drawk wrote:As for this one, I will may order a 36v/48v controller eventually, unless I manage to find a way to get this up to at least 20mph instead of 15mph. I keep waffling between 500w and 750w and 1000w. Leaning towards 750w to be on the safe side vis-a-vis what the motor can handle and also for consideration of range - although I typically do short rides back and forth doing errands, with plenty of time to recharge between journeys if needed, and even with my Emmo that got stolen I have never come anywhere close to running out of juice on the 36v 11aH battery.
If you get a controller like the KT (kunteng) or LS (li shui) types, you can get them with an LCD that allows you to change their settings like power levels, etc. (and Stancecoke and Casainho are writing new firmware for those to give even better control). Just make sure you get the LCD *with* the controller or it may not be compatible--not all LCDs work with all controllers.
Then you can use it with the small motor on this thing (which probably isn't able to handle high power for very long), and then use it later on a bigger motor.
I've found that generally unless you have lots of hills or wind or constant stops and starts with a heavy bike (like mine), power level doesn't affect the range that much, assuming you are at the same speeds regardless of the power you have.
But if you *need* faster acceleration from a stop (like in traffic), or to climb a hill, or ride against hefty headwinds, *having* that higher power is very useful, even though it does use the battery up faster (and is harder on the battery and motor if they're smaller).
The external unit has pretty much everything connected to it except the battery connection, what I believe to be the PAS, and possibly one or two more wires to the motor.
If it has more than just battery power to it, you'll have to trace the wires inside and outside, and draw up a diagram of what goes to where. Then you can use that to help figure out if you can bypass the unit or not. You'll probably have to open the controller up to note what wires go to which pads inside that, too. (sometiems the markings make it easier to tell what's what, sometimes they don't).
If it's like one of the Fusin headlight units I have, it does have wires that go into it from throttle/brake on the bars, and then it just passes those back in a bigger cable (which also includes battery for the lights, power meter, and keyswitch) to the controller. But it isn't required--one can wire the keyswitch as just a loop (like yours has), and the brakes aren't required unless it does regen braking and you need that (or you want a cutoff for emergencies/etc). Then the throttle just has to be wired back to the controller separately.
The Fusin looks a bit like the one you have; mine was actually made by Wu Xing, but included in a motor kit by Fusin (no longer around).
At that time, I'll probably start a new thread about that. I'm fairly new to ES, and thinking that I'd get better traction posting that experiment to "E-Bike Technical" forum vs. the "Electric Vehicle Technology" forum.
I'd recommend asking a moderator (green or red names) to just move this thread there, instead of starting a new one, so you have all the info in one place.
You are being an amazing help, it is really appreciated.
I like helping where I can, and when I have time. Pays back what others have helped me in various ways, too.
BTW, I saw your "Raine Trike Build" thread, and that is *awesome*!
Thanks--have you seen the SB Cruiser--it's the older big brother of the Raine Trike, built to haul my St Bernards, their food, and other cargo:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 0#p1324091
Like most of my stuff it's evolved as I've learned and used it for things, so it's a fair bit different now than it was when it started out.
THe Raine trike is built from what I've learned there, and I'll use things I learn from the Raine Trike to update SBC, or build a new version someday.