MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Get all your technical information about electric bikes here.
markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 12254
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by markz » Sep 11 2015 9:05pm

TeslaNV, how did you get 12 guage through the axle?
I might have just wasted more money on PTFE wire that doesnt fit.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66625&p=1096892#p1096355

User avatar
teslanv   100 MW

100 MW
Posts: 2680
Joined: Nov 03 2013 8:42pm
Location: Bellevue, WA - USA
Contact:

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by teslanv » Sep 11 2015 9:56pm

markz wrote:TeslaNV, how did you get 12 guage through the axle?
I might have just wasted more money on PTFE wire that doesnt fit.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66625&p=1096892#p1096355
12AWG PTFE fits quite well, even with the stock hall wires. You will need to remove the outer sheath from the halls, though.
DD Hubs, Batteries, Controllers & Custom Ebikes.
http://westcoastelectrics.com
West Coast Electric Cycles
Bellevue, WA
USA

User avatar
louis raaijmakers   100 W

100 W
Posts: 159
Joined: Oct 09 2013 3:22pm

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by louis raaijmakers » Sep 14 2015 2:41pm

Hi es,
I have burned my first v1 4t mxus..
Luckely Barent was so nice to help my out with a new v2 stator!
But i dont want this to happen again.
So what is the best way to cool with air? (i ride in the wood and dont want stones in my hub :? )i have acces to milling machines. i have seen some ideas here with cooling fins and groves. i dont want fans in side...

greetings louis

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 12254
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by markz » Sep 14 2015 7:04pm

Please enlgihten us all, MXUS 3000W motor users, what you did to over heat and burn your motor?

I think you should go oil cooling, that would seem to be to be your best bet, or just plain old vents but I am unsure that those vents actually helps. Would be nice to get some cold hard data. I think IceCube put vents in his.

User avatar
Allex   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3280
Joined: Dec 05 2011 8:46am
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by Allex » Sep 14 2015 7:14pm

Oil cooling is more effective. I will try this for my next build. But i think it will be harder on the magnets. If the oil get above 80°C same heat will be on the magnets...

User avatar
Samd   1.21 GW

1.21 GW
Posts: 3667
Joined: Jun 28 2011 11:08pm
Location: Ballarat, AU
Contact:

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by Samd » Sep 14 2015 8:31pm

Note he burnt a v1. Thicker lams and steel core.
http://ballaratebikes.com/

ImageImageImage
"Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing that a 165mm rear shock can't deliver 220mm of rear swingarm travel." - Oprah Winfrey.

User avatar
madin88   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3116
Joined: May 27 2013 2:02am
Location: Austria

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by madin88 » Sep 15 2015 8:05am

I have some good news!
finally i got my axle sets ready for sale and i have started a thread:

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=72720
- 10kW belt drive with Neumotor 8057: [url]viewtopic.php?
- KTM Hardtail Pedelec / eZee V2 6T / 27,5" / Kelly KBSX @ 1,5kW / Torque PAS / CA-V3 / 13s4p Sanyo GA in Shark case

999zip999   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 9934
Joined: Jan 10 2010 1:40pm
Location: Dana Point So. Cal

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by 999zip999 » Sep 17 2015 12:54am

I hit a couple big pot holes and broke two spokes and over the last month broke 4 more. Now the rim is warped bad. An alxe dm24 I'm thinking a alxe dx 32 and 14/13 spaim spokes as I somehow got 13 ga. last time ? I think I should angle the holes in the rim to match the angle to the hub to be easier on the spoke. Can anyone help with my ideas with comments. I have rim brakes and can't go moped rim. Plus best place to buy a rim ? Thanks

User avatar
madin88   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3116
Joined: May 27 2013 2:02am
Location: Austria

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by madin88 » Sep 17 2015 3:09am

i have done it like this: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=63142&p=981365#p981365

It's alex DX32 24" bought from ebay. 13GA Sapim.
IMO it's better and more easy job to drill the motor flange as to mess around at the rim.

Image
- 10kW belt drive with Neumotor 8057: [url]viewtopic.php?
- KTM Hardtail Pedelec / eZee V2 6T / 27,5" / Kelly KBSX @ 1,5kW / Torque PAS / CA-V3 / 13s4p Sanyo GA in Shark case

999zip999   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 9934
Joined: Jan 10 2010 1:40pm
Location: Dana Point So. Cal

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by 999zip999 » Sep 17 2015 3:29am

Your photo looks different then the illustration in your link. The link has a cross after the flange or close to the flange. A 24in is a torque monster what turn do you have ? I have a 5t.
I need a 26 in rim for rear brakes. The angle of the nipple from the rim to the flange doesn't line up and gives spoke a hard angle right at the nipple. Looks the be a problem angle. Has anyone drilled at the angle. Plus the 13ga. Spokes had bigger nipples so I had drilled the rim alxe dm 24.

User avatar
madin88   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3116
Joined: May 27 2013 2:02am
Location: Austria

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by madin88 » Sep 17 2015 7:00am

999zip999 wrote:Your photo looks different then the illustration in your link. The link has a cross after the flange or close to the flange.
thats right, sorry. i decided to use 0-cross. just change that in the calculator (12mm spacing is right). if you lace it this way the spoke angle is about the same as on frontwheel and there is no hard angle at the nipple. i have not that much km on this bike and never hit a pothole, but the wheel holds up well so far.
- 10kW belt drive with Neumotor 8057: [url]viewtopic.php?
- KTM Hardtail Pedelec / eZee V2 6T / 27,5" / Kelly KBSX @ 1,5kW / Torque PAS / CA-V3 / 13s4p Sanyo GA in Shark case

999zip999   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 9934
Joined: Jan 10 2010 1:40pm
Location: Dana Point So. Cal

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by 999zip999 » Sep 17 2015 11:55am

Thanks madin I get what you are saying now or your point. My nipple angle is Xtreme with the fat nipples and the 13ga. Spokes from Roadrash and I should have drilled an even bigger hole and or at the proper angle to relieve the angle pressure with the spoke at the nipple.
Can a rim be trued after it warping or do I get a new rim and start over. Maybe this needs a new thread as I'm thinking of 13/14 spaim spokes with smaller nipples and a alxe dx32 rim and may have to still angle drill the rim ? ???

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 12254
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by markz » Sep 17 2015 1:12pm

FYI -
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
Radial Spoking

Radial spoked (cross 0) wheels have the spokes going straight out from the hub. This pattern is only suitable for front wheels that don't use hub brakes. They are very cool-looking, and are often a good choice for the ultimate in performance, because they are slightly lighter and, in theory, may have a very slight ærodynamic edge.
There are two things to watch out for with radial wheels. Because the nipples point straight inward from the rim, they can turn more easily in most rims than when they are bent to a slight angle by a semi-tangent spoke pattern. This ease of turning increases the risk of their unscrewing themselves on the road. To prevent this, nipples on radial wheels should not be lubricated, and it is a good idea to use a spoke adhesive such as Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or one of the milder flavors of Loctite ® on them. (Or, if a rim does not have recessed spoke holes, the rim tape and air pressure in the inner tube will keep the spokes from turning -- at least with a high-pressure tire).
The other potential problem with radial wheels is that the spokes, trailing straight outward on the hub flange, can possibly rip the outer edge of the flange right off along the line of the spoke holes. This is most likely to happen with small-flange, 36 hole hubs, because there is less metal between the spoke holes. If a used hub is re-laced radially, the notches left by the old spokes can act as stress risers, further weakening the flange.
Many hub manufacturers specifically recommend against radial spoking for this reason, and will not honor warranties on hubs that have been spoked radially.
Some folks will say that no bicycle wheels should be radially spoked for this reason, so do this at your own risk. In my experience, it's generally OK with good-quality hubs that have forged shells.

[Note from John Allen: heed this! Back in 1980, unaware of these issues, I built a front wheel for my tandem with 40 radial spokes on a medium-flange, "boutique" hub with machined flanges. After a few months of use, the wheel mysteriously went slightly out of true, and I trued it. I might better have taken the loss of true as a red-flag warning. One day, I just happened to be sitting on the floor next to my tandem, glanced at the front hub and noticed a crack extending along the line between several spoke holes. I had been foolish, and I was very lucky. I rebuilt the wheel on a large-flange hub, using the same spokes in a semi-tangent pattern, and I have ridden that wheel for 30 years since without any problem. If you ever notice a radially-spoked front wheel -- or, actually, any front wheel -- l mysteriously going slightly out of true, stop, get off the bicycle and call for a ride home or to a bike shop.]

User avatar
madin88   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3116
Joined: May 27 2013 2:02am
Location: Austria

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by madin88 » Sep 18 2015 10:27am

my wheel is not laced radially it has paired spoke holes. as mentioned the spoke angle is like on a front wheel with 3-cross. this means it can transfer torque. a radial laced wheel with 90° spoke angle theoretically can't transfer torque. it must twist at least to 89,9° so everyone can imagine what happens at large torque levels.
i never would lace a hubmotor radially. the wheel will not have long lifespan.
- 10kW belt drive with Neumotor 8057: [url]viewtopic.php?
- KTM Hardtail Pedelec / eZee V2 6T / 27,5" / Kelly KBSX @ 1,5kW / Torque PAS / CA-V3 / 13s4p Sanyo GA in Shark case

eilo84   1 µW

1 µW
Posts: 3
Joined: Sep 22 2015 9:05pm

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by eilo84 » Oct 01 2015 2:20pm

Just a simple question. Is unit designed as a spacer to go behind the rotor or does it go on the outside as a lock for the bolts?
Attachments
IMG_20151001_120806.jpg
Doverkill

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 12254
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by markz » Oct 01 2015 3:04pm

Inside I believe

User avatar
madin88   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3116
Joined: May 27 2013 2:02am
Location: Austria

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by madin88 » Oct 02 2015 2:59am

i never make use of this plate. brake rotor srews need to be tightened to a specific torque and i believe with such plastic plate they may become loose.
- 10kW belt drive with Neumotor 8057: [url]viewtopic.php?
- KTM Hardtail Pedelec / eZee V2 6T / 27,5" / Kelly KBSX @ 1,5kW / Torque PAS / CA-V3 / 13s4p Sanyo GA in Shark case

BoomerChomsi   1 kW

1 kW
Posts: 359
Joined: Oct 27 2014 1:15pm
Location: ...Somewhere.....

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by BoomerChomsi » Oct 02 2015 1:58pm

You need spacers of metal much better and a lot of choices in sizes.
This plastic one is junk, I have used for while and rotor alignment was out of tolerance.
Believe and Do

ecycler   10 kW

10 kW
Posts: 803
Joined: Apr 03 2014 9:30pm
Location: USA

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by ecycler » Oct 02 2015 3:25pm

You will probably need 4-5mm of spacers for two reasons:

1. It gives a little more room for your calipers so they will fit without rubbing.
2. It is safer to extend the disc from the wheel than the caliper from the hanger or hanger from the bracket if you intend to ride this thing as hard and fast as most of us do.

While we are on this subject. If you do use the spacers make sure to install bolts on your rotor that are 5mm longer or you could be in for a rude awakening as to why this is necessary.
Any grease is better than no grease.
The best exercises are the ones you enjoy doing.
I strongly prefer vehicles without doors.

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 12254
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by markz » Oct 03 2015 12:29am

What that spacer is 5mm thick?


Also, I bought M5 x 10mm and they dont fit the cover onto hub, they are too wide. I will exchange for M4.
teslanv wrote:
markz wrote:What is the spec for the cover plate bolts?
The cover plate screws do not carry much load. They serve only to keep the stator centered within the rotor, and support of the dead weight of the bike/rider on the axle. The motor covers are further supported by the slight lip that engages the rotor, which is a machined and snug fit. The cover screws are cheap, though. M5x15mm Cap Screws or thereabouts.

User avatar
ziltoid81   1 kW

1 kW
Posts: 305
Joined: Mar 07 2014 9:35pm
Location: Germany

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by ziltoid81 » Oct 06 2015 7:02pm

Rode my first charge with the v2 t4 laced in a 24 inch bicycle rim.
74V/47.5Ah battery.
Adaptto max-e @60/120A

I only did the autodetect.

I had a really good efficiency with this setup, ~17wh/km and rode 194km with ~3200wh.
Flat area, mid to strong pedaling.

My problem is overheating.
I cant push 1500w constantly.
I tried it today, 50-55kmh @1200-1600W plus pedaling and it goes hotter and hotter.
Even at lower power the temperature rises slowly but constantly, if you dont pedal harder and go slower for a few km.

I didn't put my hand on the manual finetuning so far.
My thoughts are "If my wh per km are good, the tuning have to be good too."

What do you guys can push over a longer period trough this motor?
I read statements like " it can take 60A all day long".
But mine overheats with less......but my wh/km rating is better than what i see here and there in the forum.

Maybe my temp probe is faulty, above 70C it goes crazy from 75 to 345 in one second and then to zero and all again.
Below 70 it works well, when the bike stays outside for hours, the motor temp is equal to the outside temp.

User avatar
Doctorbass   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 7440
Joined: Apr 08 2007 2:24am
Location: Quebec, Canada East
Contact:

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by Doctorbass » Oct 06 2015 8:31pm

These 3T motor can apparently take multiple 19.5kW burst no prob!

Max temp see on the adaptto 95 celsius.. Outdoor temp: about 15.. YES.... i know winter is coming :roll:
Attachments
20151004_174515 (Personnalisé).jpg
20151004_174515 (Personnalisé).jpg (128.76 KiB) Viewed 1836 times
20151004_174902 (Personnalisé).jpg
20151004_174902 (Personnalisé).jpg (120.06 KiB) Viewed 1836 times
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
YOUTUBE---https://m.youtube.com/user/Doctorbasss
http://twitter.com/DocbassMelancon
I speak FRENCH and english

User avatar
Samd   1.21 GW

1.21 GW
Posts: 3667
Joined: Jun 28 2011 11:08pm
Location: Ballarat, AU
Contact:

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by Samd » Oct 07 2015 12:20am

ziltoid81 wrote: My problem is overheating.
I cant push 1500w constantly.
Check all possible phase combos. There's something quite wrong with your current setup.
http://ballaratebikes.com/

ImageImageImage
"Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing that a 165mm rear shock can't deliver 220mm of rear swingarm travel." - Oprah Winfrey.

User avatar
ziltoid81   1 kW

1 kW
Posts: 305
Joined: Mar 07 2014 9:35pm
Location: Germany

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by ziltoid81 » Oct 07 2015 4:20am

Samd wrote:
ziltoid81 wrote: My problem is overheating.
I cant push 1500w constantly.
Check all possible phase combos. There's something quite wrong with your current setup.
Im using an Adaptto, so the phase combos doesn't matters.
At least they say that in their manual.

Image

Also my energy consumption isn't that high, the setup cant be too far off.
Just wondering when i read what you guys push to this motor.
But I'm looking for constant load, not bursts.
I use the bike for commuting and need moderate power, but for many kilometers.

I will try Allex's parameters and see what happens.

User avatar
Allex   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3280
Joined: Dec 05 2011 8:46am
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor

Post by Allex » Oct 07 2015 6:22am

1500W constant is what the motor is rated for really. It will never sustain 3000W during a long time. Regarding the adaptto, you need to find the correct angles values otherwise your will get overheting in the motor or controller.

Post Reply