Weird. I am not sure if the winding changes in the different ranges. My understanding was that the gear ratios changed. Maybe if you tell them that it's going in a 20 inch wheel, they'll offer you the 12.25:1 ratio motor. You may have to run the motor at 15A to get any real off-the-line pull with that lower gearing and a 700c wheel though, and I don't know how well the motor will handle that many amps. I'm still running my motor at 12A which is OK for my typical riding conditions and the 17.5:1 gearing.neptronix wrote: ↑May 08, 2018 4:26 pmI contacted them on alibaba and they only offered me a winding that does 28kmh ( 17mph ) for a 700c wheel. No mention of the 12.25:1 version. I had to refer to this thread to find that out.
I have a nice roadbike with drop bars and can hit 27mph on a flat pedaling sans motor if there's a slight grade or a tailwind, so i think the 12.25:1 ratio version would be more appropriate for a constant mild boost with PAS. I'm going to keep the phase amp to battery ratio extra gimpy ( maybe 2:1 or less ) so that it only gives me ~100w of boost from a stall and forces me to shift and pedal hard to get up to speed until the midrange kicks in and the wattage climbs to 200, 300, and peak at 350w, as that's what the efficiency curve tells us is the sweet spot for this motor
This motor will give WAY more power with the higher reduction ratio on 48v+, but i'm just looking for lightness and the simplicity of running a tiny 10S battery and the lightest hub that money can buy.
Is the q100h much more powerful? I m considering adding a front geared motor to my cargo bike. It would complete my rear DD as there are lots of loadzro-1 wrote: ↑May 29, 2018 5:50 pmI don’t think any geared version of this motor will sustain 30+ mph. And this is definitely not a motor to use if you want torque or to carry cargo like a kid and another bike. The 17.5:1 geared motor, with a fully charged 48V pack (54.6V), tops out at about 28 mph. That’s a guess though because I don’t have a speedo to know for sure, but based on my fitness tracker app, on the sections where I was pedaling fast downhill I was hitting 28-30 mph and the motor was just spinning and not contributing anything. On a flat stretch with considerable input on my part, the motor will sustain 24-28 mph tops.
Maybe, if you hook this up to a 14s pack for peak voltage of 58.8V you could get to or over 30 on flat terrain but I have no idea how long the motor would last at the power level. Even with the most torquey gearing this motor needs 12A to have any pull to it.
If you want 30+ mph, get a Q100h
I don't know if I'd say "much" more powerful, but it seems so far like the Q100 can take more. The Q100h was easily taking 20A from a 13s pack (1,092W at full charge) and since I had the high RPM version it easily hit 30 mph. I haven't tried putting more than 12A (655W at full charge) into the YTW-06, but I doubt it could take 20A. EDIT: I forgot that I had bumped the amps up to 18A (983W at full charge) a couple weeks ago.
Ah yes, sorry, I've got the Cycle Analyst on order, i'll edit that.I forgot to mention, the Phaserunner doesn’t have any input for motor temperature or speed.
Also, the PhaseRunner is designed for up to 72V so both your 20s and 21s batteries are going to be too much for it
That shouldn't be any surprise. Geared motors are built for low weight, and you can't expect the clutches to be overbuilt. They also suck at shedding heat. Best way to keep one on the road long term is to stay close to it's power limits.cwah wrote: ↑May 30, 2018 3:43 amYeah please put miles on it and see how long it holds. I broke so many BPM bpm2 clutches I decided to stop using geared motors! The last BPM was only at 1.5kw peak power!
I know another member here used to have a q100h and broke the clutch as well after few months at 1kw power
zro-1 wrote: ↑Apr 09, 2018 7:13 pmInitial motor impression, copied from my build thread:
Good bits first:
The motor performs really nicely! The motor's power and top speed at 48V is exactly what I wanted. It pulls enough that I don't have to work very hard up the hills, though I do have to work (which is what I wanted—assist, not pedal-less climbing). The top speed is good. I don't have a speedo, so I can't tell you exactly how fast, but Strava reports my top speed at 28.2 mph. I'm positive the bike can go a bit faster, but the twitchy steering had me a little nervous so I was taking it easy. At top speed I was still able to contribute pedal input without just ghost pedaling, which was one of my biggest complaints with the fast Q100.
HI when uo say that at top speed you were ghost pedaling with q100 i dont understand what you mean. do you mean the bike was going so fast that you did not have enough gears to add power? is why are you not ghost pedalling with de ytw since it goes faster than the q100?
It's a long story, but the Q100 I received was geared or wound at the fastest 328 RPM (at 36V) speed. So it was faster at the same voltage. My bike is a single-speed, so I don't have a higher gear to shift into to keep the pedals engaged. That was why I was ghost pedaling with the Q100. The YTW-06 spins at a more reasonable 260 RPM (at 36V) so I can actually keep the pedals engaged—lightly—when the motor has reached its maximum RPM.want to build wrote: ↑Jun 01, 2018 9:27 pmHI when uo say that at top speed you were ghost pedaling with q100 i dont understand what you mean. do you mean the bike was going so fast that you did not have enough gears to add power? is why are you not ghost pedalling with de ytw since it goes faster than the q100?
I'm really interested in hearing your thoughts on the faster geared motor, and your impression of the motor generally. I'm new to hub motors, so I don't have a lot to compare the YTW-06 to.
You mean ultra-light GEARED hub motor ? Because a direct-drive motor will always be 4Kg+... or rather anemic!
The big difference is the location of the freewheeling clutch: in the G310, it seems to be located between the ring gear and the hub shell (top right of the pic) - difficult to say based on this picture. That would be a much better position, since it would cut off the entire reduction + motor during coasting, and should be a lot less draggy. Can someone who owns this motor confirm ?
Wow! That explains so much. I was wondering why the clutch remained so stiff. The fact that it is located on the rotor explains a lot.qwerkus wrote: ↑Jun 26, 2018 5:41 pmIf anyone is interested, there is a thread about this motor in a german forum, with many details, including internals:
It appears that the freewheel is actually located INSIDE THE ROTOR, which means when you're coasting, you're still driving the 2 stage reduction gears.