing was what was needed and that the results were correct, to see what else might need testing, you'd want to post the actual test performed, and the actual results of the test.


For instance, if you tested a wire for continuity, you could say that you used a multimeter on continuity setting, and tested red probe from the tip of the pin on the throttle's ground wire to the ground pad on the controller's circuit board, and got zero ohms. That could also be simply said to be "good" but the former tells us what you actually tested and how exactly it worked out, and the latter only says you tested something and judged it good.

The detailed testing info and results may not tell us anything that helps you--but it could.

Mostly it may help you learn how to test and document for yourself, if you don't already know.

Mikebate1313 said:
Hall test - halls are working
Does working mean that when connected to the controller, and the system powered on, measuring at the connector between controller and motor, that each hall signal toggles from close to 0V up to almost 5V as you manually turn the wheel?

Or does it mean something else?

Phase test - phase wires are all good
What does good mean? And which wires? the ones inside the motor, or the ones outside the motor?

Does this mean the internal motor windings are tested to not be shorted to each other, or to the stator, but that each one is the right resistance and not open-circuit?

Or does this mean that each of the wires from inside the motor all the way to the controller, including the connector, tests at zero or close to zero resistance?

Or does it mean something else?


Continuity test for throttle - good
What exactly does "good" mean?

Is that testing the throttle itself for continuity internally? (A hall throttle that has continuity is defective, internally shorted. A potentiometer throttle that has continuity is also shorted, unless your meter is giving you the resistance of each side and the center pin. In that case to know if it is good you'd need to also know what resistance it is supposed to be.)

Or is it testing the connector pins and crimps to the wires?

Or is it testing the wires from the connectors to the throttle and from the connectors to the controller and/or anywhere else they go?


Throttle is good and so is the new one
"good" means what, exactly?

Does it mean the throttles both work on another bike?

Or does it mean that they provide the correct signal voltages all the way from off to full-throttle?



Brake lever test - good lights are being illuminated when pulled
Lights where? Brake lights on the taillight? If so, are those lights powered from the controller? Or from a separate unit?

If from a separate unit, have you tested the wiring and signals from teh brake to the controller to be sure they are correct? (compared to another identical bike, or compared to what you've previously tested as correct and working on this one, or compared to a best-guess of how it should operate).

Or are they lights on a separate panel that shows what each control is doing? Or are they status lights on the controller?


Battery readings - all @13.5 v holding a good charge
Does that mean they stay at 13.5v each when under a specific known load?

Or is that when testing the bike and seeing the problem?

Or is it when just sitting there not connected to anything?

Or is it when they are on the charger at a particular point in the charging process?

When you tested for a good charge, does that mean that when you discharge-tested them for capacity (Ah or Wh) at a specific load (amps or watts) similar to what the bike uses, they came up close to their rated capacity (in Ah or Wh)?

Or does it mean something else?
 
Well I have fixed the studdering motor problem and the fact that the brake used to make the motor accelerate that has been fixed as I had a bead of solder on the motherboard that was shorting out a chip on the board but now I have another problem now when I go to plug in the throttle cable it automatically accelerates But the throttle doesn't work at all but only when I plug it in . I have tried every combination for the wires and it keeps happening is there anything somebody might know about this issue -_-
 
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