Firedog wrote: ↑
Mar 12, 2018 12:57 pm
After careful comparision, both boards are the same. The outside label is 2016xxx for the ones that work without the 5 wire LED display and 2017xxx for ones that must have the the display.
Looks like there's a number of other markings on the PCBs themselves, but only one number is different between them: YJ P45 for the older, and YJ P77 for the newer. At a guess this is the revision number, but it could be the model number. These are also on different sides of the PCB for each one.
There is another that is identical between them, and is probably the basic controller model, EB09A1-R01
Most likely this just means E Bike 9FET, what the A1-R01 means dn't know, but could be the hardware revision.
I couldn't find anything relevant on any of the numbers partial or complete in any searches here or on google.
There is a small chance that this
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =2&t=27927
could be used to reprogram some of the stuff in the controller, but most likely not. It also requires a serial port on the controller PCB that you can attach a USB-serial adapter to. The four-pad area next ot the MCU might be one. Using any kind of programming s/w (even the right one) does have a chance of bricking a controller, so beware.
The 36v and 48V model 810 LED displays use the same pcb board and processor, but have about a dozen resistor different. I measured the current draw of the a 36v display. A 330 ohm reisistor on the Bat+ line cuts a 54v batteries voltage to ~36V. With that, the 36v (810) will run with a 54v battery, but as the LEDs go on and off, the current will change and it would never work in practice.
If you look at the area around the 78M05 5v regulator
in the lower right corner of the boards (as oriented in the pics posted), there will be resistors that are different between the two voltage versions, most likely creating a voltage divider on the input of the 78M05 that supplies it with just the right input voltage so it doesn't blow up at the higher voltage. (these parts can only normally take only about 30-35v on the input, and the higher the voltage the hotter they get).
So you might be able to put a set of switches on the back of teh case that switches between the two voltages.
The LED meter is also going toh ave differnet resistors between the two, so unless you also change those when changing battery voltage, it'll read wrong on the one it's not made for.
Side note: there are at least two kinds of LED display; the 810 and the 890, according to this
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... D#p1293921
and they work differently. The 890 uses a serial connection to the controller, so it'd be difficlut to override.
BUt that post says the 810 is analog, so you could override it with a resistive voltage divider and set of switches to give the different PAS levels, and run the bike without it. I don't know which wires on teh output do what, but you could measure each one in different modes on a working bike to find out.
THere are a number of posts/threads about these LED displays, though I don't know how much detail there is or if any of it is useful:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/searc ... mit=Search
d8veh seems to know the most about them, so look thru his posts for info (he's also on pedelecs uk forum under the same name).
Can you suggest a controller that will work with a simple on/of and 30 to 60 volts.
There's a number of automatic-detection controllers that've been discussed on teh forums. I don't recall for certain the specific models, but I think they are teh S06x and S12x KT (Kunteng). Though at least some of them can have a problem if you power them up with a nearly empty 48v pack thinking they're actually a 36v pack and not shutting down like they should for the 48v pack, and/or with a freshly-charged 36v pack thinking it's a really low 48v pack and shutting down too early for the 36v pack.
Casainho has a thread for those specific controllers for custom firmware you can use to change how they work.
There are a number of multi-voltage controllers in the Items For Sale New (and probably Used) sections, though they are generally for high-power systems, not all of them are, though because of the other features they have tehy're probably not inexpensive.
I think the Greentime controllers thread towards the end discusses at least one multivoltage model, but it is not automatic--you have to either solder a jumper in there, or run the wires out to a switch or set of connectors. IIRC Markz posted pics of it's insides there.