MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

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Offroader   10 MW

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Offroader » Feb 08 2017 9:52pm

Need your guys opinion on this.

The side covers on the MXUS come off so easily compared with the cromotor.

Do you think this would mean the stator would move slightly inside the hub during operation? I would assume that the outer motor would slide left and right slightly when riding.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by amberwolf » Feb 09 2017 12:32am

No, it doesn't move. (mine doesn't).

If yours does, then the bearings are not the right width to fill the space between the inner axle shoulders and the inside of the covers. You could fix that with spacer rings, either bought for that size, or made from washers drilled out to the right ID or custom made from flat metal of the necessary thickness.


Your covers might be easier to remove if they are machined for a looser fit.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Offroader » Feb 09 2017 1:51am

What I notice is that I can pretty much pull the side covers off with my fingers after I unbolt them, maybe slightly using a screw driver to get it started. My Cromotor took a gear puller to do that.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Allex » Feb 09 2017 6:41am

with the old v2 you needed a gear puller. v3 is much easier to pull apart. Could be due to a smaller gap stator-magnets have not checked that.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by amberwolf » Feb 09 2017 1:05pm

Offroader wrote:What I notice is that I can pretty much pull the side covers off with my fingers after I unbolt them, maybe slightly using a screw driver to get it started. My Cromotor took a gear puller to do that.
I would guess that there is simply a looser fit of the covers onto the rotor (at the outer circumference of the covers), or of the bearings into the cover, or of the bearings onto the axle shoulder. Wouldn't take much to change it from an interference fit (requiring pullers) to a snug fit (much easier).

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Rix » Feb 09 2017 4:58pm

Offroader wrote:Need your guys opinion on this.

The side covers on the MXUS come off so easily compared with the cromotor.

Do you think this would mean the stator would move slightly inside the hub during operation? I would assume that the outer motor would slide left and right slightly when riding.
Same with the V2, it pops off way easier than the 54xx and H40xx and TC 30 and 40. Feels almost like cheating.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by markz » Feb 09 2017 5:33pm

I use the ground method and protecting the axle to pop mine off, v2. Gotta watch em fingers when putting it back in.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Aceinthesky » Feb 11 2017 10:17am

I bought a EM3V3 18fet controller, ca v3, and MXUS 3000w v3 3t. I'm trying to figure out how to connect everyting. When I hook up matching colors with the phase wires and one of the sets of the hall sensors, the motor runs smooth and everything seems to work, except for the temp sensor, which shows 0 voltage in cycle analyst. Leaving everything connected I disconnected the red, white, and black wire, and connect the red/white/black wire from the other set of hall sensors, and now I get voltage in the temp display in ca and the temp sensor shows right ambient temperature, but the motor stops spinning and seems stuck. I'm kinda lost now.

"""Updated my post """

Another update:

I got the temp sensor to work by connecting both red wires together and using the temp sensor from the other non working hall set. It seems that, I have a set of non working hall sensors with a working temp sensor, and another set of working halls with a dead temp sensor. Take it from me, buy from a vendor that tests these motors before shipment, lesson learned. This was a major headache for me at least.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Offroader » Feb 23 2017 12:54am

Need your advice. The blue cardboard under the hall wires in the picture is placed on both sides of the motor, as shown in the picture.

I removed these for my air cooling modification.

I had one side of my halls go bad since this was removed, it would give me a HALLS error on my controller under high throttle current.

Are these blue cardboard pieces placed there for a reason?

Image

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Offroader » Feb 24 2017 6:57pm

Just wanted to say that this MXUS turbo motor is like a rocket, it has so much torque. The lighter weight of the hub compared to my cromotor V3, which is about 5lbs / 2.3KG less weight, makes a big difference in the handling. The rear isn't so harsh anymore. It doesn't bounce around nearly as much and throw the whole rear violently up when hitting something large at fast speeds.

Compared to the QS205, the weight difference is even much higher.

I can also easily feel the difference when riding down steps, where the heavier cromotor would bounce around, the MXUS turbo doesn't bounce around. Surprised just 5lbs less weight was able to make such a noticeable difference.

I just modified my MXUS turbo for forced air cooling and overheating is a non-issue now, I can ride the bike as hard as I want and it won't ever overheat. So I am finally able to really test the motor out and am just really happy with the performance of this motor.

The only drawback I can say is that unless you have a cooling solution, you will deal with overheating issues more easily than with a QS205 or Cromotor. You really want to cool it with at least FF. With my cooling modification, overheating is a non-issue. But before I did it, the motor would overheat super fast.

Image

Image

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Rix » Feb 25 2017 5:07pm

Offroader wrote:Just wanted to say that this MXUS turbo motor is like a rocket, it has so much torque. The lighter weight of the hub compared to my cromotor V3, which is about 5lbs / 2.3KG less weight, makes a big difference in the handling. The rear isn't so harsh anymore. It doesn't bounce around nearly as much and throw the whole rear violently up when hitting something large at fast speeds.

Compared to the QS205, the weight difference is even much higher.

I can also easily feel the difference when riding down steps, where the heavier cromotor would bounce around, the MXUS turbo doesn't bounce around. Surprised just 5lbs less weight was able to make such a noticeable difference.

I just modified my MXUS turbo for forced air cooling and overheating is a non-issue now, I can ride the bike as hard as I want and it won't ever overheat. So I am finally able to really test the motor out and am just really happy with the performance of this motor.

The only drawback I can say is that unless you have a cooling solution, you will deal with overheating issues more easily than with a QS205 or Cromotor. You really want to cool it with at least FF. With my cooling modification, overheating is a non-issue. But before I did it, the motor would overheat super fast.

]

[url=http://s105.photobucket.com/user/edward ... k.jpg.html]Image
Fix your seat already, get a vinyl repair kit and take about 3 minutes, your bike is flawless except for the duct tape repair on the seat. :lol: :lol: Just messin with you bro, Yah I never ran the cromotor, but running the 5404, the MXUS is so much better, and yes, it does over heat a little quicker, small price to pay for the major improvement in handling because its 6 pounds lighter.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Offroader » Feb 25 2017 5:48pm

Yeah, I am not happy with the rip in the vinyl seat. I've researched vinyl repairs and there doesn't seem to really any good kits. I'd have to really spend like $50 or more to get the right kit so that it is a strong repair.

Since Im going to place an order with Qulbix for some stuff, I am going to ask them if they 'can sell me cut vinyl that they use for making the seats (I like the vinyl pattern they used so want an exact match). I will then just restaple brand new Vinyl and not deal with a repair.

I want to eventually Mill the magnet ring on my motor to lighten it by possible another 1 or 2 lbs.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by markz » Feb 25 2017 7:43pm

Rix wrote:Yah I never ran the cromotor, but running the 5404, the MXUS is so much better, and yes, it does over heat a little quicker, small price to pay for the major improvement in handling because its 6 pounds lighter.
Noted

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by douglashart » Mar 17 2017 12:11pm

Ive looked, but not seeing it. Has there been any consensus about the amount of ferrofluid to use in the MXUS?

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by macribs » Mar 17 2017 1:46pm

5 ml seems to be what people drop. It was also the recommended amount in the very long cooling thread.

I've read that a few that uses wider motors double up and uses 10 ml. To be honest 5 or 10 ml ferrofluid does not matter much I think.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by douglashart » Mar 21 2017 9:00pm

Thanks mac, I did find justins recommendation for 7ml in the MXUS, but I'm sure right, its not an exact thing. ANOTHER question I have. I just swapped 2 mxus motors , I put 1 stator in the other because one wheel was built and I built an axel mod into another stator .I'm still putting together the other stock motor. NOW I'm wondering about the spacers on the axel , and how to judge how many to use. I believe my V1 was a bit loose because when I pushed wot the brake would rub slightly. Any input? thnx

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Sergiocielo » Mar 22 2017 4:09am

Dear all.
I'm a mechanical engineer so please excuse my ignoranza in electrical and electronic fields. I see here you are very competent in PMBLDC motor with which my start up www.minimalpowertrain.com is developping several project. We have choosen this power unit configuration that corresponds a chinese standard you are discussing: 46 flat magnets (13.64-30-3 mm), 51 slots, 198 mm stator OD; 205 rotor ID; 0.5 mm air thk. that, confifgured with 4 Turns-15 Parallel-0.53 mm cupper wire can give about 650 rpm.
My question are:

1. which is the maximum achievable unloaded speed and how you calculate theoretically this value?
2. which is the achievable starting torque
3. which is the maximum torque in S2 service for 10 and 20 minutes?

Obviously that a very competent good people interested to work under minimalpowertrain phylosophy and goals is welcomed.

Thanks

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Rix » Mar 22 2017 8:10am

Sergiocielo wrote:Dear all.
I'm a mechanical engineer so please excuse my ignoranza in electrical and electronic fields. I see here you are very competent in PMBLDC motor with which my start up http://www.minimalpowertrain.com is developping several project. We have choosen this power unit configuration that corresponds a chinese standard you are discussing: 46 flat magnets (13.64-30-3 mm), 51 slots, 198 mm stator OD; 205 rotor ID; 0.5 mm air thk. that, confifgured with 4 Turns-15 Parallel-0.53 mm cupper wire can give about 650 rpm.
My question are:

1. which is the maximum achievable unloaded speed and how you calculate theoretically this value?
2. which is the achievable starting torque
3. which is the maximum torque in S2 service for 10 and 20 minutes?

Obviously that a very competent good people interested to work under minimalpowertrain phylosophy and goals is welcomed.

Thanks
Ciao Sergio, benvenuto al nostra forum. The motor data you referenced obviously will have a 23 pole count. I am not one of the more technical savvy guys here, but your answer to question #1 is going to vary based on the number of volts being pushed into the motor. This is known as the "constant velocity per volt" rating, or KV value. Typically what I have seen with motors I have had experience with the data you referenced above will have around 7.5-9KV range. To calculate "achievable unloaded speed" we need to know the KV rate of the motor and volts from the power supply/battery. Keep in mind this is a generalization and doesn't mean that's going to be the case all of the time. We can also theorize on question 2-3, but until a working prototype is constructed and tested, you probably wont have an exact figures. Hopefully someone else will chime in and provide more detailed info about questions 2 and 3 as my knowledge is is fairly limited.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Sergiocielo » Mar 23 2017 11:29am

Thanks Rix for the answer.
I have forgotten to specify that battery pack has 48V DC because EN 15194 imposes this maximum value for Pedelec.
I know that usually this motor's configuration has a standard speed between 350-400 rpm but we are interested to achieve the highest speed.
From what I know there is a problem due to back fem that limits the maximum achievable speed but I don't know exactly if with this high number of poles by managing high frequency of PWM will be possible anyway to reach 800 rpm as unloaded speed that is our goal together a good efficiency.
Sergio

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by rumme » Mar 28 2017 8:57am

Does anyone know the torque rating in NM"S for the MXUSV3 compared to the LEAFBIKE motor , running on a 48 volt - 50 amp controller in a 26" wheel ?

My Bafang geared motor has a 80 NM torque rating, and it seems to be lacking the torque I need.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by teslanv » Mar 28 2017 12:31pm

Sergiocielo wrote:Thanks Rix for the answer.
I have forgotten to specify that battery pack has 48V DC because EN 15194 imposes this maximum value for Pedelec.
I know that usually this motor's configuration has a standard speed between 350-400 rpm but we are interested to achieve the highest speed.
From what I know there is a problem due to back fem that limits the maximum achievable speed but I don't know exactly if with this high number of poles by managing high frequency of PWM will be possible anyway to reach 800 rpm as unloaded speed that is our goal together a good efficiency.
Sergio
Have you tried using the bike simulator? It has the four most common windings of the MXUS 3000W motors.

http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

4503 = 3T winding, ~11.9 Kv
4504 = 4T winding, ~8.9 Kv
4505 = 5T winding ,~7.2Kv
4506 = 6T winding, ~6.0 Kv
DD Hubs, Batteries, Controllers & Custom Ebikes.
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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by Sergiocielo » Apr 03 2017 3:02am

Dear Teslanv.

The simulator seems an appreciable work and I think it is been designed by considering the opposite forces to the bicycle's advancement in flat: inertia, rolling resistance, air drag resistance, plus the inclined force's component for climbing.

I like this simulator but I would like to understand how much precise it is and how it works related to the different motor's performance in the drop down menu.

I'm available to collaborate in its improving if this may give pleasure.

Anyway my question was:

1. how the coefficient Kv and Kt are calculated: are they given from Mxus or what (I know directly this company)

2. over 750-1000 W Mxus as other designed from different suppliers they change in some parameters as: reduced number of pole, reduced number of slots, higher thickness of ferromagnetic annular ring where magnets are glued and materials so that I don't think that the values of the aforementioned constant are valid in the configuration in which I'm interested: 46 flat magnets (13.64-30-3 mm), 51 slots, 198 mm stator OD; 205 rotor ID; 0.5 mm air thk. that, confifgured with 4 Turns-15 Parallel-0.53 mm cupper wire can give about 650 rpm.

The question submitted regards this motor commonly called 198 serie or 205 mm.

Thanks

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by rumme » Apr 05 2017 1:21pm

Question about MXUS V1-V2-V3-V3 TURBO
Out of these different offerings of motors , which option would be the least expensive to give highest torque output with a top speed of 30-35 mpg using it with a 26" fatbike wheel on a 48 volt - battery and a Lyen 12 fet controller set to max output of 50-60 amps ? I wasn't sure if a older version of a MXUS motor with a high turn count, would achieve my needs as easily as the newer MXUS motor offerings. I'm guessing I need at least 150 NMS of torque because the BAFANG 750 watt geared hub motor was rated at 80 NMS, and it wasn't nearly enough. Also, would the leafbike motor be a less expensive alternative to the MXUS motors for my torque/ top speed needs ? 35 mph is the fastest I need , it is the torque I am really after.

To make the question easier, I guess I'm looking for the least expensive route to 35 MPH top speed with exceptional torque { 150 Nms or more} using a direct drive hub motor on a 48 volt battery and a 50-60 amp output lyen controller , without worrying about overheating issues in the motor.

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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by madin88 » Apr 05 2017 1:45pm

rumme wrote: To make the question easier, I guess I'm looking for the least expensive route to 35 MPH top speed with exceptional torque { 150 Nms or more} using a direct drive hub motor on a 48 volt battery and a 50-60 amp output lyen controller , without worrying about overheating issues in the motor.
with an input power of only 3000W it will be hard to get 150Nm of torque out of a DD hub.
you would need an extremly large motor which is very efficient in producing torque.
maybe a slow wind of the QS273 could do this, but with ~17kg it is a heavy beast and lacing it into a fat bike rim would be no good idea..

Have you thought about a 2WD setup (two MAC motors)?
I can tell you that if you are about acceleration from 0 - 40kmh, such setup will EAT most 10kW+ hub driven bikes with only a third of total input power 8)
you would have no regen, but overall it would make much more sense for a fat bike
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Re: MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Post by rumme » Apr 05 2017 2:08pm

madin88 wrote:
rumme wrote: To make the question easier, I guess I'm looking for the least expensive route to 35 MPH top speed with exceptional torque { 150 Nms or more} using a direct drive hub motor on a 48 volt battery and a 50-60 amp output lyen controller , without worrying about overheating issues in the motor.
with an input power of only 3000W it will be hard to get 150Nm of torque out of a DD hub.
you would need an extremly large motor which is very efficient in producing torque.
maybe a slow wind of the QS273 could do this, but with ~17kg it is a heavy beast and lacing it into a fat bike rim would be no good idea..

Have you thought about a 2WD setup (two MAC motors)?
I can tell you that if you are about acceleration from 0 - 40kmh, such setup will EAT most 10kW+ hub driven bikes with only a third of total input power 8)
you would have no regen, but overall it would make much more sense for a fat bike
Thanks for reply, I thought since my top speed requirements were kinda low, it would be easier to achieve the hi torque from a 48 volt/ 50-60 amp setup . I guess moving up to a 60 volt - 50-60 amp output wont make much of a difference either and that 72 volts would be needed for the high torque - 35 MPH top speed goal on a 26 inch direct drive hub motor ?

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