full throttle, always on

hppav

1 mW
Joined
Jun 13, 2017
Messages
16
i have a generic chinese controller.

only thing connected are:
phase wires
hall wires
2 red wires from controller go to battery 1 red wire
1 black wire from controller go to battery 1 black wire.

but
as soon as i plug the throttle wire, it goes full blast/power/acceleration
it is going forward acceleration and not reverse

throttle wire has 3 wires:
red to red wire and black to black wire.
and middle wire.


the problem: is i can't control the throttle. it just goes full speed.

the wheels turn correctly. not reverse. so that rules out the phase wire connections?


any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Bad or miswired throttle.

If you disconnect the throttle and power on the controller, you should be able to measure the voltages on the throttle wires coming out of the controller.
One wire should be ground- connected directly to the battery negative. One should be about +5v measured against ground. The signal wire should measure zero volts but if you measure with an ohmmeter to ground, it will be around 10k-20k ohms (do this test with power off).

Before tossing the throttle, just be sure the wires are correctly mapped to the controller.
 
fechter said:
Bad or miswired throttle.

If you disconnect the throttle and power on the controller, you should be able to measure the voltages on the throttle wires coming out of the controller.
One wire should be ground- connected directly to the battery negative. One should be about +5v measured against ground. The signal wire should measure zero volts but if you measure with an ohmmeter to ground, it will be around 10k-20k ohms (do this test with power off).

Before tossing the throttle, just be sure the wires are correctly mapped to the controller.


i tried measuring the red and black wires from the controller and i have no readings. both with battery plugged in and off.


maybe i am missing something to connect to the controller?
 
i am wondering if anyone has bought a chinese generic controller and how have they made it work?
 
Voltron said:
Does the speed go down when you turn the throttle or does it stay om full no matter the throttle setting?

turning the throttle has no effect. for both of the throttle i have.
as soon as i connect the throttle to the controller, it goes full speed.

i am wondering if there is more connections i need to make?
or i just have to switch the wires in the the throttle connections?
 
skeetab5780 said:
Did you unplug the throttle and power on the controller like Fetcher said? What happens

nothing is happening. no motor turning.
only turns when i plug in the throttle.


thank you guys so much for the help so far.
 
only reason why i am using this controller and throttle
is because i didn't have a 48v battery for the 48v controller.
so i am currently running a 36v 350w controller.
 
I don't think you followed what Fetcher asked you to do, namely determine which wire from the controller is the negative one, which is the positive 5v one, and which is the signal one. So with the throttle unplugged and the controller powered on use your voltmeter to check for voltage between the black and red wires (from the controller) If you get 0 voltage there, check for voltage between the black and the other wire. If you get 0 voltage there check for voltage between the red and the other wire. Then report back your findings.
 
Rassy said:
I don't think you followed what Fetcher asked you to do, namely determine which wire from the controller is the negative one, which is the positive 5v one, and which is the signal one. So with the throttle unplugged and the controller powered on use your voltmeter to check for voltage between the black and red wires (from the controller) If you get 0 voltage there, check for voltage between the black and the other wire. If you get 0 voltage there check for voltage between the red and the other wire. Then report back your findings.

yes you are right.
when i connect my volt meter red to red and volt meter black to green, it shows 5v
so i switched the green to black and throttle still stays on.

Edit: so i checked my old controller and shows 5v as long as red is connected to red and black any of the 2 wires.
i tried again with the new controller and shows 5v on only of the 2 wires. the 3rd wire(black) doesnt seem to work.
 
THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH

it was a loose ground wire inside the controller. and maybe the other capacitors that i had to straighten out.

the black wire was loose inside which is the result of no voltage results from the test.

ALTHOUGH
when i put the controller back in the case, i have forgotten to put the screws on the mosfets side. so when i plug the controller wires in, it made a loud pop sound and a spark.
i look inside and there's a black spot on one of the mosfets under the controller board and a black spot in side the case.

so then i put the screws on this time in the mosfets side
AND IT IS FINALLY WORKING.
throttle is actually working now.


thanks especially to fechter, Rassy, and skeetab5780

THANK YOU GUYS
 
Edit: Great, you found the problem while I was typing this up!

Okay, getting closer, but still not enough information. (I am assuming the throttle is okay, since you got the same result with two different throttles.)

When you checked the wires from the controller and got the 5v reading was it positive 5v or negative 5v? I.e., meter red to controller red and meter black to controller black should have been positive 5v instead of 0. Was meter red to controller red and meter black to controller green positive 5v? If yes, then the red wire from the controller is indeed the positive wire (don't laugh, the red wire could be the negative wire or the sense wire, etc.)

In all probability the colors are correct and your problem is that the ground wire isn't making a good connection within the controller or has a fault in the wire. At this point, since you know there is a problem of some sort from the controller, I would open it up and find where that black wire is connected and use your meter to verify the voltage between the red wire and where the black wire connects to the controller is 5v. If so, then you just need to repair the fault or replace the black wire.
 
Glad you got it working but that black burn sounds like a problem. Maybe post a picture of it if you haven't fully installed the controller yet. the circuit board usually sits inside a groove in the aluminum housing so the soldered components don't short against the case. Sometimes there is a thin piece of insulation board there also. Its important to reconnect the mosfets to the case which is the heat sink and cools the circuit. But for simple testing it should still work at no load.

Hopefully nothing too serious happened since its still working
 
skeetab5780 said:
Glad you got it working but that black burn sounds like a problem. Maybe post a picture of it if you haven't fully installed the controller yet. the circuit board usually sits inside a groove in the aluminum housing so the soldered components don't short against the case. Sometimes there is a thin piece of insulation board there also. Its important to reconnect the mosfets to the case which is the heat sink and cools the circuit. But for simple testing it should still work at no load.

Hopefully nothing too serious happened since its still working




thank you.

i've already installed the controller on to the bike
it was just a round black burn on the bottom of the board and case. the board was touching the bottom of the case since i didn't put the screws on to hold them in place.

but i kept testing the controller before putting it on the bike.
will let you know the ride test.

will put on the brake levers to cut off the controller just in case.
and in the future will put on the cut off switch for the thin red wire on the controller.

really appreciate you guys' help.
and open to buy beers or help out for you guys.
 
If you need more info about that controller, you might check out this thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=68501
as it looks like the same one.

If it is, I'd be interested to know if yours actually ever responds to the hall wires, as mine will not--it *only* works sensorless and always ignores the halls, regardless of the motor it's on.


I just added another shunt to mine to make it actually give the 40A it is marked for (previously only gave about 3/4 of that).
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1322087&hilit=controller#p1322087
 
amberwolf said:
If you need more info about that controller, you might check out this thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=68501
as it looks like the same one.

If it is, I'd be interested to know if yours actually ever responds to the hall wires, as mine will not--it *only* works sensorless and always ignores the halls, regardless of the motor it's on.


I just added another shunt to mine to make it actually give the 40A it is marked for (previously only gave about 3/4 of that).
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1322087&hilit=controller#p1322087

@skeetab5780 will take pics when i can.

@amberwolf will do some ridding tests. haven't ridden it yet.
but i don't have any cycle analyst or watt meter installed yet to check the numbers.

when i get more familiar with the controller i will report back.

if you need me to do any specific tests or pics, let me know.
 
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