Cute Q100H Autopsy & Modify 2017

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motomech   1 GW

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Re: Cute Q100H Autopsy & Modify 2017

Post by motomech » Apr 19 2018 9:47pm

I wouldn't do that.
I added ATF to a Q100 several years ago and without dedicated axle seals, it came right out and rendered my disc brake useless.
I had to take the whole thing apart to clean out the mess.
I don't understand why everyone is so worried about the Q100 "over-heating". On reasonable power, the 201 and 260 variants spin so fast they don't over-heat anything and w/ the 328, what I over-heated was the controller, specifically, I melted the phase connectors.
W/ one of my current bikes, I'm running a 201C on 14S (54.6 V nom.) w/ a 20 Amp 9-FET w/ no heating prob.s and weigh 250 lb.s and live in TUcson. Haven't used it yet in the dead of summer yet, but I'm not worried.
Why "fix" a prob. you haven't experienced yet?
And if it does melt or cook something, that's just the Ebike Gods telling you, you need a bigger motor.
Motomech


'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100H 201 frt. mounted, 14S Multistar LiPoly, elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A, Crazy Bobs on Alex DM32's 21 to 22 MPH. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28151&p=1373714&hilit=Idrive#p13737

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Papa   1 kW

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Re: Cute Q100H Autopsy & Modify 2017

Post by Papa » Apr 20 2018 7:12pm

motomech wrote:
Apr 19 2018 9:47pm
I wouldn't do that.
I added ATF to a Q100 several years ago and without dedicated axle seals, it came right out and rendered my disc brake useless.
I had to take the whole thing apart to clean out the mess.
First... I'm not using ATF. And second,... I installed axle seals. As expected, I don't have leakage.
motomech wrote:
Apr 19 2018 9:47pm
Why "fix" a prob. you haven't experienced yet?
And if it does melt or cook something, that's just the Ebike Gods telling you, you need a bigger motor.
The changes I have made are solely intended to improve efficiency and longevity - Makes no sense to me to install a lower efficient "bigger motor", when this one has been bench tested to 1.4kW... and the stator never reached 75c.... on a steady 75V nominal diet.
~ Recycle... Ride your bike again ~

-dg   1 kW

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Re: Cute Q100H Autopsy & Modify 2017

Post by -dg » Apr 28 2018 9:51pm

Papa wrote:
Apr 20 2018 7:12pm
I'm not using ATF. And second,... I installed axle seals. As expected, I don't have leakage.
Maybe I missed it up thread, but what are you using instead of ATF? And are the axle seals really neccesary? If so, can you show a picture or a part number? I'm really interested in your approach and results with these motors.
If simplicity worked, the world would be overrun with insects.

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Papa   1 kW

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Re: Cute Q100H Autopsy & Modify 2017

Post by Papa » Apr 30 2018 7:00pm

-dg wrote:
Apr 28 2018 9:51pm
Papa wrote:
Apr 20 2018 7:12pm
I'm not using ATF. And second,... I installed axle seals. As expected, I don't have leakage.
Maybe I missed it up thread, but what are you using instead of ATF? And are the axle seals really neccesary? If so, can you show a picture or a part number? I'm really interested in your approach and results with these motors.
I'm using pure silicone 50 cSt. Yes, axle seals are required if you use oil. I cut a single grove in the axle and used an O-ring. I also removed all inside bearing seals to completely eliminate grease.

I've been extremely busy as I'm moving to a new location - thanks to 25 yrs of accumulation.
~ Recycle... Ride your bike again ~

Oli.Hall   10 µW

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Re: Cute Q100H Autopsy & Modify 2017

Post by Oli.Hall » Jul 16 2020 6:15am

Sorry to raise this thread from the dead!

To access and remove the rotor, when separating the two halves of the stator casing, after removing the drive-side stub-axle and the planet gears, then turning the motor over and removing the the six screws around the edge of the stator casing cover, does anyone remember if you need to remove anything else before you can separate the two halves of the stator casing in order to access and remove the rotor?

Is there anything under the cable-side stub-axle that retains the rotor like a circlip or similar? Or after the screws are removed, is it now just the interference fit of the rotor bearings in the stator-casing that holds the two halves of the stator-casing together?

Do you need a puller to remove the rotor, or can you push out the bearings without one?

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